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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Subaru Outback Prices Paid and Buying Experience
2266 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 8:44 PM
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Replying to: macdougal28 (Nov 05, 2009 6:22 am) As another post suggested, focus on your out-the-door price. When you make the offer to the dealer, tell him "this includes the doc fees". Let the dealer figure out what is acceptable. My opinion is that doc fees should be called "guaranteed profit". It is 100% profit for the dealer. It is upto consumers to fight these fees and walk away from these dealers. Can you believe that some dealers are asking for $600 in doc fees in Virginia?
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Replying to: vrm (Nov 05, 2009 8:32 am) And here is a tip - in MD that fee is limited to $99. I shopped and found $400 fees in VA, vs. $99 fees in MD. I basically asked them to e-mail me an out-the-door-price, saying I need to write a Cashier's Check for the exact amount. It was accurate, even down to the penny. It also takes pressure off for the add-ons they try to pad pricing with. "Whatever you can give me for this exact price" then point to the check. Of course that requires that you either pay cash or arrange financing on your own. |
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Replying to: ateixeira (Nov 05, 2009 8:42 am) The dealers in Virginia have become too greedy. $400 to $600 in doc fees is unacceptable. I am ready to drive all the way to Pennsylvania - anything to avoid junk and bogus charges.
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Replying to: vrm (Nov 05, 2009 1:15 pm) |
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Replying to: vrm (Nov 05, 2009 1:15 pm)
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Replying to: xwesx (Nov 05, 2009 2:26 pm) But...didn't matter, I shopped out-the-door price, fees included. |
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Replying to: vrm (Nov 04, 2009 6:59 pm) Thanks. Yes, I did get the remote engine starter along with the moonroof and nav, puddle lights, rearview mirror with Homelink, all the cargo nets, security sensor upgrade, XM satellite radio and protection package to include wheel locks, rear bumper cover, splash guards, wheel arch moldings, and all-weather mats. I have only tried the remote engine starter once this week since getting my car. Once you unlock the car the engine will stop and you need to use the key to start the ignition again. I think it is more for warming the car in winter or cooling it in summer than anything else. I usually drive from my garage at home to my garage at work and back home again, only stopping off to buy groceries, so I don't know how often I will really use the remote engine starter. I have never had all these goodies in a vehicle so I got a lot of stuff - probably more than what I need or will use on a regular basis. I will know better with my next new vehicle purchase - probably 10 years from now!. I have not yet had the chance to read through all my documentation to figure out how to set everything up and how it all works but I'm sure once I do, I will use everything more regularly. |
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Replying to: rkrat (Nov 03, 2009 3:05 pm)
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Replying to: surrfurtom (Nov 05, 2009 6:02 pm) |
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Still trying to figure out what my offer will be, but as I do my research I notice most web sites like autotrader, edmunds, etc. list the base 2.5i w/CVT for MSRP of 23,990 (the manual trans. is 22,990). So why in New England is the MSRP $1000 higher on both, with the 2.5i base w/CVT 24,990? Should I be considering this profit to the dealer and figuring that into my offer?
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