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Pickups Mazda B-Series Mazda B Series
747 messages, Last post on Oct 23, 2009 at 10:23 PM
You are in the Mazda B-Series Forum. Your Host is kcram
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| I cannot remember who but I have seen somebody's post saying something about a more efficient engine when they changed to Mobile Synthetic for their oil. I am due for an oil change and I might try it out. I was just wondering any feedback on certain oils that either help gas mileage or engine efficiency. Thanks. | |
| Yes, that would be me. I ran Pennzoil in my '99 B3000 for the first 10K miles. Then I switched over to Mobil1 Synthetic (10w-30). Out of all the modifications I have done to the truck (added a KKM True Rev induction kit and recently a catback exhaust), I would have to say that switching to the synthetic oil produced the best results. The engine runs a bit smoother and seems to produce a few less RPMs for a given gear/speed combination. I guess these fewer RPMs all add up because I also have seen a solid 1.0 MPG increase. The truck is now getting a consistent 21.x MPG in all purpose driving around the Tucson area. My last tank netted 21.5 MPG. Not bad for a 4WD vehicle. I would recommend giving it a try. Keep in mind that if you have it serviced, it is more expensive. But part of the cost can be offset with fewer oil changes. I have heard that it is perfectly safe to extend the mileage out to 4K between changes with the synthetic. That works out to 3 changes per year as opposed to 4 with the standard oil. Just my .02 cents... | |
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This is for those that might be looking at either a used model similar to this or thinking of purchasing a new Mazda. I have 62K on the truck. Fit and finish is still good, even with it parked outside all the time. Extra cab is very handy and the jump seats are great for use in a pinch but admittedly I'm not comfortable having the kids back there. 5 spd tranny is fine but the 4 cylinder doesn't cut it. Maybe the weight of the truck is too much for it and hopefully the B2500's are a whole lot better. Unloaded it drives okay on the freeways etc but moderate hills, wind, etc. means that there is no passing etc. and the need for keeping my eyes on the rear view mirrors. I would strongly recommend the 4 litre V-6. Only electrical problem is the "Check Engine Light" that stays on. Had a sensor replaced at 40k and a bolt from the front caliper came off at 35k. Aside from fluid changes, it has been a very reliable vehicle and handy for the lil' chores around the house. |
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| Thanks for the info. I might give it a try. | |
| I have a B 3000 that has 10,000 miles on it, and was surprised when I took it in for the 6,000 mile oil & lube and the dealer recommended cleaning the fuel injectors with a flush. Their could have been some other little checks with the total being somewhere around 50 dollars over a typical oil and lube job. Question: do these little extras help performance and longevity of the truck or just nice add ons for the dealers garage. I assume if you stick what is in the manual you should be ok. | |
| Environmental factors (i.e. dust, temp. etc) need to be factored but following the recommended schedule in the manual should suffice. Oil changes and filters can be done more frequently if you like. Periodically, I will fill the tank with premium. Doing the injectors at 6k means needing to look for another garage. Case in point, I took our Expedition in for an alignment at 27k and the tire center was recommending my putting in new shocks to replace the "crummy" originals. Only when I mentioned that the vehicle was still under warranty and that I'll share that concern when I take it into Ford did the pressure to replace them cool. I won't be returning to that tire center for anything other than the cheapest price on tires but no additional work. That is one of the reasons I miss the Fedco auto service centers. You didn't get the pressure to purchase services that were not needed. | |
| I see a few comments indicating the addition of a K&N "filter charger" kit. Is this different from a K&N air filter (that fits into the standard box)? If not, can someone tell me what this involves and how much it costs? thanks | |
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Yes, "filter charger" or "induction" kits are different than the various replacement filters that fit into your air box. In fact, these kits actually replace the air box itself. They are simple to install and all of the sensors remain in place. They cost approx $100 and require cleaning every 20K-30K miles. I've got a KKM True Rev induction kit on my '99 B3000. I like it. It seems to help the engine breath easier. It even sounds different. Some claim that it helps their MPG. I didn't notice an MPG difference after I installed mine. Check out this link for more info on the KKM: www.kustomz.com These induction kits also fit B-Series trucks and are available for 4 and 6 bangers... |
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My husband owns a 94 Mazda B300 with 117,000 trouble-free miles (and I mean COMPLETELY trouble-free other than routine oil, tire and brake changes). We just had new brakes put on - the whole job, rotors, pads, etc. - we brought it in because the ABS and brake lights were on. Well, brakes are now fixed and working fine, but the shop can't get the lights on the dash to go off. They tell us the truck needs to be hooked up to a "scope" and only a Mazda dealer can do this - at the cost of about $75.00. If the problem is, say a censor with the ABS - we're looking at a $300 bill - or there about - to fix it. Any idea why we can't get the lights on the dash to go off? Do you really think we should take it to the dealer and spend the money to get the problem (assuming it's minor) fixed or should we just let the lights stay on (will that hurt the truck?). Even the garage was clueless as to why the lights are still on. Your comments and suggests are welcome! Thanks |
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| I had a problem similar to this in my previous truck ('90 Chevy 1/2 ton). The ABS/brake light was on solid for no apparent reason. I took it to the dealer twice ($100 a pop). Both times, they ran diagnostics and could not find any trouble. They reset the sensor and the light would be off for a little while, then mysteriously come back on. They never did get the problem resolved. But the brakes seemed to work fine, so I eventually got one of those simley face stickers and put it over the ABS/brake light because I got tired of looking at the darn thing. I don't know if this was the smartest thing to do, but I got tired of paying good money only to get a "no trouble found" response. I suspect it was just a sensitive or flakey sensor. Leaving it in that state did not seem to cause any trouble. Can't tell what to do here. But if it were my truck, and I was POSITIVE that the brakes were working properly, I might opt for the smiley face. They're much cheaper than those dealer prices... | |
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