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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Acura TL Prices Paid and Buying Experience
10985 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 5:23 AM
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Hey i purchased a new black type-s 6mt. I traded in my 2006 325i - it handles terribly in chicago winterrs and seems to be horsepower and technologically handicapped (i'll probably get lynched by other bmw owners). The handling is pretty good though, and i'm sure a 335i would be much better. It was originally my wifes car. Anyway, I went to two dealers within two days. The first I haggled down to invoice ($35,600 before TTL), however they weren't willing to give me an extra $500 on my trade in value so I bid them farewell. I called a second dealership and told them my situation, and they were much nicer - immediately offered the same invoice price and promised to beat the deal on the trade... I ended up getting $600 extra on the trade. anyway, with the money factor of 0.00137 and resid value of 57% for 15000 miles, the lease deal was too good... Instead of purchasing i leased and my car payments are actually $250 less than what i was paying on the bmw. My monthly is $529.00 with taxes. Acura's leases are excellent (i've leased three cars and have taught many friends about leases).... gap insurance is included, the acquisition fee was built in, no security deposit, and there is a $1500 damage allowance at the end of the lease term . Although bmw does have attractive leases on certain models during certain months, they tend to charge a "MACO" fee, acquisition, and security deposit so your out - the - door payment is still high for a 0 down lease. In the last 3 years I've now have purchased/leased a 2006 g35 coupe 6mt and a 2006 325i. After i've driven the tl type s for awhile I think I might become an expert in the "Entry level sport sedan" forum discussion. All i need is the lexus is 350. Good luck to all that are looking to purchase/lease - if you are looking to lease soon, you should get in on the current lease deals now - you can get a tl type s for possibly less than $500/month with absolutely 0 down, only the first month's payment.
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| I think i just made the previous post, but anyway, i was told by my dealer in chicago that acura has an overabundance of supply of the tl and tl type s cars.... thus the lease and financing incentives. Especially on the type s - not many people, he said, need or want the extra sporty options the tl type s has. I had no problem at all haggling down to invoice on the tl type s at two different dealerships. Its invoice is about 35600 with the destination fee. Hopefully this gives some confidence to people in the market for a tl or tl type s. | |
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Replying to: vicnation (Feb 24, 2007 11:35 am) |
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Replying to: doccha (Feb 24, 2007 2:46 pm) |
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Replying to: laguy50 (Feb 24, 2007 1:41 pm) The dealership always has to make something on a car. Right now, apart from any other factory to dealer incentives, the dealership receives a 3% of MSRP "holdback fee" from the factory for every unit sold. This is in addition to any profit they may make over the invoice fee. 3% equates to over $1,000. Usually, dealers won't give up anything from their holdback but a few here have been able to dip into that a little. Both Honda and Acura have the 3% holdback fee on all their vehicles so the Type S would be included. The price I was willing to pay included the invoice, doc fees, and the TTL. That gave the dealership a fair profit and I got what I feel was a fair deal. Ultimately, I think I paid $9 over invoice before TTL and doc fee. Others on this site have even done a little better than me. As for the AcuraCare warranties, they are transferrable for a $50 fee. Otherwise, if you sell the vehicle, get in an accident, get rid of it for any reason, or just wish to cancel it, you are entitled to get back the pro-rated balance ...whenever you wish to cancel. I believe you get an initial grace period where you can get 100% back from the warranty should you change your mind after the initial purchase but I'm not sure how long that might be. The cost for the 8 year/120k mile warranty was raised $100 in January to $1,415. They make these periodic adjustments once or twice a year from what I understand. The Finance manager doesn't want you to know that this price is negotiable and they gave me a hard time until they knew I wouldn't budge. $100 profit is better than no profit and it's not like these things are sitting on shelves and taking up inventory space.
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| Does anyone have any indications of pricing on a base TL without navigation in the Memphis area? Are people getting prices nearer to invoice or MSRP. The Edmunds/CarsDirect/Etc. are quoting prices right around sticker while most other areas of the country (based on this forum) seem to be getting closer to invoice price. Anyone have any info? | |
I love my '06 Acura, but I'm totally sorry I didn't get it with the navi.  So... I want some thoughts from you. Right now I have 2850 miles on the car. It's in perfect condition except a small chip on the edge of the driver's side door which I will have fix by a professional. I know this isn't the time of year to buy. So, am I better off holding on to the car for another two years and then buying a new one? I got my '06 at the end of November for 28,300. Should I just suck it up and go buy an aftermarket Garmin? (BTW.. I always sell my cars by myself and unless circumstances warranted it, I'd never do a trade in.) Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Replying to: vicnation (Feb 24, 2007 6:33 pm)  On a related note, does anyone happen to know if there are any factory to dealer incentives being offered for the TypeS (or scheduled for the near future)? |
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After reading this post for months I finally made my purchase. A 2007 TL/Navi silver w/black interior for $33,450 & free tint & free oil change and filter for 4yrs or 50,000 miles + TTL. I negotiated my deal over the internet and telephone then went to pick up my car. I live in Houston where we have 4 Acura dealers. It was the end of the month and I had all the Acura deals biding against each other to lower the price. I picked up the car January 30th . I missed the 4.9% APR from the dealer by my credit union had a January special of 5% APR. This post was soooo helpful in helping me set my price. The deal I got was much better then I expected. 
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Instead of spending ~$1500 on an extended warranty, self-insure! As the original warranty is 4 year/50k miles, take the $$$ and instead of buying the warranty, conservatively invest (CD, T-bills, Money Markets et. al.) it for the duration of the original warranty. If after the warranty expires you do not need any expensive repairs, you still have YOUR money + interest/dividends (e.g. invest for 4 years  5%/yr you'll have ~1825!!! still, in YOUR possesion!). If, per chance, there is a pricey failure, you still have YOUR money + interest/dividends to pay for the repair. I would have to believe that, espacially for Honda/Toyota products, that the odds are severely stacked in the house's favor re: extended warranties. I recently owned a first model year Chrysler product, odds would seem to be in favor of an expensive out of warranty repair? I kept the 300M for 2.5 years/31,000 miles out of warranty and no failures whatsoever. I won! Used the extended warranty $$$ I kept invested as down paymemt on my '05 TL. Needless to say, no extended warranty. Having written all this, if you can't sleep at night without the extended, by all means as vicnations advises, negotiate the price! |
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