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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Toyota Avalon Prices Paid and Buying Experience
1474 messages, Last post on Oct 01, 2009 at 8:52 AM
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And the Fitz experience confirmed it -- when the deal got messier, so to speak – locating the car, PPOs, hinting at a trade, etc. -- the sales force (er, the “consultants”) lost interest and the deal started to unravel. But if you are willing to buy a car under the conditions I listed above then I expect you will be pretty “satisfied” by a dealership on the “Cabinet” list. At minimum, consider getting a quote from them … it is probably not going to get too awfully much cheaper than what those lots will offer via phone/email on a cash basis. I called a number of them (across the US, not identifying my location) to help me get a fix on what the initial offer and dealer walkaway price might ought to be. They were good numbers for a place to start figuring from. Here’s the Cabinet’s List from the Toyota website, in ranked order: * Longo Toyota -- El Monte CA (LA metro area) * Toyota of Riverside -- Riverside CA (LA metro area) * Molle Toyota -- Kansas City KS * Ft. Myers Toyota -- Ft. Myers FL (Naples / Southwest Coast area) * Atlanta Toyota -- Duluth GA * Miller Toyota -- Manassas VA (DC metro area) * Beaman Toyota -- Nashville TN * Toyota of Puyallup -- Puyallup WA (Seattle-Tacoma metro area) * Libertyville Toyota -- Libertyville IL (North Chicagoland) * Maroone Toyota -- Davie FL (Ft. Lauderdale/Miami metro area) * Fitzgerald's Lakeforest Toyota -- Gaithersburg, MD (DC metro area) * Toyota of San Bernardino -- San Bernardino CA (LA metro area) I also took a stab at a number of the smaller, more rural dealerships in the area (on and off lot), but, generally speaking, I ran into a lot of highballing, sweatboxing, “come on down,” “bait and switch” attempts (there is a gob of markup/margin in the Southeast region Special Edition vehicle and one dealer tried to switch me into it at delivery … I walked) … and other such tactics that just wasted a lot of my time. So, looking back, I would recommend following tstrick320’s distance-bidding approach … after first checking ultra-high volume lots to make sure you have an idea of where the low bid ought be … and be sure to include some high and ultra-high volume dealerships if possible. Expect the best Limited deal to be about invoice plus $150 … unless it is the SE region, in which case it would be closer to invoice plus $850. If it is not an ultra-high volume lot … and the deal becomes more than a quick cash turnover (as with mine) your going to end up closer to invoice plus $1400 … the number toyodlr’s post suggests. Some other advice: If you cut a deal off-lot, and they don’t stick to the deal when you hit the lot, save yourself some time and frustration and just walk—the deal you thought you had was never there. Also, be clear that you are negotiating total delivered/OTD price, less only TTT, throughout your phoning/emailing/dealing/negotiating. It IS possible I left some money on the table along the way [Perhaps I might have priced in the SET fee when it was already built in elsewhere (though I think not, based on the digging I did) … or perhaps I shouldn’t be letting the dealer “off the hook” for the last $575 so easily and logically.] But I ended up with a dealership that could handle the PPOs hassle-free, and if I ended up with a dealership that I can trust in day-to-day dealings, that knows what it is doing in the shop and that remains customer-oriented throughout the ownership experience … well, it’s probably still a very good deal … for me. If you follow tstrick320’s distance bidding approach, and do some homework in advance to double-check the low bidder, you’ll probably “flush out of the brush” any extra monies I might have left behind and get your best deal. I dumped a lot of info in this post ... some of it took me a while to discover during the dealing ... in the hope that it shortens your learning curve and snags you your best deal. Happy hunting !! |
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Replying to: drquality (Feb 04, 2006 12:43 pm) I guess many customers take the bribe which explains why Atlanta Toyota are "among the top 12 based on the customer Sales Satisfaction Survey." I had a problem with my car after picking it up, but the salesman and sales manager refused to return my repeated phone calls or emails. The salesman did have the nerve to call me a month later to complain about my less than complimentary, but factual response to Toyota's Sales Satisfaction Survey! Those President Awards are worth nothing. Every dealer posts "Dealership of The Year" award plaques for the past 20 years all over their showrooms. I know of 2 other people who had a negative experience with these guys. Atlanta Toyota get a zero out of ten from me.  I previously bought 2 Toyotas from Sandy Springs Toyota and they were professional and courteous all the way. The salesman followed up after each sale and attended to a couple of post-sales issues without complaint. Unfortunately they didn't have the car I wanted when I was shopping for the Avalon.
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When making a purchase, every deal should be at invoice or below. Why? Every Avalon gets $$ holdback that enables the dealer to make money even below invoice and this DOES not count any additional incentives ie dealer volume, end of month/quarter promotions. One example is an XLS 'base' model: MSRP= $34,395 Base Invoice= $30,337 Real Dealer Invoice = $29,661 (including a holdback of $676) Knowledge is power! 
