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644 messages,  Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 10:43 AM

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#590 of 644 Re: delayed Start 1994 SE-V6 HB PU 4x4 [lralston01] by lralston01 Feb 02, 2009 (9:08 pm)
Replying to: lralston01 (Feb 01, 2009 12:53 pm) So today I talked to a guy I work with that used to be mechanic at nissan, and he said its common for some bushing or something to wear out because when it engages the starter it arcs and that causes it to wear away, and one way to tell if this is happening is to quickly keep trying to start the vehicle, and that will make the brass (or copper or whatever it is) piece to slip a bit farther down and let it make contact and start, then I would know it was my starter. So I tried this on my truck, but just my luck not a damn thing happened, so I figured what the hell I'll take my starter off one more time even though he said it was good 6 months ago, and have it tested again. It was every bit the b!7(# I remember, 1.5 hours later its out and I'm on my way to Advance Auto, where as luck would have it the starter did nothing! So now I know that the starter was bad, but I'll have to wait until tomorrow to install it to see if I still have the dead battery symptom at startup, if so then i'm taking it to nissan because that could be what killed the starter, if not then I know it was the problem.
#591 of 644 95 V6 KC Backup light, Steering asmbly, Timing belt change by colohunter Feb 05, 2009 (7:34 am)
I've owned this truck 11 years and have about 300,000 miles on it.   A few questions for my fellow Nissan Truck afficianados   I Changed the transfer case a couple of years ago. At that time I made sure the reverse sensor switch on the tranny was in working order but my Backup lights just won't work - or they'll work for a microsecond when I put it in reverse, then go out. What to do??? I thought the little piston on the sensor wasn't long enough but I compared it to replacement switches and they're the same. Any advice???   Next - I'm getting ready to replace the timing belt - how do I know when my motor is on Top Dead Center??? Any ideas about immobilizing the cam and drive shafts before I remove the old belt???   Also, I heard that removing the lower drive shaft pully is part of the job and that it's a real bitch to remove - any truth to this?   Lastly, my steering seems kinda loose sometime - especially when I'm on asphalt highway with ruts and when I jack it up it's easy to move the front wheels right to left. Is it loose? Remember the age of this thing. Or is it suppose to be a little loose so there's less wear and tear when your 4-wheeling?   Thanks   G-Man Replies to this message: asa (Feb 05, 2009 3:44 pm)
#592 of 644 Re: 95 V6 KC Backup light, Steering asmbly, Timing belt change [colohunter] by asa Feb 05, 2009 (3:44 pm)
Replying to: colohunter (Feb 05, 2009 7:34 am) As for the back-up lights, disconnect the switch and put an ohmmeter on the switch leads. If the switch is good, you ought to see the meter move as you shift into and out of reverse. No need to run the engine of course.
#593 of 644 Peculiar problem by SinSater Feb 08, 2009 (5:31 pm)
I am once again experiencing a problem that i believe that I had experienced about two years (winters) ago. I have a 1990 hardbody that after sitting for about 3 months It failed to start as it usually starts instantly. I discovered feul pressure and spark was being supplied but didn't have time to investigate further as I needed to move it to my new place of residence. I towed it to there where it sat through the winter when my GF went out to move it forgetting that it had a problem. It started right up and ran throughout the summer until now. The truck has sat through a couple of the coldest months this winter on the street. I went out to start it and the same symptoms exist! If anyone has some insight on what this failure may be PLEEEEZ feel free to respond.   Thanx in advance,   Ron Replies to this message: colohunter (Feb 09, 2009 10:23 am)
#594 of 644 Re: Peculiar problem [SinSater] by colohunter Feb 09, 2009 (10:23 am)
Replying to: SinSater (Feb 08, 2009 5:31 pm) So let me git this straight - it wont start when it's cold out - really cold and has sat for a while?   Maybe you have frozen water in the fuel line - when it warms up above freezing for a couple of days - add some "Heet" and try it - "Heet" is nothing but pure methanol which "chases" the water - actually makes it soluble in the gas. If it starts, burn up the whole tank of gas and ass fresh gas with another can of heet
#595 of 644 1995 Nissan p/u ignition/start problem by byrd2 Feb 27, 2009 (8:09 am)
