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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Honda Element Prices Paid and Buying Experience
729 messages, Last post on Jul 18, 2009 at 2:11 PM
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Hello. I bought a '06 EX 2wd automatic silver with blue trim for $19,050.00 (MSRP=$20,975.00 Invoice=$19,556.00 OTD=$20,019.50 + $750.00 for 5 year 60,000 mile warranty)in NC. Does this sound like a good deal?
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I am Hunting for EX-P 4WD and two Dlr quoted me with 22.5-22.7 19890 Invoice 300 + reasonable Profit 800 + installed option (tire lock and other blah blah) ---------- +T&T ----------- 22600  I still think that I can bring him down by 1K I quated 21000 (Out of door) and the sales guy tried but could not make it. I am sure he will agree on 22000 Out of door but want to get little better because I am current grad and gonna pay hafty on APR 10+  as allways any suggetion is warmly wel comed |
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Replying to: maulinrao1980 (Aug 19, 2006 9:44 pm) I would want $2500-3000 off MSRP of these vehicles as they have mediocre resale. Especially with 10% interest. Hit all the sales managers in your area the last few days or so of AUG. --jjf quoted me with 22.5-22.7 19890 Invoice 300 + reasonable Profit 800 + installed option (tire lock and other blah blah) ----------
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Replying to: maulinrao1980 (Aug 19, 2006 9:44 pm) You mean I should stick to 21000$ (OR even less?  ) the dealer quated Invoice Price is 600 less than what edmunds price is. this is what stops me from bringing edmunds in nagotiation. so far the best price i noticed in this thread is 217XX so I am thinking if i will get 21.5 with my choice of color i will close the deal. ------- ALso my credit is not too great 650+/-5 My credit unions are asking 9.9 & 11.2 is it a good idea to check the rate with multiple sources like e-Loan and dealar financ or just stick to my credit union? because multiple hits on my record can bring it down further.
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Replying to: maulinrao1980 (Aug 20, 2006 6:45 am) I have purchased many autos (most of them used fleet cars for my and others businesses and parts, but numerous new cars also and have also sold cars. I am not an expert on credit, but one national source, other than CU's may be desirable, as they are supposed to have the rep of being local and for the little guy, this may or may not be the case. Having the financing out of the dealers hands are a plus. You'll find that the only true price that matters is ... Price. (with or without taxes for your state---OTD) Working 2 or 3 dealers probably won't do it. Especially by clicking on quick quotes from edmunds, cars.com etc. A Few dealerships in an area pay for exclusive rights for zip codes from these sites and your 2-3 quotes from these will many times be non competitive. (within 100 of each other) Better to use dealer locator from manufacturer site and use Faxes (2nd best emails) to get 15-20 + I have run across two resources over the years that are useful to car buyers. 1) Braggs fighting chance package (34.00) (Most modern) buy it for your auto, read the market survey and fax as many sales managers in Dallas Fort worth and any other locality you would be willing to drive. Many use emails to internet managers or store managers but the Faxes (following instructions) seem to have a weeding out quality of the turkeys who don't really need to make a sale. You get about 50% response to your 15+ contacts. Easy to do with fax software, addressing them by name and personal fax # (if any) Bragg basically tells it like it is and : -the fact that new cars are commodities and must be acquired like any commodity (Soybeans, Corn, Wheat etc)putting many managers in a competitive bidding situation, never setting foot in a place except for a test drive, and the winning few bidders. Walking into dealerships to negotiate the deal is a fools game. In the past and especially now. - You have no way of knowing what the dealer's true cost is as the invoice has become a rather nominal figure in the last decade. Lotsa profit is in bonus money for meeting sales targets etc at the end of months/qtrs. Braggs method stresses trying 10=20+ dealers in an effort to find 1 or 2 standouts who will sell at a loss/low profit deal just to book a sale. make his numbers toward the end of the month . -Spend some money on Amazon (may be updated) or save some at the library and eventually read the classic "Dont get taken every time" by Remar Sutton (1981) Been in the business and it is the most accurate description I have run across, excepting a few magazine articles. Also a fun read. There you have it, for 34.00 and a library card you can learn more than 99% of new car purchasers 95% of salesmen themselves (there is a high washout rate and even I when I started years ago couldn't understand why the store would let go of some cars for a song and stubbornly hold out on others) This info will last you for life. --jjf |
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Replying to: jfritsch (Aug 20, 2006 1:50 am)
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Replying to: maulinrao1980 (Aug 20, 2006 8:25 am) --jjf |
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Replying to: tterrag (Jul 17, 2006 6:27 pm) Congrats! hey is this auto or mannual? and you mean you finally paid 21577+ 695 ? I am also looking for Ex-p AWD auto Kiwi green. |
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Replying to: soulss (Aug 07, 2006 6:41 pm)  750 is rather pricey for 2 years extension of 1/2 the warranty (not Bumper-Bumper)? (the factory is 3/56 BB and 5/60 powertrain?) In any event if it is hondacare (hopefully) D56 (no deductable) warranty it is available from myhondawarranty.com (Saccucci Honda) for $405 (plus a 25 certificate for honda extras or parts) I Believe your hondacare warranty is cancellable within 60 days so go beat your dealer to refund 350, extend the warranty, just cancel and forgo the warranty or go to Sacucci -- internet. If not hondacare obviously cancel it immediately (if possible) and possibly get hondacare from Sacucci. If you have 750 to spend look at 80 - 100k warranties available and more years extension than 2. IMO 750-$405 is also expensive for 2 years of non power train warranty for just years 4 and 5. This may be even less as many will have 80000-100000 K miles by year 5. Add in the fact that the car may get totalled... or worse repoed (++++ does happen folks ) These warranties (even at Sacucci and other internet prices ) should be a poor investment for a honda. (In fact the insurance actuaries bet on it, even with the lower $ they pay for labor) 35-80000 miles should be the sweet spot for any car, and with honda you should be into outer space for reliability (after all, this is why we are coughing up $$ for a honda in the first place right?) After the initial 35k break in almost any ext warranties can be almost pure profit for most car makers, this should especially be the case with honda. Most of you should self insure. (esp with 3/36 and 5-60000 powertrain std.) Just my 2B. (Y'all asked)-- Ive made all the stupid mistakes before to advise others. --jjf Hello. I bought a '06 EX 2wd automatic silver with blue trim for $19,050.00 (MSRP=$20,975.00 Invoice=$19,556.00 OTD=$20,019.50 + $750.00 for 5 year 60,000 mile warranty)in NC. Does this sound like a good deal |
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Replying to: maulinrao1980 (Aug 19, 2006 9:44 pm) Hi all I finally joined the "E" Club and closed the deal at 20485+ T&T(6.25 in Tx ) for EXP 4WD Auto Kiwi green I know I paid 500 over but I was tired negotiating with Chinese Manager and Sales guy. I just gave up and closed the deal I did not had option to go to any other dealer in Dallas because no one else had Kiwi Green color and swap would have added its 100 or 200 extra on it. Big thanks to JJF for giving me courage to stick to my price. My own experience at Lute Riley Honda Richardson did not ended up good. The whole place was like a big circus place and as soon as they know you are a big bargain customer everyone starts behaving differently. The manager took 10 minutes to decide weather to throw front window tinting for free or not even after I told him that I know it costs him <60$ I personally liked Rusty Wallis Dallas. I will suggest everyone to try them first. Unfortunately I will get my car tomorrow because I changed my financing co y’day and need to finish paper work. |
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