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Replying to: jcooper1 (Feb 02, 2006 6:50 am) That was some good information and good numbers. With a price difference of $4,450.00 (XLS vs. XL) I'm starting to think it might be wise to loose the "S" on the trunk. I'm not sure if there is enough real difference between the two to justify the cost difference...but I guess it's an individual thing. It gives me something to think about. |
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About 2 weeks ago I purchased the above car with the following: Rear spoiler (with LED light) Color matched mud guards Carpet Floor mats/Trunk/Cargo mats All season floor mats Toyoguard plus protection plan (SE region only) Invoice on this car is $32,306.90 (not to include the all season mats).....I purchased it for 32,000.00 before tax and tag. Plus since I am active duty military I got an additional $500 rebate........so all in all not a bad deal. They had to do a search and find the white color with ivory interior we wanted....had to wait a week.....no additional charge for this by the way.....if they try to charge you for this......tell them that's bs...... My purchase was made in Tampa.....and to add what the other poster stated is that SE Toyota does add in an additional charge on their invoice for these cars.....I think that is complete BS, BUT if you want a Toyota in this part of the country be prepared to pay it.....try and get below invoice like I did....$300 below invoice.....plus I got an additional $500 off for being active duty military.....so these deals are out there.....just do your homework.....come up with a REALISTIC price before going to the dealership......stick to your guns.....and everything will work out.....BUT be prepared to walk if you don't get what you want.....within reason of course..... Happy Motoring!!
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If there is anyone in the state of Texas that has bought, or is buying, an Avalon in the ball park of invoice I would appreciate a response to this post. I have been doing the research, mainly on this site and have seen many buying experiences that have been pleasant, at invoice and on very rare occasions, below invoice. I have not seen this in Texas and with 74 Toyota dealers in this state you would think it's at least possible. I've done the same many others on this site have done: e-mailed dealers (not all 74 of course) and the ones that require a phone number I avoid. I don't need that headache right now and I don't understand why some dealers require a phone number, but I suspect it's so they can do the lip action (deception) to get you in without having to back it up (hard copy). If I were to find such a deal I would jump on it like a chicken on a June bug and would be willing to drive anywhere in the Lone Star state to pick it up (with the exception of the panhandle). It's time for a little vacation anyway. One other note: I noticed that in most cases when the Avalon was bought at invoice it was from high volume dealers. Does anyone know how to determine if a dealership is high volume? Thanks in advance for any response. |
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Replying to: mldj98 (Feb 06, 2006 4:08 am) Got a question for ya. Did you make a mistake on the invoice of 32,306.90 or did the spoiler and toyoguard plus combined invoice at $1,450.90?
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Replying to: easttexas (Feb 07, 2006 11:21 am) I think the key to getting a response is to be very clear about what you want and what you are going to do. The dealers are going to focus their energy on "live" prospects. Traditionally, that's a warm, emotionally charged body on the lot. Doing this long distance requires some extra effort to convince them you're for real and that they should take the time to respond. Get your financing lined up so that you can ask for, and close on, a cash deal. Be ready to purchase the car NOW. Be willing to wait for a factory order. Make it clear you will only consider written quotes. Include ALL of your contact information -- you want these people to respond, make it easy for them. And, yes, I know you'll get calls from high-pressure salesmen who want just want you to "come in to talk" (refer to warm, emotional body above). Tell them you'll call them back just as soon as you get their quote by FAX. Buying a car this way takes some work but it saved me a bundle. You won't do this every day so you can afford to spend some time on it. Good luck! |
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Replying to: easttexas (Feb 07, 2006 1:39 pm) No that is the invoice....what you have to remember is that the invoice for the Avalon is different in the SE region of the country......if you go to edmunds, or Kelly Blue Book website and punch in a Tampa zip code you will see that there is an additional $700 added to the invoice price for cars in this region. For people that live in this region it is a big pain in the ass.....but we have no other choice but pay it or buy a different make of car. How I came up with the invoice price is I went to KBB and punched in the car and it's options and came up with that price which include destination of course. If your in Texas your invoice price will be different...... Did that answer your question? Hope so.... Good luck in your search.....
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My thoughts on SET Toyoguard is that it "doesn't count" on the invoice or the sticker ... I count is as "no value" in the deal. (My sticker did not have it, but most in the SE do). I see it as just "fluff" for the dealer to toss away in the wheeling-dealing to make your deal look a little better. At one "what'll ya gimme" session (I don't buy that way, but I gather info that way), the first thing I said was "can the Toyoguard" and the dealer drew a pencil line through it without a moment's hesitation. On the Avalon Limited ToyoGuard Plus invoices (according to NADA.com) at $231 and lists for $699. Here is what you get: First oil change free -- ok, I'll give ya that's worth $20 at Quick-e-lube. Some dealers will throw that into the deal just to get you started on using their service bays. Towing, Roadside assistance -- free or very minimal costs (say $10/yr) with most auto insurance policies. It is no extra charge on my policy. Rental car assistance -- Not a rental car, rental car ASSISTANCE. I am guessing (maybe I am wrong here) that this means the service rep will walk you over to the window where they rent Corollas. Many, many Toyota dealerships run a Rent-A-Car operation ... (and I find it to be a good deal, btw, I toggle between Toyota RAC and Avis.) Exterior paint sealant -- a quick spray of poly wax and a buff. These days, "paint sealant" means "poly wax." Sealant cleaner -- guessing this is a spray of spot-free rinse solution or some other minimal treatment. Undercoating & sound seal -- a quick spray of liquid that deters rusting ... on top of the already protected underbelly ... that is already covered as rust-free in your warranty. Unless I am mistaken they don't put on the gooey tar-like stuff that used to be put on as undercoating long ago. Interior protectant -- Spritz carpets and fabric with Scotchguard. $6 a can at the supermarket. Vehicle VIN etch protection -- Print out your VIN number on strips of acid-coated paper and rub one of them on an edge of each of your windows. It might deter a thief ... who wants to steal your car just to part out the windows. I have seen this offered online (they send you the printed tapes for you to rub on) for as little as $19. Again, when I worked my numbers I just ignored it.
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