Last post on Nov 03, 2013 at 12:02 PM
You are in the Mazda RX-8
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Mazda RX-8, Auto Body, Engine, Fuel System, Interior, Oil, Paint, Coupe
#126 of 131 Re: Oil Change Frequency [johncalifornia]
Oct 14, 2012 (6:10 pm)
"Once warmed up I'll keep the revs up, never going below 4K and usually between 5K and 8K. The best way to destroy a rotary is to lug it. Rotaries live to rev -- it's what the engine was designed for."
I was just reading through, trying to get any tips on taking care of my RX8 when I came across this. I'm 17 and bought an 06 rx8 last November. I parked the car through the winter to avoid rust and everything else and brought it out around March. Before Winter I drove it several times, glad to have a fast sweet ride to care for and work on. I drove it hard and fast and it ran like a champ. The following Spring i brought it out of the garage and drove it daily.. I've put about 10k on since then.
Over time it seems like the engine has been slowly losing power. I drove it hard, like it should be, for the first few months but then dumb judgement came to me and a began to cruise at about 3k rpms for fuel mileage. i know rotarys are one of a kind, but i never thought it'd hurt.. needless to say i was pretty p/od when i realized it didn't respond like it used to. i looked into the problem recently and figured it could be bad plugs, so i replaced them and it helped but not significantly.
Not to add ignorance to this or the stupid teenager stereotype but i raced an AT 90 something camaro with a 350'. Smoked it, noted ending at 135 mph in just a mile. recently i raced an 04 chevy impala. i lost, feeling clueless as to what the h*** couldve happened. also, one late night after changing plugs, i took it for a cruise, taking about 2 1/2 miles to reach 135.
Anyway after writing a novel and reading your comment, im frustrated with myself and sure that driving low rpms is the cause of my lack of power. I'm not searching for the power to race idiot drivers, i just want the power that i know belongs there. I called Mazda a few months back, wondering if they could diagnose a problem. My check engine light isn't on and apparently they can't give a diagnosis to an unknown problem without the light being on itself.
I'm sure you weren't prepared to give me a full diagnosis but i figured you might know what could be done to get this one of a kind car running again. If you have any info or just tips, I'd probably be the happiest kid in the world. Thanks a ton,
#127 of 131 reply to myself
Nov 04, 2012 (6:44 pm)
figured out the problem.. ignition coils went bad
ordering 4 new right now, let you know how it goes after installation
#128 of 131 Re: Mazda RX-8 Owners: Care & Maintenance [milm86]
Dec 24, 2012 (3:06 am)
Please keep your service & maintenace paperwork. Ensure that the compression is alway within tolerance, if it is low or you start to have problems with repeat trips to service, make sure they tell you exactly what is wrong and how they are going to fix it. But enjoy it, it is a nice ride....
#129 of 131 Re: reply to myself [rotary44]
by Claire@Edmunds HOST
Dec 24, 2012 (11:18 am)
Did it solve the problem?
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
#130 of 131 A founded quote
Oct 10, 2013 (7:09 am)
Mazda recommends 5W20 for North American RX8's and 5W30 everywhere else. Both are a fine choice. DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL. Mazda warns against this and will decline engine warranty if you use synthetics. This is because most synthetic oils are designed to reduce oil "burn-off" and since the rotary engine uses oil injection into the combustion chambers you NEED the oil to burn-off as cleanly as possible.
Older rotary engines had shorter life spans due mainly to apex and side seal wear, but the Renesis rotary of the RX8 should last you 200,000+ miles if properly cared for. This includes oil changes every 3000 miles. This includes preventing carbon build-up by running the engine to red-line frequently and/or taking long highway drives. This includes checking your oil levels every couple fuel tank-fulls and topping up as required. This includes warming up the motor a bit before driving and warming fully before pushing it past 4K - 6K RPM. This includes not shutting down the motor "cold" as it can cause flooding (which also thins the oils with gas). And NEVER let a rotary engine overheat. This will warp the rotor housing and bye-bye motor.
Rebuilds are not really any more expensive than piston engines provided the rotors and housings aren't damaged or warped. A simple rebuild can cost between $500 - $1000 plus removal/installation labor. A factory rebuilt motor sells for around $2000 the last time I checked...a good option if the original motor has damage or warpage.
I found this from a rotary mechanic....
#131 of 131 Re: underbody corrosion?? [shanew8869]
Nov 03, 2013 (12:02 pm)
Thanks for that informative post. I'm having the same problem, pinhole leak. Would you please tell me where you found that part, 14-7102, for $120? Thanks a lot.