Last post on Nov 22, 2013 at 6:14 PM
You are in the Prices Paid - Buying & Leasing Experiences
What is this discussion about?
MINI Cooper, MINI Cooper Clubman, MINI Cooper Countryman, Coupe, Hatchback, SUV
Jun 17, 2010 (9:26 pm)
Just got this amazing job and I'll be making alot more $ and decided I'd like to buy a Mini. I currently have a Dodge Neon-nice little car, good on gas had it for 7yrs and 140,000 later its slowly starting to fall apart. Its been faithful but its time for a new 1. I'm the type of person that wants to save my pennies and buy with my hard earned cash. I'd like to keep a car as long as possible it just has to keep running..lol
I'm hoping to save over the next 6mths-1yr and sell my car and buy a Cooper.
I was also looking into a Toyota Yaris or Pruis due to similarities of mileage and style but their cheaper.
I'd really like to buy a mini, any thoughts?
here is my stats:
I live in PA..so we got snow
Looking for a 2007 or newer.
Knows how to drive a Manual but not the best at it? Manual or Auto?
Is Maintenance a killer?
Should I buy privately or a dealership?
#1367 of 1499 Re: Prospective Buyer [bbarbacci5]
Jun 30, 2010 (9:29 am)
I would steer away from the stick shift. I have a new 2010 S with 3,600 miles and the clutch and flywheel went out. They told me it was "improper driving". I know how to drive a stick and after doing research now realize that others have been told the same thing.
Mine handles fine in the snow.
The clutch isn't under warranty as it is "driver error"! $3165 to fix but I am fighting it.
#1368 of 1499 Re: Prospective Buyer [docrox]
Jul 01, 2010 (8:14 am)
I would totally fight that. 3600 miles is not normal for a clutch & flywheel to burn out. Keep fighting. You'll win eventually.
Jul 06, 2010 (3:59 pm)
What should I expect to pay for a 2010 Mini S that has a retail sticker of 32,000 but is a dealer demo with 15,000 miles on it? I'm in Southern California.
#1371 of 1499 Looking for tips on buying Cooper S Convertible in the Atlanta area
Jul 08, 2010 (4:31 pm)
I am ready to buy a 2010 Mini S Convertible in the Atlanta area. Can anybody give me some buying tips for this area? What can I expect to pay? Thanks.
#1372 of 1499 Re: 2010 Pricing [dougwolf]
Jul 08, 2010 (4:57 pm)
http://www.carsdirect.com/build/options?zipcode=91107&acode=USC00MNC021A0&restor- - - e=false
Pasadena, CA. Cars Direct. You should pay around 22.5K *new* with no options, so unless that used Mini is gold plated. I'd skip the option packages and get individual items instead. Ignore the idiocy and stick to get the parts that improve handling and mechanical functionality.
But not everything is there - so let's go to the Mini Site:
What you want/don't want:
+ Color. $500. Any decent color seems to cost extra. So be it. I chose Horizon blue.
+ Chrome line exterior makes it look classy. $250.
+ White turn signals do as well. $100
+ Center armrest.
+ Heated Seats
- skip the "leather" - it's not much better than the stock leatherette, to be honest. For $1800 I could get real leather put in at a local uphlolstery shop (I know of two - one in Glendale and one in Pasadena)
+ Color to match exterior/etc. If not an option, just get piano black as it goes well with the gray. ($0 with my color)
Option groups. Skip all of them.
1 - Cold Weather - who needs folding side mirrors? Get the heated seats separately.
2 - Convenience - Just get the ones you want individually.
3 - Sport - skip entirely. Only the Traction Control is actually going to make a difference. The stock wheels are also already far in excess of what a car like this requires. 17 inch run-flat tires also are miserably expensive and rough-riding. In fact, I'd swap the run-flats out from day one for all-seasons.