Ok,   So I replaced the timing chain on this 1995 Nissan KA24E engine, and made sure it was aligned before I put the cover back on. But it won't start. Turns over just fine. Compression is good and first stroke it's 120, but pumps up to 170-180 PSI on all cylinders. All plugs are firing white spark, and I did have to replace the fuel in the tank, as it soured. Fuel pressure is good at 50 psi. Even with a tooth off, I still should get some sounds of fire, right? So could it be that the injectors need cleaning, since the fuel was old, and turned bad? Or could it be that the MASS Airflow Sensor, or the camshaft position sensor is bad? Or even the ECM is bad. It may be that the injectors are not in time with the spark, which would make sense, as it's gettting plenty of fire, and just sounds like it is not getting any fuel. But I even tried a can of starting fluid to get it to 'pop' and run, so I can finish setting the timing correctly. Can the engine be started in the default or self-diagonsis mode on the ECM? This is the same problem it had before I replaced the timing chain. Over the summer, it started because I moved the distributor slightly. But it had no power, which made me believe the main trouble was a stretched timing chain. As I found out during replacement of the timing chain, parts of the plastic guide were in the oil pan. So it needed to be replaced anyway. But it still won't start up and run. Any ideas out there?   Mike Replies to this message: ggann (Feb 27, 2009 4:04 pm) byrd2 (Feb 27, 2009 6:28 pm)
#596 of 644 Re: 1995 Nissan p/u ignition/start problem [byrd2] by ggann Feb 27, 2009 (4:04 pm)
Replying to: byrd2 (Feb 27, 2009 8:09 am) I have 1993 4wd nissan truck with same engine. I too had to replace timming chain guide. To make a long story short, I eventually found that all four of the injector pulses to be too long and the engine would not go over 2700 rpm. No bad codes were on the computor so I disconnected the 0-2 sensor to generate one. That was 16 months ago and the engine has not started since. I never got back to the original problem was and bought a 1996 Ford ranger with 190,000 miles. It starts and runs but is 2 wheel drive. I would love to get the nissan going again so I could give to one of our 11 grandchildren. I just don't trust anyone to fix it without them just replacing every part in the engine sensor area. One local mechanic just had to give up. Good Luck Grandpa Gary Replies to this message: byrd2 (Feb 27, 2009 6:28 pm)
#597 of 644 Re: 1995 Nissan p/u ignition/start problem [ggann] by byrd2 Feb 27, 2009 (6:28 pm)
Replying to: ggann (Feb 27, 2009 4:04 pm) Thanks for the info and greetings Grandpa Gary. I guess I may try 2-car pros.com for advice, and maybe they would email me how to check the sensors, if they respond. I was able to download the Factory Service Manual for the 1996 Nissan Truck, and it does explain a little bit on how to see if the mass air flow sensor is sending too high, or too low a signal to the ECM. Which that signal is used to adjust the pulse to the fuel injector. If the mass airflow sensor seems to check OK, I may be able to bypass it somehow, or maybe check to see if it is getting hot. That's how the thing works. It senses the amount of current needed to maintain a certain temp of the element, and the more air you have flowing accross it, the more current needed to keep it at the same temp. Maybe it is not sensing any flow at all, as the passage on this one is on the side of the throttle body, and not in the direct path of the air intake piping, like most normal cars are. Hmm, I may have something there. The injectors may also need to be pulled and cleaned, somehow. As it did have the fuel go bad, and smelled a little gumed up. Seems like this engine was not the best one they came out with at all. It doesn't trouble shoot well.   Mike
#598 of 644 93 Nissan intermittent miss by mkahl Mar 14, 2009 (12:45 pm)
I have a 93 nissan pickup, 4 cyl. fuel injection It runs fantastic except for when I start through the gears, it hesitates, sputters a bit then goes. It seems to do it at the same RPM each time. Less noticable when it is warm but still there. It also loses power when it does this. It will also do the same thing at cruising speed; going along just fine, then start to miss, sputter, lose power then work itself out of it. Compression checks are perfect. Flying colors on emission testing. I've replaced the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires.....even the distributor itself. It can sit for months and start right up. I've put enough injector cleaner through it to choke a horse. I haven't changed the coil or injectors. Am I missing any componants?? If I can get this fixed, I'd have a really nice little 4x4!! Replies to this message: colohunter (Mar 16, 2009 7:26 am)
#599 of 644 Re: 93 Nissan intermittent miss [mkahl] by colohunter Mar 16, 2009 (7:26 am)
Replying to: mkahl (Mar 14, 2009 12:45 pm) I had a similar problem - tried a lot of things before I got it fixed - changed fuel pump and fuel filters, changed coil, distributor, rotor, plugs, wires, air mass flow sensor, temperature sensor ...... So many things - finally figured it out with the help of a Vietnamese mechanic - the shaft coming off the motor that drives the distributor had to be replaced, it's the whole unit under the distributor cap and rotor. After I got that fixed it is great. While it was doing that, it ruined my transfer case!!!!!   Probably spent 2 grand before I figured it out.   Good luck!!

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