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Coupes & Convertibles Chrysler Sebring Chrysler Sebring Convertible
409 messages, Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:26 PM
You are in the Chrysler Sebring Forum. Your Host is claires
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Replying to: bigeee (Dec 15, 2007 1:08 pm)
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Replying to: tedebear (Dec 15, 2007 1:21 pm) Welcome to CarSpace, bigeee - glad to have you aboard! 
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My battery will only hold a charge sometimes. Every few days My car will not start, the battery is dead, even jumping it is hard. I put a new battery in twice and soon after the same thing happens again. I jumped it one day and then drove it about 10 miles and it would not start again, the next day I jumped it and drove it about 15-20 miles and later that day it started just fine. The only thing that happens that may be unique is that when the battery is almost dead, not enough to turn it over, the ignition light (where I put the key) will filcker and quietly buzz? I have no access to a garage and I love my car, does anyone have any idea what is going on? I am ready to pull my hair out, please help if anyone can.
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Replying to: skronenwetter (Dec 29, 2007 1:51 pm) Here's a link to checking the charging system. There are a few things you might look at that the person at AutoZone won't inspect. Some things, such as corrosion, loose connections and proper tension on the alternator belt don't require any meters or special tools. http://autorepair.about.com/od/electricaltroubleshooting/a/battery_check.htm |
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| Hi, I have a 2006 Sebring convertible (Touring) and the theft alarm has been going off randomly. I have tried to de-activate by using the key rather than the remote to no avail. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks! | |
| I have a 1997 Sebring JXi convertible. At times,usually shortly after starting the car, the digital display for the odometer and automatic transmission and the tachometer quit working. After 10 or 15 minutes they come back on and stay on most the time. Only once when I was driving several hours did it go off more than once. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong? I asked a Chrysler service department and they didn't sound too encouraging. They basically said it would be hard and expensive to find the problem. I was wondering if it could be a faulty fuse or a loose ground. | |
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Replying to: mcginty1 (Jan 06, 2008 9:10 pm) You have to remove the instrument cluster from the dashboard. - not a big deal. The problem is on the circuit board on the back side of the instrument cluster. There are three ceramic power resistors( cylindrical items with color coding stripes. the resistor bodies on mine were blue) that are mounted too close to the circuit board. These get hot in operation and you will easily see where the circuit board is burned. The resistors are fine. The problem is that the solder joints that connect the resistors to the board have cracked due to thermal stress and the connection becomes intermittent. This is what causes the intermittent operation of your instrument cluster. I used some small pieces of wire to patch up the circuit board and reinforce the solder connections. When resoldering the resistor connections, I spaced the resistor bodies about 1/16 inch off the board, supported by their leads, instead of mounting them tightly against the circuit board. This removes the hot resistor from direct contact with the circuit board and gives room for air to circulate so the board won't burn again.
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of my 2002 GTC 5Speed is the free-revving 2.7L engine. Will easily redline in 3rd, 4th or 5th with plenty of torque. Can punch it to 90+ in 3rd to do freeway merge (in an emergency only, of course!). The rest of the car is pretty mediocre, build quality, engineering, sound system and little details (like no lumbar adjustment on driver's seat) all reflect the philosophy of corner/cost-cutting... resulting in very little "real value" and questionable reliability. I bought mine in December of 2007 and have put about 11K miles on it since. One other good thing - a surprise - is the 32MPG on regular gas. Because of low resale - I didn't pay a lot for this car, but it won't be worth much when I go to sell it either. 
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Replying to: pcboats (Jul 27, 2005 8:56 pm) 
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I just want to hear I'm not crazy.. that what I believe happened is POSSIBLE. In Apr. got the rear windshield in my 05 replaced (was falling out !) Dealer did work as it was under warranty. Got the car back and noticed I could hardly close the right side top latch (where it fits into header) without HUGE effort. Even had to sit in passenger side sometimes to get it to shut. It seemed to have come back to me outrageously tight but I thought (naively) "It must need to stretch out or something." Mid May I was washing the car and noticed a stress crack on the front windshield. It runs from the top on the passenger side (same area as inside right top latch) to mid windshield,and from the bottom (same area) to mid windshield. There's about a one inch uncracked space between the two cracks. I took the car back to the dealer and told them the whole story, showed them the crack, etc. Service manager agreed it was stress cracks but said since there was no proof it was due to the top being tight they'd not repair it. They also said I couldn't prove the top was tighter and that a new rear window being installed wouldnt make it tighter anyway. And.....sigh... it went out of warranty two weeks after initial work so I havent a leg to stand on. I just want to hear its POSSIBLE. Anyone else have a problem like this?
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