Last post on Sep 26, 2011 at 7:42 AM
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#1313 of 1320 Audi Q7 Canister
Feb 19, 2011 (8:17 pm)
I just started work in a service center. Today an Audi Q7 with a V6 came into my work for an oil change. I found the oil filter on the driver side of the motor about half way up. After finding the oil filter I notice a soft line running directly bellow the cap. It moved around a little but not enough to clear the canister cap and filter.
I got the cap loose using a 36 mill socket and extension, but I was unable to pull it all the way out. After playing with the hose I could only pull it out about a half inch. I asked a senior tech to show me how to remove it. Unfortunately he had no experience with these cars either. While trying to work the cap around the hose the tech broke the internal retainer tube on the cap that holds the filter. We then had to go to Audi and buy a new cap and refund the service.
Once i was back under the car, I figured out that I could work the filter into the housing and then maneuver the cap onto it and snap them together. Unfortunately I cant do this during removal because I cant separate them untill they are off the car.
Had anyone experienced this problem and do you have a good technique for removal
#1314 of 1320 Re: The biggest mistake on oil drain plugs [micweb]
Sep 01, 2011 (9:40 pm)
> That's why I only go to dealers now, and try to use the same dealer consistently. They still make mistakes, but they will replace the oil pan if the thing gets stripped.
how to get them to replace the oil pan. Here is my situation, I used only
one shop to change my oil, it was fine for a few year, then this time aug31, 2011, they informed me the oil pan thread worn out??? (at first, they blamed
the previous oil change person to damage the thread, but then I let them know that last time I did change oil here (as well as the previous two oil changes as I still had paper work in my car. Then, they changed the tone saying that because of the pan made of aluminium, so it is worn out. I did
not have money to have the oil pan change, so the shop suggested to
use oil drain oversize plug temporarily. I had no choice but let it done that way. IT WAS FIRESTONE store in Milpitas, CA. I knew their previous tech did overtighten it and damage the thread. So if anybody has any ideas on
how to put a complaint on FIRESTONE, please let me know. Also, please let me know is any way to fix the thread without changing oil pan. My car is
2001 Mazda Tribute V6, 94K miles. Thanks in advance.
#1315 of 1320 Re: Isell is on the right track... [wtd44]
Sep 01, 2011 (10:03 pm)
Could you help me by letting me know where to get a drain plug repair/replacement kit for my car 2001 Mazda Tribute V6 DX (the plug size
is 12 (hole) 1.75 (thread) as it was told) Mine was tripped by the FIRESTONE
tech while doing oil change for me (i did do the oil change in one store few
years for my car - now they made mistake and did nothing about that by
saying wear and tear as my oil pan is aluminum so the thread is worn out.
I knew previously the tech did over-torqued (sp?)/overtighten it)
If the thread is able to fix without changing oil pan, it is much appreciated.
Also if anyone know how to send a complaint to FIRESTONE head quarter,
please let me know.
Thank in advance
#1316 of 1320 Re: Isell is on the right track... [maria_tu]
Sep 02, 2011 (7:29 am)
They make an expansion-type oil pan drain plug. It's a bolt/nut/washer combination that sandwiches a piece of rubber between them. You put the bolt & rubber piece (one assembly) into the drain hole and just tighten up on the exposed nut. That draws up the washer on the inside of the ribber piece, which then expands the rubber and seals the hole.
Kind of hokey, but it works.
#1317 of 1320 Re: EXPERT ADVICE REQUESTED ASAP FERRARI OIL LEVELS AND WEIGHTS [mbowen1989]
Sep 25, 2011 (11:58 pm)
Whenever I read forums on oil changes, I never hear anyone mention the other important thing after changing your oil when it is warm; priming the oil filter. More damage is done to an engine in that first 15 seconds that an engine is started after an oil change. All that fresh oil is sitting in the crankcase, waiting to be drawn into the pump. When that engine is cranked, all the crankshaft journals, all the springs, valves, camshafts and other parts that need to stay lubricated are dry! Those few seconds of dry turning are destroying those bearings. Always remember to take a few minutes to pour oil into the filter first. Since the filter has a back-flow stopper, you need to pour a little, let it fill, pour some more, let it fill, ect. Most filters will take up to a half a quart in them. Since that is done, now oil can get to the pump almost immediately, since the filter is usually the closest thing to the oil pump. When re-installing the filter, turn until you can feel the o-ring touching the filter, then turn it just about 1/8th of a turn more. You don't want the filter too tight. Finally, if the car has a turbocharger, it is important after driving it to let it idle for a minute to give the oil a chance to continue to lube the turbo as the blades slow down. This isn't a problem in a supercharger, because it runs on crankshaft motion.
#1318 of 1320 Re: EXPERT ADVICE REQUESTED ASAP FERRARI OIL LEVELS AND WEIGHTS [eddiewax]
Sep 26, 2011 (6:48 am)
Good advice. But that doesn't work if your filter is mounted sideways or even further past horizontal.
#1319 of 1320 Worthless advice regarding the turbo
Sep 26, 2011 (7:11 am)
Letting a turbocharged engine idle for a minute prior to shutdown is simply a waste of fuel in 99% of the cases. That said, if you've been blasting down the highway at high speeds and quickly stop in for a tank of gas, then yes, letting the engine idle for thirty seconds or so is a very good idea.
#1320 of 1320 Re: Worthless advice regarding the turbo [shipo]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Sep 26, 2011 (7:42 am)
that's my read on modern turbos...just ignore cool down unless you have just come off a freeway ramp at 80 mph in 100 degree heat...in other words, extreme situations.