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Chrysler Cirrus

61 messages,  Last post on Oct 02, 2009 at 2:31 AM

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#12 of 61 Chrysler Cirrus - Dying after long run by bdas Jul 04, 2005 (9:24 am)
I bought a Chrysler Cirrus 95 model two months back.The milage on the car is 80k. I am the second woner.The problem is that,First time when I drove the car for more than 20 miles and parked it for 1hr in a sunny day , after 1 hr when I start, it started but after running for less than a mile it died and could not restart it.I left the car for 20 min, after 20 min when I start it started and I drove again 20 miles without any problem, but after parking it for 45min again it died.Mechanic told that ignition wire(which goes from ignition key) was the problem, I changed the wire.But today again the same thing happened after driving for nearly 22 miles and parking it for 1hr it died aging and could not start it for 1hr.While it was dying I checked all the controls were in normal condition. Replies to this message: bailey3 (Jul 08, 2005 1:24 pm) drewskie351 (Jul 30, 2007 3:48 pm)
#13 of 61 Re: Chrysler Cirrus - Dying after long run [bdas] by bailey3 Jul 08, 2005 (1:24 pm)
Replying to: bdas (Jul 04, 2005 9:24 am) I bought a 95 Cirrus 5 months ago with 147,000 kms. A few weeks ago my husband lost the keyless entry remote, which was ok until he locked the doors with the power door lock and then used the key to open the door again and set off the factory alarm. He couldn't disarm it, tried all variations of using the key in the drivers and passengers doors, disconnected the battery, nothing worked. He bought a used remote and took the car to the Chrysler dealer, (towed it as it won't run). They told him they could re program this remote in a few minutes, to work with my car. WRONG, nothing they have done will disarm the alarm system. It is still at the dealer and they are calling Chrysler motors back and forth. What kind of a car manufacturer makes a car that a dealer can't fix. We asked if they could just disable the alarm all together but that apparently can't be done. I'm so frustrated that I will not have another Chrysler. Back to a Toyota for me if I can get this one running long enough to sell it. Replies to this message: drewskie351 (Jul 30, 2007 3:48 pm)
#14 of 61 Chrysler Cirrus no codes to read by laborpoor Jul 12, 2005 (6:39 am)
I have a Cirrus 95 and it is nothing but headaches. I have replaced distributer 2 x Alarm would not shut off causing me to tow it to the dealer and have the trunk switch replaced. Air conditioner went out had it fixed Replaced the started it died too. Transmission replaced it went out Complete tune up plugs wires everything. Towed 5x And still have the same problem it dies at stop lights then starts if I am lucky. Then when I shut it off it won't start back up. Sometimes just driving it dies and won't start for a few hours or days. My mechanic said the fuel pump is fine he feels it is electrical but since I have already paid 4700 in repairs he does not want to replace the BCM or the PCM just yet because it may or may not be the problem. He says that when it dies out he tries to read the codes but the computer has nothing there it earases any errors. Help my please I think I could have bought a new car by now for as much as the dealer has charged me in repairs and still walking. Replies to this message: pat (Jul 19, 2005 6:02 am) jafender (Aug 24, 2007 10:15 pm)
#15 of 61 Rear seat removal by bobv2 Jul 15, 2005 (1:49 pm)
The sun has damaged the threads on the black leather interior. How do I get the rear seatback out and apart to restitch the leather seat?
#16 of 61 Re: Chrysler Cirrus no codes to read [laborpoor] by pat HOST Jul 19, 2005 (6:02 am)
Replying to: laborpoor (Jul 12, 2005 6:39 am) In response to your email, try the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion - maybe someone there can offer some advice or point you to a more helpful discussion there on the Maintenance & Repair board.   Good luck - post back here how you make out.
#17 of 61 thinking of a 95 cirrus by bretsky1 Oct 12, 2005 (1:13 pm)
