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Coupes & Convertibles Chevrolet Corvette Chevrolet C6 Corvette
914 messages, Last post on Aug 30, 2008 at 6:54 PM
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I'm still interested in the GMPP topic, so let's not drop it all-together. But I'm now on mile 250 with my '07 coupe and wonder what folks found about breaking-in the C6. My dealer told me to break it in 'hard' -- literally, drive it hard and fast and then get the oil changed early -- say around 1k miles. but that's counter to everything I've ever read about breaking in cars. I think the oil change idea makes sense, but the 'hard' part is counter intuitive. Thoughts and stories are welcome.
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Replying to: toquinho (Sep 21, 2006 4:47 pm) The computer is stating that I have about 92% oil life remaining. Remember that the oil in the 07 Vette is Mobil 1 synthetic. Change it after 1,000 miles????? In my opinion your guy is living in the past. (Is he aware that the car is running on Mobil 1 synthetic?) Hopefully you will get opinions from some auto mechanics on the issue. |
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Replying to: toquinho (Sep 21, 2006 4:47 pm) As to changing the oil early, that seems to be fairly common as there is some initial wear and a magnetic drain plug used to get swapped into C5s so you could see what was there at the next change. I don't know if the C6 comes standard with the magnetic drain plug, my 2002 didn't. Randy |
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Replying to: starrow68 (Sep 21, 2006 7:46 am) Previous posters are 100%. GMPP may be purchased up to 1 year after you purchase your car. Or I guess 11 months and 29 days after. Prices do vary wildly. Shop around before buying a GMPP. I agree the Vt dealer (Fichtner) does have great rates and is honest and clear. No slide of hand with them, so I do recommend them. I bought my GMPP from where I purchase my car -- Ellis Brooks. That was a bad idea. I've learned that dealer was dishonest with me and over-charged me $800. I paid $1,600 for something that Fichtner would have sold to me for $800 and change. This emphasizes something we all should know -- the finance guys at the dealer are not your friend and are there to make a quick-buck. Do not depend on them for information. Typically, expect a rip-off. |
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First: Thanks to all on this Forum that have provided valuable information & insights. Resistance was futile. I ordered a 2007 Corvette C6 Coupe on Wednesday. Expected delivery in 5 – 6 weeks. Monterey Red \ Titanium Gray 3LT, MX0, CC3 - Ray Soon to be Corvette Driver . . . Counting the weeks & the days . . . |
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Congrats on the Vette! I've been watching your posts on the LPS, Lincoln LS forums, etc and wondered what you'd end up with! You'll love the Corvette! Monterrey red is a beautiful color. Grey works incredibly well with that red. If I had a Monterrey Red, I would have gone with a tan interior though, but I love tan interiors. Pain to keep clean though. -Paul
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I've had mine now for 500 miles (coupe, z51). Its been a great car. The hardest transition for me has been to learn to drive at 20% of the car's ability. Generally, with most cars, you accelerate and hit cruising speed by pushing the gas down to say... 50% or 60% of the car's max and then hold back when you hit cruising speeds. Well, with the C6, you'd be hitting the guy ahead of you everytime if you drive that way. Also, consider the GMPP but don't buy it when you're with your dealer receiving the car. Generally, don't buy anything from the finance guy -- that's the safest approach. |
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Replying to: erickpl (Sep 28, 2006 7:09 am) The seats in the light tan ( they call it Cashmere ) might be OK from that standpoint - but all the carpet in that color would be a nightmare for ME to keep reasonably clean... Gray ( called Titanium - for reasons known only to GM Marketing, I suspect - who has ever seen a piece of raw Titanium? ) is paired with black carpet. Works better for me . . . Cheers, - Ray Looking also at the Bowling Green \ Corvette Museum VIP Buyer's Tour - where you follow YOUR car for part of the assembly process, and start it for the first time, at the end of the line...
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Replying to: rayainsw (Sep 28, 2006 8:05 am)  There are a LOT of Corvette-specific forums available out there. Just have to google for Corvette forum and you'll find a great one! -Paul |
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Replying to: rayainsw (Sep 28, 2006 8:05 am) I thought what they did to the car was horrible. The car is still up in the air, the wheels are put on it, it then comes down on the line but still not down on the tires. A guy with a big hose puts gas into the tank. A guy gets into it and starts messing with things. He maybe hooks up an instrument. Looks like lights, etc are turned on. He then starts the car. Looks like he is testing and maybe looking at the instrument and auto gauges. He puts the car into gear, an automatic, and lets the wheels turn at idle. He then SLAMMED THE CAR INTO PARK!!!!!!! WITH THE REAR WHEELS TURNING!!!!!!!! A horrible ratchetting sound from the park pawl until it caught the drive line and stopped the wheels, etc. I really don't think this was a 'test'. I think it was just a union man not caring about GM's and someone else's property. It wasn't his, wasn't going to be his, and he didn't care and didn't take the half second to put his foot on the brake before doing this. Overall, watching the assembly line is scary. Loud blearing music from boom boxes all over the line, smoking on the line except where the 'flammable' signes were at. And, precision tools being used - regular looking electric drivers turning screws into place, with no 'clutch' on them. If you have seen a service manual, there are all these warnings about replacing this or that is hazardous, specified torque values must be used, etc etc. I stopped and watched the guy (and talked to him too - that was another big mistake) that was putting the brake lines and calipers onto the car. Precision tool - he had an open end wrench with the end cut off and welded onto a straight handle which was wrapped with soft rubber material. And he just hand tightened all the brake fittings. What about the warning and the 35foot-pounds in the service manual? Just a good heave on the wrench. At the true end of the line the cars are driven onto a 4-wheel dynometer. Cables are hooked up to connectors. A guy gets into the car and fires it up, on the dyno. A large display is in the front of the car. It stays on the dyno quite a while, up to maybe 5 minutes. The car is taken up to a rather high speed, I think the speed on the display was 70mph. A car on a dyno, with only about 3 posts in the front and 2 on each side near the front is also pretty scary. The car will 'drift' back and forth on the dyno drums. If something happen to the car, stop totally and suddenly, lock up the motor or tanny, or drift off the drums - I really would not like to be near that thing. I really was interested in the dyno run and stayed until it ended, but worried all the time if that car would come flying off the drums... Also, at the end of the line are multiple cars with boo-boos from damages or just paint problems - sitting around with large areas of paint buffed off, waiting to go into another fix-it paint booth there at the end of the line. I wouldn't want to get one of these cars. Some of these things might have changed. This was Bowling Green, about 1986-88, I really don't remember. No wait a minute, It must have been about 91 or 92 because there was a row of ZR-1 alumium engines sitting there waiting for installation. Engine and trannys all wrapped in clear plastic. 91 was the first year for these, right? |
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