4 - Premium - I'd honestly get the climate control and premium sound by themselves and save a couple hundred dollars. The dual-pane is basically a terrarium and from the driver's seat you can't see out of it anyways unless you turn your head sideways. I'd say it was great for the passengers, but you can't expect anyone to actually use the rear seats on a Mini. If you want the real deal, just get a convertible instead.
5 - Mayfair and Camden - 4K in useless bling.
Performance. Now onto the real important areas:
+ Manual. The automatic is horrendously expensive to fix and not very reliable, either. In a car this small and light, the manual is almost arcade-game easy and light. If I had to chose a car to learn/have as my first manual, this would be in the top 5.
**edit** No, really. Resale value also drops for automatics as enthusiasts want a sport-upgraded manual and the automatic is almost **5000** to fix when, not IF it breaks.
++ Traction Control and Sport suspension. This alone doubles the handling compared to tires alone. Best $700 you can spend on a Mini. This also makes it into a very desirable basic sport-tuner type car for resale value. ie - nobody who is serious about the car for tuning used will settle for one that doesn't have these options as a starting point. Even if it is ten years from now. The general rule is to always either buy max performance or absolute minimum to save pennnies. Rental stripper or highway punisher. Since you got the S, this is a no-brainer upgrade.
+ Rear fog light is a good addition.
+ Auto -dimming mirror is also nice.
- Xenon/HID. Standard lights are just fine and blind other drivers on high a LOT less. And there is a less expensive and better option (see below)
++The HK Premium Audio is a must.
+ Universal remote is also great to have in a car this small.
- Bluetooth/USB is nice, but it's also horrendously and I mean idiotically expensive when you can get an aftermarket one for $150. (I get a whopping $850 for this and the handsfree phone prep!) That's more than the sport suspension and traction control!
- Auto climate control. It's expensive, and in a car that's so small that you can touch the passenger window while driving, kind of silly.
+ Driving Lights. Very nice to have and TONS better than the HID lights.
+ Rubber floor mats for front, rear, and boot.
+ Map light (nice to have, IMO
+++ JCW Strut brace - Get this as well - nice handling improvement. If you want to upgrade the brakes(highly recommended!), DIY with some nice aftermarket Brembo or similar multi-piston calipers. This also is a fantastic improvement as OEM brakes are almost always merely adequate.
I get $27,413 in this example.
Going over to cars direct gets you about 27K - about a 1K savings.(roughly $27000 but that includes delivery of 700)
#1374 of 1499 Re: Disparity in Markets [markjenn]
Jul 30, 2010 (3:33 pm)
Don't waste your time or money. I bought a brand new S in 2005, and a worthless 100,000 mile ext. warrenty. Ft. end parts worn out 55,000 mi. (not covered), A/C compressor 65,000 mi. (not covered) 2 cooling fan motors first one covered under 3yr. 36000 mi warrenty, 2nd one 400+ bucks. 93,000 mi clutch covered but they want to bang me 800.00 for a flywheel, I can buy 4 on line for that much. Stock run flat tires lucky to get 20,000 mi. Not covered unless you pound a nail into them, 325.00 ea. I was so happy when I bought that car, and I'll be so glad to get rid of it. It's just a hole to throw money into. Oh ya the battery blew up also, scared hell outta me, Same evening after having service, seems no one added water.
#1375 of 1499 Re: 2010 Pricing [plekto]
Aug 02, 2010 (3:09 am)
What a great informative post! Thanks so much!
I am in the market for a new mini hardtop and have some additional questions if you don't mind.
Basically, can one order any mini they want? I'm in Boston and the dealers have souped up minis on the lot. I simply want a bare bones mini hardtop with automatic; there appears to be a free automatic transmission deal going until the end of august. So can i go into a mini dealer and factory order my basic car, or do I need to suffer with whatever options the dealer has on his lot?
Regarding the automatic transmission problems, anyone interested in a used automatic mini should google about it; there are some very sad stories from mini owners from 2002-2006.