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Vans & Minivans Nissan Quest Nissan Quest 2004+: Problems & Solutions 
2128 messages, Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:24 AM
You are in the Nissan Quest Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Hi, My wife drove our new Quest with the Parking brake on for about 6-8 miles (at ~50mph). According to her, it was ok below 40mph but once she went over 50, she got a clunky noise in the engine (obviously). Anybody knows if this will cause any short term/long term problems? Thank you |
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We bought our 2004 Nissan Quest SE about 2 weeks a go. We like the car a lot. However, we recently noticed that the both power sliding doors (especially the driver side) could fail and consequences could be very serious. I summarized below what I observed and I was wondering if you observed any similar behavior. Or, is this the way it is supposed to work (hope not!)? According the specs, while the door is closing, when you put an object or apply a force in the opposite direction, the door is supposed to open automatically and should not close all the way. It works fine when the door is about 8 (or less) inches open before it fully closes. But the first problem is when you apply the pressure earlier (more than 8 inches open) it does not work. It keeps closing. I think it should open automatically at any point when there is a pressure in the opposite direction. The second and more serious problem is that while the door is half way or more open and when you put the pressure and keep the pressure on, it keeps closing all the way!!! I tried it several times and it did the same all the time on both doors. I put a medium pressure with my hand and pushed it the other way. It keep closing all the way till the end and I had the pull out my hand just before the door fully closes. PLEASE BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU DO THE TEST, THE DOOR IS HIGHLY LIKELY TO FAIL AND CAUSE A SERIOUS INJURY. Next, I will take the car to the Nissan service and keep you updated on this issue. Please let me know if yours work fine or if this is how it supposed to work in general with power sliding doors. |
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I have SL with passenger side power sliding door, I did not experience pinch protection problem in door, i did however tested how much force i need to apply in order to reverse closing door and I would say it is a lot, a child would be scared, (i have switched off the power door switch in the door) both my kids try to close the door first when they enter the vehicle and a situation may arise that the door is closing while a child is entering in the van, a three year child can not force back the automatic closing door. I did check this issue with some other people having this options in other minivans they say it is very similar. There is no pinch protection in the power windows the windows will automatically go up and no force will stop it, so be very careful when kids are around, Nissan should fix this, i don't know it is a problem in my van or a design issue. can some verify one touch power window up function and check pinch protection. does window come back when you apply reverse force on it? |
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I also have the rattle noises. They come from somewhere along where each sliding door connects to the A column when closed (both passenger & driver sides have this problem). My wife doesn't mind much, but it drives me NUTS as well. Next time it goes in to fix the air problem, the problem with the driver side temp control knob and my problem w/ the AM radio, I'll have them look at this as well. Great vehicle to drive, but all the little problems are driving me nuts. When you spend $40k on a vehicle, you expect to do nothing except basic maintenance for the 1st couple years. Mine has already been in the shop for 6 or 7 days w/o many of the problems fixed. Don't know what to do at this time. |
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| You have discovered a sad fact about cars: there is no correlation between the purchase price of a car and its reliability--especially for brand-new designs. Just ask a Mercedes owner, or BMW owner. Or check out the problem posts on the '04 Sienna--a Toyota, one of the most reliable brands. The reliability of the second-gen Odyssey wasn't all that great for the first couple of years either. On the other hand, you could spend $10k on a car like the ECHO and have no problems whatsoever. | |
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Have had my SL for 6 weeks and the 15A "BCM Battery Saver" fuse has blown four times--it controls interior "room" lights and memory systems," e.g., Homelink and who knows what else. Most recently, the Dealer had the van for 2 days but still couldn't isolate the source. They contacted Nissan which acknowledged that this was indeed an emerging problem area and offered them a couple of suggestions, neither of which worked. I've now got the van back with instructions to closely "monitor" each time what I'm doing just before the thing blows! Apparently, the problem is not wide spread as I have seen no other posted comments.
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I paid particular notice today regarding the rattle of the passenger side slider. Every time I went over a bump or rough spot in the road, it sounded like the door was bumping up and down; as if it not properly seated. I have not as yet taken it back to the dealer. I'm waiting to include it with some other minor items on the 1,000 mile check. |
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My quest is less than 2 months old. Weatherstripping on one door not attached. Leaking oil (rear main seal replaced after 7 days in the shop) now I get it back and the AC doesn't blow cold air at all. The car is extremely comfortable but I am very dissapointed in the quality. Anyone else having these problems? |
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i hope the dealership is providing the fuses to you while they ask YOU to diagnose their problem. ask them also to cover the $30/hr -> whatever diagnostic rate too.  you indicated they admitted this is an emerging problem area, and in a previous post, a fuse blew when opening one of the doors. Seems somebody should have more information on your problem. you should not have to guess what is being protected by that fuse. Nissan should be explicit with you. in the spirit of cooperation, i'd inquire if it would be OK to lower the amperage rating of the replacement fuse. if it is currently 15A, i'd be hesitant to be doing continued "monitoring" (that's funny) using anything but the smallest amperage fuse possible (say 10 or 5A) to support those functions. how much current is drawn by 6 or so interior mini-lamps? have them calculate that total for you. Geesh. fuses blow because a circuit is sinking too much current. the fuse protects the circuit and the rest of the system by melting under high current flow conditions and opening such that the current can no longer flow. i am not an expert...but i find it hard to believe any "memory functions" or interior lights draw much current at all, let alone anything close to 15A. so anyway, i'm thinking you and your investment are safer and also you're more likely to incurr repeated fails (and thus determine causality) if the rating of the replacement fuses is smaller (maybe 5A). if the event is transient, then a smaller rating fuse isn't going to have the (don't know the term - i'll say ride out) capability of a larger rated fuse, so it will be prone to blow which in your experiment is GOOD. anyone? FWIW, I imagine some company produces a device that actually does monitoring of current/voltage...a real-time sampling system, that when it detects an uptick in current flow, or say a droop in voltage, starts sampling and storing date/time and measurements at a rapid pace. with it, one could determine event duration, magnitude, frequency, periodicity / aperiodicity, etc etc. Tell Nissan you want them to research that and put one of those in your car. Not to make you paranoid, but if it was me... ...this car would not be parked in the garage until the source of the problem was determined and corrected. Something is sinking a good deal of current. Maybe (hopefully) you've got a bad light recepticle which is shorting to gnd, or across/around the bulb. Let's say you can go with a smaller amp fuse, then i'd see if they blow with any frequency when a door is opened. i'd also try wiggling or tapping each light recepticle one by one with all lights on to see if the fuse blows. good luck. |
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The great Edmunds review of the SE (just out) states that it goes about its' business without road or wind noise. This is not my experience with our SE at all. There is so much wind and road noise you can't have a nice easy conversation...and the compensation feature on the stero goes crazy constantly adjusting the volume to overcome this unwanted competition. Any ideas on how to effectively make this puppy be quiet? The wonderful engine is virtually silent, so these other sounds are complete intrusions. Also, any idea whether insulation can be sprayed in the sliding door cavities to quiet the rattles and squeaks from them? And what about undercoating to silence the excessive road/tire noises. |
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