Last post on May 21, 2013 at 8:32 PM
You are in the Prices Paid - Buying & Leasing Experiences
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Audi A6, Sedan, Wagon
#657 of 670 2007 Audi A6 3.2 4D Price
Jan 10, 2011 (2:00 pm)
Considering buying 2007 Audi A6 3.2 4D with 60K miles for $24K. I know I'll need the extended warranty so I'll prob add $2k to the price. The Car is loaded
* Premium Package
* Convenience Package
* Navigation System
* Leather Seats
* Front Seat Heaters
Just worried about the high miles. Is this a decent buy?
Mar 03, 2011 (5:35 pm)
I'm looking at a CPO 2010 Audi A6 4dr Sdn FrontTrak 3.2L Premium Plus, 10,000 miles. The dealer asked for $39,700. Is it a fair price? Thanks.
#659 of 670 2012 A6 Pricing
Dec 13, 2011 (11:50 am)
Not a lot of info on pricing for purchasing a 2012. I am looking at a 2012 dakota/blk prestige with 20" sport package, innovation, and cold weather with MSRP at $66,680. What discounts are people seeing from dealers off MSRP?
#660 of 670 Re: 2012 A6 Pricing [justin12]
Dec 18, 2011 (3:25 am)
After reading C&D and CR on the new A6 and had received a card with incentive to test drive the new 2012 A6, I decided to give it a try. I was impressed with the car and the handling and its supercharged engine. The only blemish I could detect is the light steering feel, although you do feel the road, but it simply was a bit too light for me. Being a BMW person, I was very surprised with this car. The sales manager readily mentioned the $2,000 incentive after inquiring the car I am driving and my intention to buy, not to lease. He would give $1,000 for leasing. Then the salesman mentioned to me on the side that they would give good price for end of year buyers. From my yesterday's experience, I would say you could get at least $3,000 off the MSRP.
#661 of 670 Moneypit pricing & strategy ASAP
Jan 09, 2012 (8:25 am)
Re-categorizing for hopefully better focussed replies. Please see some "strategy" questions at end.
'03 Audi A6 2.7T QT SDN 39,000mi of elderly parnts. Single Audi/Lexus dealer w/n ~170mi. $45K pd new. Want dlr take back moneypit, then get CR-reliable car. Suggestions re audi strategy?
~$5000 Lifetime repairs pd to-date [incl replacing I/O tie rod assembly, ignition coils, torsen differential seal, door lock switches, O sensor, coolant & exhaust temp sensors, aux water pump, eng shield hardware, chain tensioner seals, rr cam plugs, fr axle differential seal, valve cover gasket, emerg flasher switch, battery (2nd x) and brake light switch].
~$6300 + tx in ADDITIONAL repairs "recommended" Dec '11 but now deferred [including replacing fr brake pads/rotors (2nd x)), pan gasket and engine rr main seal, lt fr drive axle & CV boot (2nd boot), rt ft axle shaft seal, shifter assembly for reverse light, and rr rotors].
~$3000 + tx in MORE ADDITIONAL repair (dealer's analysis but not currently "recommended") : replace valve seal guides (after 2 induction services for exhaust smoke on startup). Therefore, ~$10,000 imminent/future repairs!!!
Thank you for any feedback esp re strategy/tactic questions, such as e.g. :
1) what top dollar could be demanded back from dealer if assume car were in excellent condition so p's weren't punished for car's lemony history?
2) do you agree the repair history/imminent future is outrageous given mileage (used in se-sw US)?
(3) Using the purchase price paid & repairs paid/to be paid over 9 years, the car's monthly "lease" rate would've been ~$460/mo. Do you know how that would compare with a real lease rate (eg for 5 years, no loan, most favorable terms for lessee)?
(4) Would it be better to use for trade-in for new Lexus from this dealer which, with clean slate & no exhaust smoke, could be further traded for a CR-reliable/safe, etc car like Honda? Thanx for help.
#662 of 670 Money Pit ?????
Jan 09, 2012 (9:13 am)
You should be thanking your lucky stars that you have a 10 year old auto with $170K miles and 'ONLY" spent $5K for repairs/maintenance.
You can spend $5K on just 10K, 15K and 25K scheduled maintenance and forget about the cost on maintenance once you get over 40-50K.
If you think that it's a "moneypit", then use it for a trade and take your $1K (maybe) and get another car.
#663 of 670 Re: Money Pit ????? [dssxxxx]
Jan 09, 2012 (10:29 am)
Just to clarify -- the car has only 39,000 mi on it now (there is only one dealer w/in ~170,000 mi radius). The nature of the repairs already paid for (~$5000), together with the nature of the impending repairs (~$10,000) is the nub of the question. But thank you.
BTW, comparing Audi repair mileage to our '93 Honda Accord Ex manual, on several repairs, so much for Audi's high performance:
New battery Audi 16K & 39K but Honda 46K and 94K.
New rear brake pads Audi 18K & 37K but Honda 76K
New front brake pads Audi 20K & 39K but Honda 88K
#664 of 670 Re: Money Pit ????? [4moneypit]
Jan 09, 2012 (10:54 am)
170 miles would force me to find a dealer that repairs Audi's. There has to one close unless you live in the woods or desert......
But, even with 39K, $5K on expense's is cheap for an A6, especially 10 years old. There is something called yearly maintenance that should be done no matter the mileage.
But it's your car.....I do not put Audi's and Honda's in the same class but that is just me.
#665 of 670 2013 A6 Money Factor and Residual
Feb 25, 2013 (4:43 pm)
I'm wondering what the Money Factor and the Residual are for: (i) 36mo lease at 12k miles/year; and (ii) 42mo lease at 12k miles/year. My credit would be top tier.
I'd lease by the end of this month 2/13, if they can find the build out that I want.
Thanks in advance.
#666 of 670 Re: 2013 A6 Money Factor and Residual [ebod]
Mar 05, 2013 (9:58 pm)
I think you have the wrong thread.
This question probably belongs in leasing an A6 even though the first requirement to getting a good lease is agreeing to the best purchase price for the car.
I am surprised that there is not too much feedback in this thread on recent prices paid on A6s.