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Kia Sedona Prices Paid and Buying Experience

544 messages, Last post on Oct 23, 2009 at 2:04 PM
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Replying to: bluedevils (Jul 14, 2005 12:46 pm) |
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No more personally-directed comments. If you don't like someone's post, please skip it rather than mocking it. kirstie_h Roving Host Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions |
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Replying to: aaf (Feb 11, 2005 6:24 pm) |
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Replying to: philberto (Jul 20, 2005 5:38 am) BTW they have been excellent to work with, the svc dept has addressed every one of our concerns, and been very courtious. I was a little dissapointed in some of the costs of certain services, but then they are a "DEALER", and not an independent service shop. I used to do a lot of work on my vehicles, but lately, i'm getting too old to crawl around on the garage floor, especially on a new Vehicle! Besides, about all you can do is change the oil now-a-days anyway. Boxwrench
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Replying to: craigmri (Feb 10, 2005 2:21 pm) Responding to that, and to navyair's post #165, please consider: If you read aaf's posts carefully, you'll see that he got $1000 less for his trade than he should have. His '98 Windstar with 85000 miles in March of '04 was probably worth $5000 or more as a trade-in according to the Kelley Blue Book. But, he was allowed only $4000. That is the same as increasing the price of the new van by $1000. So, figure the final negotiated price of the van was really $16868 instead of the $15868 mentioned as the price in his post. The trade-in info lets us know more about the true cost of your new car. I like to use the Kelley Blue Book trade-in price to determine the true value of a used car. If you trade in a car and are allowed the KBB trade-in value plus sales tax, then you probably got a fair deal for your trade. Anything less than that could be considered an increase in the selling price of the new car. IF THE ALLOWANCE IS LESS THAN the KBB trade-in price plus sales tax, then you are probably better off selling it on your own if you can afford to have an extra car until its sold. Or, better yet, collect a cash deposit when you enter into a (carefully worded) contingent sales agreement with a private buyer(s) before you even go to the dealer. Unless the new car dealer who sells you a car offers more than the private buyer, then the private buyer gets it. If the dealer allows more, then your private bidder gets a chance to increase his offer above the dealer's offer. |
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Replying to: boxwrench (Aug 01, 2005 5:15 am) I almost missed this. Guess I'm spreading too many posts around here to keep up. Nope! Not Daytona, but down the coast a little in St. Lucie County. I ended up opting for the LX at 15,695 before tax. It's a white one with gray and black interior. I like the looks inside and outside better. I hate luggage racks! I don't like 'fake' wood trim. The only features I miss are the electric vent windows and the fog lights. I found someplace that sells Kia fog lights for $81.90. I can wire them myself! Electric vent windows? I dunno, but I'm looking into it. I also want to change my white front grill to black. Very easy to do if I can find one in a salvage place. I'm working on getting a Kia tow hitch this weekend. When I'm done with this I will have it just the way I like it. I don't plan on taking it to any Kia dealer for service unless there is a warranty issue. I don't trust dealers. Some are better than others, but too many times my cars have come out with more problems than they went in for...and not covered items either. These days I hire my own mechanic...someone I can trust! |
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