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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Volvo XC90 Prices Paid and Buying Experience
1653 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2008 at 4:29 AM
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Replying to: lev_berkovich (Aug 20, 2004 3:23 pm) Edmunds is good, but not perfect. The 2004 TL 6-speed with HPT package that I traded for is listed as having a MSRP of $35,395 and a "TMV" of $35,067. My actual price was $33,308 at the dealer that took my S2000; over $1,750 less than the "TMV". As far as my negotiating skills, I bought a brand new 2002 S2000 in November of 2001 for $32,000 even. The MSRP was $32,880 and, at that time, the Edmunds TMV for my zip code was $36,880 ($4,000 premium). For California, the "TMV" was $40,000+. The 2001 that I didn't buy was sold 2 weeks later to an Arizona doctor for $35,000. I met him when I went in for my tags. He claimed there was a 6 month wait list in the Phoenix area. The only reason I got a below MSRP price was that I had done my research and walked into the dealership with my checkbook, no trade, on the Wednesday before Thanksgiving as snow started falling. The entire transaction took 30 minutes, including 15 minutes for them to wiggle the 2002 out of their interior showroom floor. Three days later, it was 60 degrees and sunny. Look at the Edmunds "TMV" for the XC90 and tell me if you think that it's accurate. For a fully loaded T6, the TMV is about $1,100 under MSRP $2,500 over invoice. In fact, I could pick one up immediately for $1,500 to 2,000 UNDER invoice, a price which appears consistent with deals others are getting in this forum.
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Replying to: habitat1 (Aug 21, 2004 4:52 am) So your position is to buy the latest model year at premium, trade car in after just a few (2-3) years. Mine is - to buy at the discount price (previous MY, if possible) and keep a car till it is fully amortized. Both position are valid, I think, and just a reflection of our different life style. I just think that the car dealers love people like you and hate people like me. And we can let our readers to decide what is more suitable for them. First of all - some of my principals: - there is no car in the world that is worth paying more than 2% over the invoice. - you should not sell your old car, unless you can get a retail price for it. Why let a used car dealer make a profit on your trade? I live by those principals pretty much. I do not remember paying more than $500 over invoice for many years. And I am reluctant to sell my Mazda MPV 1998, unless I will get $500 over KBB suggested retail price (not a trade-in). If I can not - I will de-comission a car for a year, till my daughter comes back from Spain, and will pass it on her. It costs just $10 in CA. Now, Are you aware that every mile you drove S2000 costed you $0.6 ($10000 over 18000 miles). On other side, every mile I drove my S80 costed me so far 0.43 ($35000 over 81000 miles) and it still have at least $10,615 in residual value (KBB trade-in for my ZIP code and good conditions), and I consider that residual value, my cost per mile is $0.30. That is why I have no problems to use my personal car for the business purposes and get reimbursed at IRS rate of $0.375. Also, I consider to keep my car for another 4 years, at least 150000 miles. You can do the math on what my cost per mile would be. And I do remember about maintenance - so far I am covered by the extended warranty and did not pay anything on a top of the regular maintenance. The warranty is $2265, so additional - $0.027 less than 3 cents). So, I am pitching for the conventional wisdom of my heritage - By late in the model year life cycle, especially, just before the style is replaced at the biggest discount you can get, and keep a car for as long as it can be maintained at the reasonable cost. You will save a megabuck by doing that. And forget about all those nifty calculation in Edmunds. Edmunds lives on automotive industry, not on a consumer's support. The only useful figures there are - invoice and incentives. But these are public figures anyway. Dealer can not lie to you about them. They might not volunteer, but if asked, have to disclose them. I have been using these figures well before the Internet. Had to pay to the Consumer Report, so I could do my homework, but never had a situation when I could not get these numbers from the dealer at the point of negotiation.
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Replying to: lev_berkovich (Aug 23, 2004 2:29 pm) I bought a 1995 Nissan Maxima in September 1994 for $20,700. It's still running perfectly and looking darn good with 153,000 miles. I've been offered $4,500 to sell it, but prefer to move it to our second house as a back up car. The total cost of depreciation is 13.5 cents, the net cost, less the current $4,500 value, is 10.6 cents. As for the S2000, it was a "fun" car, so, yes the cost per mile was high. Only about 1/2 of the cost of the Boxster S I considered, but definitely higher than I expect out of a daily driver. And I very much respect your strategy to buy the less expensive, earlier model year and drive it into the ground. That is a financially prudent approach. My point was for those that don't subscribe to this approach because they want a new car every 3-5 years, buying the later model year is generally made up for in the difference in resale value. I guess we disagree slightly on the 2% over invoice target. There are numerous cars out there that I wouldn't pay invoice for, others that I would pay more for. It's supply and demand, and I'd be looking to get the best deal possible for market conditions. But $10,000 off adds for a Ford Explorer wouldn't get me to consider it in lieu of a XC90. Finally, $2,265 for an extended warranty on the XC90?? An Acura 7 year 100k warranty on my 2004 TL is $1,080. The price for my Honda S2000, with boatloads of sophisticated engineering on the engine, chassis, transmission, brakes, etc. would have only been $1,040. I can guess why the Volvo is so expensive - a friend traded his S80 recently after paying $1,500 for a new alternator at 60,000 miles.
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Replying to: habitat1 (Aug 24, 2004 7:46 am) A couple of comments - 2% over invoice is not a target, but a maximum allowance that I am willing to pay, so the dealer can have a fair profit for the fast moving car. Last 6 years - since my 1998 Mazda MPV, I was buying cars under the invoice (two last ones - through Volvo OSD). Getting back to my previous statement, that a car is an expensive toy - my strategy is to define my desired "bracket" - normally as expensive as I can afford at any given moment - large European sedan, upscale cross-over SUV, etc. - and then, look for the most reasonable deals in that bracket. Consider that, Volvo makes a whole lot of "economical" sense. But it might not have any sense to others. Volvo is very sophisticated in "under the skin" design. By the way - that $2265 is for the S80. S80 has a totally unique drivetrain design with traversed mount in-line six. That, plus a limited volume makes this car more expensive to repair. Honda shares a lot of parts with all the other models, and these parts are produced in millions, which makes them much less expensive. Volvo produces just about half a million cars of all the models, therefore, even with the sharing, all the components are more expensive by default. But, I enjoy that unusual design very much, as it makes for a lot of extra interior space within the rather regular exterior dimensions. Just take a ride on a back seat of Volvo S80, BMW 5 and Mercedes E and you would know what I am talking about. Also, if I would take the same 7 years 100K miles coverage with the new car, it would be around $1500 - $1700. I have paid a premium for a procrastination. I will get an extended warranty for the XC90 right away, as soon as it hits the local dealer in a week or so. |
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Does anyone have any current buying experiences to add to this discussion?
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and more data on extended warranties would be useful - my 90 is not in hand, yet, but I plan to buy an extended warranty. then again, if I took the 2K and bought Google stock with it......
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Replying to: adp3 (Aug 24, 2004 12:41 pm) Did you talk to the dealers in your area yet?
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| I'm about to take the next step and start faxing a number of the dealerships in my area, but before I do I would like to know if there are any current rebates I should be made aware of? Thanks. | |
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Replying to: lev_berkovich (Aug 24, 2004 12:59 pm) |
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Replying to: adp3 (Aug 25, 2004 1:04 pm) Keep us posted. |
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