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Nissan Quest 2004+: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

2128 messages,  Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:24 AM

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#59 of 2128 rear main oil seal in engine/airconditioning by carmama1 Oct 09, 2003 (6:46 pm)
My quest is less than 2 months old. Weatherstripping on one door not attached. Leaking oil (rear main seal replaced after 7 days in the shop) now I get it back and the AC doesn't blow cold air at all.   The car is extremely comfortable but I am very dissapointed in the quality.   Anyone else having these problems?
#60 of 2128 boa35 - blown fuses by user777 Oct 09, 2003 (7:03 pm)
i hope the dealership is providing the fuses to you while they ask YOU to diagnose their problem. ask them also to cover the $30/hr -> whatever diagnostic rate too.   you indicated they admitted this is an emerging problem area, and in a previous post, a fuse blew when opening one of the doors. Seems somebody should have more information on your problem. you should not have to guess what is being protected by that fuse. Nissan should be explicit with you.   in the spirit of cooperation, i'd inquire if it would be OK to lower the amperage rating of the replacement fuse. if it is currently 15A, i'd be hesitant to be doing continued "monitoring" (that's funny) using anything but the smallest amperage fuse possible (say 10 or 5A) to support those functions. how much current is drawn by 6 or so interior mini-lamps? have them calculate that total for you.   Geesh.   fuses blow because a circuit is sinking too much current. the fuse protects the circuit and the rest of the system by melting under high current flow conditions and opening such that the current can no longer flow.   i am not an expert...but i find it hard to believe any "memory functions" or interior lights draw much current at all, let alone anything close to 15A.   so anyway, i'm thinking you and your investment are safer and also you're more likely to incurr repeated fails (and thus determine causality) if the rating of the replacement fuses is smaller (maybe 5A). if the event is transient, then a smaller rating fuse isn't going to have the (don't know the term - i'll say ride out) capability of a larger rated fuse, so it will be prone to blow which in your experiment is GOOD.   anyone?   FWIW, I imagine some company produces a device that actually does monitoring of current/voltage...a real-time sampling system, that when it detects an uptick in current flow, or say a droop in voltage, starts sampling and storing date/time and measurements at a rapid pace. with it, one could determine event duration, magnitude, frequency, periodicity / aperiodicity, etc etc.   Tell Nissan you want them to research that and put one of those in your car.   Not to make you paranoid, but if it was me...   ...this car would not be parked in the garage until the source of the problem was determined and corrected.   Something is sinking a good deal of current. Maybe (hopefully) you've got a bad light recepticle which is shorting to gnd, or across/around the bulb.   Let's say you can go with a smaller amp fuse, then i'd see if they blow with any frequency when a door is opened. i'd also try wiggling or tapping each light recepticle one by one with all lights on to see if the fuse blows.   good luck.
#61 of 2128 Noises, and more noises. by shenkar Oct 10, 2003 (2:40 am)
The great Edmunds review of the SE (just out) states that it goes about its' business without road or wind noise. This is not my experience with our SE at all. There is so much wind and road noise you can't have a nice easy conversation...and the compensation feature on the stero goes crazy constantly adjusting the volume to overcome this unwanted competition.   Any ideas on how to effectively make this puppy be quiet? The wonderful engine is virtually silent, so these other sounds are complete intrusions.   Also, any idea whether insulation can be sprayed in the sliding door cavities to quiet the rattles and squeaks from them? And what about undercoating to silence the excessive road/tire noises.
#62 of 2128 The "wind Noise" by green_tea Oct 10, 2003 (2:44 pm)
