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Mazda RX-8 Care & Maintenance

103 messages,  Last post on Oct 25, 2009 at 5:17 AM

You are in the Mazda RX-8 Forum. Your Host is claires

What is this discussion about? Mazda RX-8, Auto Body, Engine, Fuel System, Interior, Oil, Paint, Coupe


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#43 of 103
Re: Air Filters [zoomrx8] by murfbear
Jun 11, 2006 (10:53 pm)
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Replying to: zoomrx8 (Apr 22, 2004 9:39 am)

I am looking for a new air cleaner weather it be OEM or performance, but so far all I can find is Cold Air Intake Kits that require you to remove one of the covers that conceal the engine, and costs about up to $330.00 or so and add another 10-15 HP. I would like to find a airfilter Oem or performance, Airaid,K&N,Green Etc would be fine. Any Web site where I can find?
#44 of 103
have a question about fuel additives.... by lhess
Jul 03, 2006 (10:12 am)
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this was addressed in a thread in another popular rx8 forum, but it's hard to wade thru all the smarty-pants responses that go on over there.
 
My question is, Are there any fuel additives (like injector cleaners...) that should be used in our cars? Are there any advantages? Is there a risk of damaging anything? And, if there is something out there, what brand, what's best and how to use it effectively?
 
I know Pathstar can give us a good and KNOWLEDGEABLE answer and others here can as well. Thanks!
#45 of 103
Re: have a question about fuel additives.... [lhess] by pathstar1
Jul 03, 2006 (8:39 pm)
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Replying to: lhess (Jul 03, 2006 10:12 am)

I can only say that I've used Red Line injector cleaner. Did it work? Couldn't tell. Do I think it worked? I think I bought snake oil.
 
Think about the concentration of one container in a tank of gas (recommended use). The container holds what, 100 cc? In a fuel tank that holds 65 litres!
 
If you are having trouble with your injectors have a service tech. perform the "official" cleaning routine - they disconnect the fuel line and use the car to pump pure cleaner through the injectors. I had this done to a Chev. Suburban (work truck) once. I didn't notice any difference then either, but it was on the GM scheduled maintenance list.
 
My personal opinion - if you want proper injector service have them removed and send them to one of several places that clean and test them. This shouldn't be required until they are at least 10 yrs old and the car has 100,000 mi on it. Even then, don't bother unless you are having trouble.
#46 of 103
Thanks Pathstar..... by lhess
Jul 06, 2006 (5:21 am)
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I hadn't even thought of this issue with this car. I usually put the FI cleaners in my previous car with some regularity, but, as you said, they seemed to be snake oil in a bottle.
 
I'm not having problems, just wondering if there were any benefits for using these in a rotary. Thanks again!!
#47 of 103
Re: Synthetic Oil [nojets] by oldtimer2
Oct 02, 2006 (10:35 am)
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Replying to: nojets (May 11, 2004 8:54 pm)

The very thin 5W-20 oil the Mazda dealership puts in is already a blend of synthetic and petroleum oils because that is the only way the range of 5W to 20 can be achieved. This is a quote from a self proclaimed oil specialist on another forum. He also claimed that Mazda runs pure heaver (30W) synthetic oil in their cars in Europe.
 
Guess why Mazda requires thin 5W-20 oil in the USA....Because Ford needs the extra MPG rating from EPA that only a thinner oil will give them.
 
The rest of the story from Mazda dealers about synthetic oil is just just the uneducated thinking they can fool the smart owners some of the time. Every one knows who is dumb acting smart and who is smart, but being polite and acting dumb in the presence of dumb...hee,hee....to bad it is true !!!
#48 of 103
Re: Synthetic Oil [oldtimer2] by trispec
Oct 02, 2006 (12:55 pm)
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Replying to: oldtimer2 (Oct 02, 2006 10:35 am)

OK, I got the first two paragraphs just fine, but that last one blew me away, sorry. Was it that Abe Lincoln thing or was it the Nixon modified version about fooling all of the people all of the time?
 
Bottom line, research into oil blends is a requirement for owning and RX-8?
 
Wasn't there a Mazda TSB about 30W oil causing problems not over heating but the flow of oil was reduced through the pump, therefore the apex sealing was not as good. When apex sealing isn't good more carbon builds up to block intakes.
#49 of 103
Re: Synthetic Oil [trispec] by pathstar1
Oct 02, 2006 (8:40 pm)
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Replying to: trispec (Oct 02, 2006 12:55 pm)

It's the old argument that synthetic oil shouldn't be used in the rotary. "Perhaps, but I've been using it for (insert number of years/miles here) and have had no problems." The nervous will not use it. The adventerous will. The frugal wonder why. They reason "Normal" oil works just fine, and due to dillution it has to be changed frequently anyway, so what's the point of using much more expensive synthetic?
 
It's become a religion. No point in arguing it, just choose a side.
 
Oil -filters- are another matter entirely. Use the best one you can find! Bigger is also better, as long as it's constructed well.
#50 of 103
Plain ol' charging...... by flatpick
Nov 04, 2006 (11:33 am)
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I have about had it with this car!!
 
All I want to do is charge the battery.....or see if it can be charged....I look in manual & see nothing about procedure...I must be blind....someone please give the basics of charging the battery? I fear, with the quirks of this car; that at any point the whole thing might self implode because of its un-user friendly persona!! Nothing but trouble with it and dealer!!
#51 of 103
Re: Plain ol' charging...... [flatpick] by pathstar1
Nov 04, 2006 (2:15 pm)
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Replying to: flatpick (Nov 04, 2006 11:33 am)

If you have an inexpensive charger best to disconnect the -ve post and then charge. Be aware you will loose the radio presets and will probably have to "recalibrate" the electric power steering (procedure in owners manual - not a big deal - turn steering wheel all the way one way then all the way the other way then back to centre).
 
If you have a very nice charger just connect it and go ahead.
 
Reason for the "if" is a cheaper charger will be noisy, and that electrical noise can fry electronics. Even with the key off, most of the cars electronics is still connected to the battery.
 
Make sure the battery is up on fluid before you start, and leave the caps on the battery to reduce the chance a stray spark when you connect or disconnect will ignite the H2 produced. Best to connect without the charger plugged in and unplug the charger before disconnecting.
#52 of 103
Re: Plain ol' charging...... [pathstar1] by flatpick
Nov 04, 2006 (3:01 pm)
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Replying to: pathstar1 (Nov 04, 2006 2:15 pm)

Thanks so much.....I remove battery from car...I have a good charger.....I charged and reinstalled....got it cranked back up.....
 
I purch'd 10/03...2004 MT all options, 30K miles as of 10/06.....I love the handling and the high rev rotary....very disappointed with quality issues...emblems peeling up, finish flaking off interior accents, more recalls than I've ever had to deal with and PIA dealer visits. I don't have confidence in this car is the bottom line. It has issues every 6 months....recalls or failures...and the joy I get from the driving experience does not make up for the headaches I've encountered since purchase.
 
C-

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