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Coupes & Convertibles Chrysler Sebring Chrysler Sebring Convertible
409 messages, Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:26 PM
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I posted this in the wrong discussion group yesterday so will try again. I had got out of my 1997 Sebring JXi in the driveway and noticed that the drivers side window was down. I reached in and pushed the button to close it but it stopped half way up. I lowered it all the way and tried again. This time it stopped briefly, made a horrible snapping sound and went up. I thought it had gone up properly until I closed the door. The window hit the top and in front of the door behind the mirror. What had happened was it had gone up about 2 inches higher than it should have. I pulled the door panel to see if it was out of a channel or something but when I really don't know how it works, it is hard to determine the problem. What I really wanted to do was remove the window then put it back in to see if it was out of place. Does anyone know how to remove the window? Also, I could see an adjustment at the rear side of the window to stop it, is there something like that at the front? Any other ideas about what actually happened and how to fix it would be appreciated.
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Replying to: mcginty1 (Nov 30, 2007 10:43 am) You did get a response in the other topic -- you might want to take a look at it to see if it answers your question while you're waiting for an answer here. Chrysler Sebring Transmission Issues |
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Replying to: rbhcpa (Dec 22, 2003 6:45 pm) Go for it! Real men don't care what others think! KG
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Replying to: bigeee (Dec 15, 2007 1:08 pm)
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Replying to: tedebear (Dec 15, 2007 1:21 pm) Welcome to CarSpace, bigeee - glad to have you aboard! 
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My battery will only hold a charge sometimes. Every few days My car will not start, the battery is dead, even jumping it is hard. I put a new battery in twice and soon after the same thing happens again. I jumped it one day and then drove it about 10 miles and it would not start again, the next day I jumped it and drove it about 15-20 miles and later that day it started just fine. The only thing that happens that may be unique is that when the battery is almost dead, not enough to turn it over, the ignition light (where I put the key) will filcker and quietly buzz? I have no access to a garage and I love my car, does anyone have any idea what is going on? I am ready to pull my hair out, please help if anyone can.
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Replying to: skronenwetter (Dec 29, 2007 1:51 pm) Here's a link to checking the charging system. There are a few things you might look at that the person at AutoZone won't inspect. Some things, such as corrosion, loose connections and proper tension on the alternator belt don't require any meters or special tools. http://autorepair.about.com/od/electricaltroubleshooting/a/battery_check.htm |
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| Hi, I have a 2006 Sebring convertible (Touring) and the theft alarm has been going off randomly. I have tried to de-activate by using the key rather than the remote to no avail. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks! | |
| I have a 1997 Sebring JXi convertible. At times,usually shortly after starting the car, the digital display for the odometer and automatic transmission and the tachometer quit working. After 10 or 15 minutes they come back on and stay on most the time. Only once when I was driving several hours did it go off more than once. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong? I asked a Chrysler service department and they didn't sound too encouraging. They basically said it would be hard and expensive to find the problem. I was wondering if it could be a faulty fuse or a loose ground. | |
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Replying to: mcginty1 (Jan 06, 2008 9:10 pm) You have to remove the instrument cluster from the dashboard. - not a big deal. The problem is on the circuit board on the back side of the instrument cluster. There are three ceramic power resistors( cylindrical items with color coding stripes. the resistor bodies on mine were blue) that are mounted too close to the circuit board. These get hot in operation and you will easily see where the circuit board is burned. The resistors are fine. The problem is that the solder joints that connect the resistors to the board have cracked due to thermal stress and the connection becomes intermittent. This is what causes the intermittent operation of your instrument cluster. I used some small pieces of wire to patch up the circuit board and reinforce the solder connections. When resoldering the resistor connections, I spaced the resistor bodies about 1/16 inch off the board, supported by their leads, instead of mounting them tightly against the circuit board. This removes the hot resistor from direct contact with the circuit board and gives room for air to circulate so the board won't burn again.
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