our friend has purchased a 95 cirrus at aution. with 112,000 on it under 2000 $   all i have seen so far is not good for this model year. anyone have any suggestions?   what gas mileage does it get? 2.5 V6.   thanks bretsky1
#18 of 61 A 2000 CIRRUS 2.4L AUTO. CONVERSION TO 2.0L DOHC MANUAL TRANSMITION W/TURBO by d1u8 Nov 26, 2005 (10:29 pm)
IS THIS GOING TO BE A DIFFICULT TASK AT HAND? I'M TRYING TO MAXIMIZE THE 4CYLINDER BLOCK'S PERFORMANCE...."KEEP IT OR CONVERT IT?????"
#19 of 61 1995 Cirrus revving to over 6000rpm at >50 mph by sheila6 Dec 20, 2005 (11:47 am)
My 19 year old daughter's used Cirrus '95 unpredictably revs to above 6000 RPMs at highway speeds; often, the steering simultaneously becomes very stiff (as if the power steering is gone). She has to pull over, turn off the car, wait a bit, then re-start it. Is the transmission going? Is this a solenoid problem? Could it be a sensor? Which one? It seems very dangerous. Replies to this message: aka1 (Mar 31, 2006 9:38 am)
#20 of 61 Re: 1995 Cirrus revving to over 6000rpm at >50 mph [sheila6] by aka1 Mar 31, 2006 (9:38 am)
Replying to: sheila6 (Dec 20, 2005 11:47 am) I had a Cirrus the first year it was made- 1995, LXi- with the V6. The first time I test drove the vehicle I knew I needed to have it. The suspension was firm, the handling tight, the V6 had adequate power to pull strongly through the gears, the Infinity Sound system was decent.   The first day out of the dealership, I took the car to my uncle's home, he warned me about Chryslers, "buy a GM, but never Chrysler or Ford." He reluctantly got in for a test drive, and actually enjoyed it. He rescinded his comments about buying the Cirrus. As we are opening the door to exit, the drivers side door panel falls off, somehow all the clips were not fastened or had come undone. That is some great quality, I must say.   The following week, as I am driving back from the office, the battery light comes on- Chicago bumper to bumper traffic. As I try to make my way to the shoulder, the car completely quits on me, I just barely make it to the shoulder, and have to push the car to allow traffic to flow around me. It was the alternator, it had failed.   As I am waiting for my family to get into the car on a hot Summer day, I have the A/C on so that its not so hot in the car, the next thing you know I have a "CLOUD" of white smoke and a hissing noise. At first you'd think there was a leak in the radiator- as I shut off the engine, and take note the temp. is still normal, I open the hood- to my dismay its not the radiator or its hoses, its the A/C unit, one of the fittings had failed, again, exemplary quality.   Six months of ownership, transmission gets stuck in 3rd gear, Limp Home Mode. Dealer ship replaces transmission, prognosis: the transmission was installed with return line kinked, insufficient cooling, burned clutches. Covered under warranty- again I cannot begin to comment on the absolutely Honda Slaying Quality of Chrysler.   The car was returned to me 3 and 1/2 weeks later, the car drove very very rough, checked the oil, and it was fine. The car one day seized on me- the engine had a oil line problem, and since I had the oil changed while the car was getting its Tranny changed out, it was ultimately the technician that installed the tranny, had done something to prevent the flow of sufficient oil to the engine. Great training comes from great companies.   I dropped the Cirrus and traded it in for a Volvo 850 GLT... If you are considering a Cirrus, please be forewarned, the 1995 Cirrus has a lot of problems, make sure the work that was performed has and is being documented, make sure all the RECALL work has been done. I would stay away from 95-97 Cirri and stick with models after those years.   Good Luck!
#21 of 61 1995 Chrysler Cirrus RPM problems by dsharkey May 19, 2006 (2:43 pm)
Have had relatively few problems until several weeks ago when the car would almost stall at stop lights. Putting it in neutal would help. But while driving 65 MPH on the interstate, the car jumped forward without warning. Took it to the repair shop and had the distributor replaced for nearly $900 including labor. Car is still exhibiting the same tendencies...RPM's will jump even with foot off the pedal. Any ideas from anyone as to what is happening? Thanks.

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