My wife has her new Nissan quest for 3 weeks and she feels great about it. I read about the "wind noise" in this thread and did pay attention to it. Last night about 12 pm, I drove the Quest to highway for a test. Going to highway on the city road in St. Louis, I did hear the "wind noisy" when the car surpassed 40 Mph. When I hit the high way, I still got the noisy. I decided for a long drive to suburb of the city, about 70-80 MPH. Suddenly, the "wind noisy" disappeared and I felt very quite. I noticed the highway road had changed to some "coarse surface" instead of those new cement-like road. The car was really quite on the "coarser" highway even beyond 80 MPH. Is the so called "wind noise" caused by the road?   Today, I went to work with my Honda Civic. It is very interesting that the same thing happened again. When the Civic passed 30 MPH, I heard the "wind noise" on the "new constructed, smoothly" cement road. But the noise disappeared under the coarse highway. The noise with the Civic is almost the same as the Quest (not that much on both case).   Why did I not notice the noise with the 2001 Civic before? I think I did never pay any attention to it and most of the time I turn my radio on. But with new Quest, I paid "too much" attention. LOL.   I did check the air-Conditioned Vent and other rattle noise as well. Luckily, I did not find any problem on my wife's new Quest. I received a call from Nissan dealer yesterday and they wanted me to give the "survey paper from Nissan" to them in exchange of a full tank gas. Weird. They could fill the survey with all "excellent" remarks, I think. However, it seems they do care about the customer's opinion.
#63 of 2128 Unlocked/Locked Steering by raul4 Oct 11, 2003 (6:03 pm)
A different kind of problem! The steering almost always will not lock when I remove the key from the ignition. On the rare occasion when it does lock, it is difficult to release the switch from the locked position. The manual says to turn the ignition on from a locked position, the steering should be moved slightly and at the same time turn on the ignition. I have to use quite a bit of force on the steering to get the switch released from the locked position.   Has anyone else encountered this problem?
#64 of 2128 Engine Service Light by niceguy Oct 13, 2003 (7:17 am)
Hi all,   The engine service light on our 2004 Quest S model came off after 1,200 miles. Does anyone here have the same problem ? Can we reset it ? or we have to take the van to the dealer for them to check ?   Thanks in advance ! Have a wonderful day ! Replies to this message: ngason (Jan 04, 2006 8:25 pm)
#65 of 2128 Re engine service light by backy Oct 13, 2003 (10:04 am)
If there is no other indication of an engine problem (e.g. running rough) this could be due to a gas cap that is not seated properly. Review the owner's manual and try reseating the gas cap per its recommendation, and see if the light goes out--it may take a day or two.
#66 of 2128 Rattle solution by thedibs Oct 13, 2003 (8:08 pm)
Well, for some of them...   I have the SE and I noticed some rattles inside the van.   As I started hunting them down I was able to get rid of most of them.   First, sit on the 3rd row and notice some of the plastic covers that hide the screws for the skylights are a little loose. These vibrate when the car is moving. There are 4 of these things, one per sky-window. Also, the same thing on the column that goes up into the ceiling (a round lid/cover). If you open these up you will be able to stuff some "filler" inside that will push against the cover to prevent it from vibrating. ( I used paper for this but you can get more creative ... dry silicone?).   After taking care of these, I noticed that there is only 1 rattle left. Its minor and only happens on really bad roads. It comes from the front of the ceiling console. There are some screws there and I might try to tight them up.   I have not experienced sliding door rattles. My Van has two electric sliding doors. Could it only be happening to "non-electric" doors?
#67 of 2128 Road Noise Reduction by thedibs Oct 13, 2003 (8:17 pm)
I had my SE treated with a under-coating for rust and noise reduction. It feels a lot quieter now. There is some wind noise but I feel it is related to the wind resistance of the rail-racks.   The treatment that I did was for rust prevention, road noise reduction, paint protection, and interior protection (carpets, seats). The paint feels so smooth now to the touch and dirt does not seem to stick to it as much...   I paid $895 for it in case you are wondering.
#68 of 2128 A big rattler and the rear wiper cries loud by questown Oct 14, 2003 (3:15 am)
First the positive - Very comfortable ride and powerful engine. But our quest- the base model( Please don't make this mistake)we bought has a noisy engine (it is normal according to the sales person), and it rattles like a big truck! We took it to the dealer in Fairfax, VA and first time they said they could not reproduce the noise! Second time, they said they fixed it, and I had to take it again a third time!! This time the mechanic took a ride with us, and explained that a big van like this will have some noise, and there is nothing they can do about it! The rattling is coming from the passenger side of the sliding door. We went for a long drive this week-end and it was such an irritation. Wish we bought the new Sienna for the big price we paid.   And we also noticed the big noise the rear wiper makes! To add to our vow, we noticed the paint chipping from the front dash! Did I get a lemon?

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