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Mazda RX-8 Problems and Solutions - READ ONLY

1414 messages,  Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 9:17 AM

You are in the Mazda RX-8 Forum. Your Host is claires

What is this discussion about? Mazda RX-8, Coupe


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#1355 of 1414
Re: twin turbo [trispec] by pathstar1
Aug 17, 2006 (6:18 am)

Replying to: trispec (Aug 17, 2006 3:06 am)

Just to underline what Mr Shiftright opined, if you purchased a used 3rd gen RX-7, you'd get 325 HP (what mine is running - in conservative tune), and torque increase starting at 2000 RPM. In a 2800 lb car. They go for $15,000 for a nice one these days.
 
And just to underline what I opined above, a few days ago I "tested" my cat. converter - to do this you open the throttle and watch the boost gauge to see the second turbo transition. A plugged cat. will prevent this from happening. Went from 70 km/hr to 160 km/hr (100 MPH) in 4 or 5 sec. - on a road with a limit of 80 km/hr. That's jail, isn't it, or at least a mandatory appearance before a judge?
Just what we all need, a race car on the street!
Oh, and the cat is working fine.
#1356 of 1414
Re: twin turbo [pathstar1] by trispec
Aug 17, 2006 (9:03 am)

Replying to: pathstar1 (Aug 17, 2006 6:18 am)

Wow, not that I can really appreciate the full experience of 325 HP and real torque at 2000RPM. What kind of engine life would one expect out of a used TT RX-7 at $15K. Is that a re-built rotary 13B. Are 13B's expensive to re-build?
#1357 of 1414
Re: twin turbo [trispec] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Aug 17, 2006 (9:41 am)

Replying to: trispec (Aug 17, 2006 9:03 am)

I think rotaries in general need a higher standard of maintenance than most Americans are capable of, but if you DO that maintenance, they can be very reliable and rewarding.
#1358 of 1414
Re: twin turbo [trispec] by pathstar1
Aug 17, 2006 (3:07 pm)

Replying to: trispec (Aug 17, 2006 9:03 am)

The 3rd gen engine is highly stressed - so much so that the heat it generates boils the coolant in the rotor housings, forming tiny bubbles in the coolant.
On other forums the reliability is discussed a lot. General consensus is the 3rd gen engines last 100,000 mi if not abused by sloppy mods for extra power. Rebuilts don't last as long - perhaps 50,000 mi if done right. A Mazda rebuilt is $3000 or so from the "best sources". Expect another $1000-$2000 for installation (labour, new parts such as hoses, etc.). Don't forget the turbos! They will last perhaps about the same, though many say half as long. They cost $2500 or so for the set.
 
If you do it yourself, it can cost as little as $1000 to rebuild a rotary, but it is more typical to approach $2000. It's not hard to do, as there are few parts. Lots of measurements to check though. If the rotor housing is worn or the chrome surface damaged, you just buy a new one or a good used one. Ditto for the rotor. The apex, side, and corner seals as well as the gasket set and sealant are the common parts all rebuilds need.
 
Just so you don't panic, the last "normally aspirated" rotaries, the 2nd gen RX-7s, have engine life averaging 200,000+ mi. The second gen turbo engines averaged about the same as the 3rd gen.
 
Moral is, "If you want to play, you have to Pay!"
#1359 of 1414
Re: twin turbo [pathstar1] by trispec
Aug 18, 2006 (2:57 am)

Replying to: pathstar1 (Aug 17, 2006 3:07 pm)

I remember my dad having the 70HP engine in his 1965 VW bug rebuilt for $250 back in 1972. So a $1,000 here in 2006 to re-build a 200HP rotary seems very reasonable.
 
Is the Renesis built with significantly more expensive parts? The rotors are lighter, but are they of some exotic material or machining?
#1360 of 1414
Re: twin turbo [trispec] by pathstar1
Aug 18, 2006 (6:24 am)

Replying to: trispec (Aug 18, 2006 2:57 am)

As far as I know, the engine design is very similar parts wise. Rotors are still cast steel. They've redone the internal "bracing", and that, I think, is how they lightened them. Maybe they are using new casting technology. Those rebuilding the older rotaries are starting to use the renesis parts, because they are more "evolved" (better) - apex seals for example. So I don't think there is any real change cost wise (other than the standard inflation). The funny part is rotor housings for the older engines were in short supply because Mazda's casting plant was overbooked making renesis rotor housings.
 
Having an engine suddenly become popular again is not all good.
#1361 of 1414
Clutch by moadh
Aug 19, 2006 (11:16 pm)
I have a 2004 MT RX-8.. im at around 44,000km now and the clutch is still quite healthy (although there seems to be a little vibrating action going on lately). I understand that a clutch's life depends on how driver handles it, but in approximate measure.. how much longer can the clutch survive? also, is there anything else besides the wheel, cover, and bearing that i need to replace the clutch?
#1362 of 1414
Re: Its a shame this car has so many problems. [slingshot80] by slingshot80
Aug 23, 2006 (8:28 pm)

Replying to: slingshot80 (Jul 21, 2006 5:58 pm)

Now they are recalling all the 2004s, 2005s and some of the 2006s for new engines if they don't pass a vacuum test. Hopefully the new engines will not be s
#1363 of 1414
Re: Clutch slipping? [pathstar1] by articist
Aug 28, 2006 (11:44 pm)

Replying to: pathstar1 (Aug 07, 2006 7:28 am)

Thanks pathstar for the reply as always. To report the progress and for another question: I was going to bring my car to the dealer 3 weeks ago, but the guy from the service told me to make sure I can replicate the phenomenon at will. Otherwise, my trip would be worthless. The fact was that some days I couldn't really feel the vibration. Then I remembered somebody telling me if I can scratch the tires, the clutch is healthy. I wasn't trying to scratch the tires but one day from a slight uphill, I did. So I was waiting to see more symptoms. I did notice when I feel the vibration there was a slight decline of power.
 
A couple of days ago, at one point when the engine was warm, starting took a couple more seconds than usual. Remembering one of the threads on this board about starting warm engine, I thought it was nothing to worry about. But finally today, I encountered the real problem. I managed to start the warm engine, but immediately RPM got down to 5~600 and the car vibrated. Check engine light flashed, too. I reved the engine and somehow engine RPM settled to normal range and I was able to drive it away. However, check engine light stayed on. While driving it home, a couple of times I could feel the loss of power with light flashing. Each time I reved the engine and the car ran okay. I tried to keep the RPM high with lower gears. Now there is no question I will have to bring the car in, but can you tell what the problem is from this description?
#1364 of 1414
Re: Clutch slipping? [articist] by pathstar1
Aug 29, 2006 (6:26 am)

Replying to: articist (Aug 28, 2006 11:44 pm)

Many possibilities. Could be a bad coil. It's still on warrenty so I wouldn't be too concerned.

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