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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair

1094 messages,  Last post on Oct 21, 2009 at 5:02 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mercedes-Benz E-Class, Sedan, Wagon


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#883 of 1094
2001 E430 with bad catalytic converter by jodar96
Dec 10, 2006 (7:49 pm)
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The dealer determined that the left side underbody convertor was bad and they replaced it under their 8 year warranty. There are two catalytic conevertors on each side. After the fix, I took the car for a long drive; the rattle and the HUM in acceleration from 45-50mph are both gone.
 
My next issue with the dealer will be the tick tick sound from a cold start that sounds like a lifter noise.
#884 of 1094
99 E320 jerks by dirtyharyus
Dec 18, 2006 (10:46 am)
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Hi,
My 99 E320 kind of jerks forward or seems to not have enough gas at lower gear when I start driving in the morning and gear shift seems not correct. I do warm the car up for about 3-4mins before driving. After I drive for sometime when I slow down or stop at traffic light, I dont see this problem. What could be causing this? Bad Oxygen senor? Or is it the transmission going bad and not shifting correctly?
 
I am not too worried about the other problems but worried about transi goign bad. What are the typical symptoms of transmission going bad?
 
Thanks much in advance.
#885 of 1094
Re: tick tick sound at cold start.... by hawkeyes2
Dec 18, 2006 (3:28 pm)
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Replying to: jodar96 (Dec 10, 2006 7:49 pm)

What is that all about? I have looked at or test driven five of them, and they all tick tick when they start up for a moment. Sounds like a lifter issue, I agree. One of them started up and made that noise, very noticeably, and the guy said it would go away when warmed up. It didn't, and he told me he would have it looked at inside and call me. Then called me to tell me it was off to auction as it had a head gasket problem or leak...and they thought moisture got into the engine (water.) Why do they all do this tick thing upon start up?
#886 of 1094
Re: tick tick sound at cold start.... [hawkeyes2] by ray_h1
Dec 19, 2006 (11:33 am)
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Replying to: hawkeyes2 (Dec 18, 2006 3:28 pm)

)) "Why do they all do this tick thing upon start up?" ((
 
Oil drainback from the top-end to the sump overnight. With overhead camshaft engine designs, upon cold start, there's a brief delay circulating c-o-l-d motor oil back up to re-pressurize the top end mechanicals. Tick-tick-tick... As long as the noise clears within a minute or so, it's not considered problematic. (Or you could always drive a Hyundai Accent with mechanical lifters that require periodic adjustment maintenance... )
#887 of 1094
Re: tick tick sound at cold start.... [ray_h1] by jodar96
Dec 20, 2006 (6:40 pm)
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Replying to: ray_h1 (Dec 19, 2006 11:33 am)

When I dropped off my 2001 E430 with 84K to have them replace the catalytic converter, I told them about the cold engine noise what I describe as lifter noise. The service manager told me that a Mercedes with 84K miles does not develop a lifter noise. He said it was carbon build up around the valve seals, and they run some GM-made cleaner through one of the vacuum lines, and that fix always quiets the noise.
 
The car does not make that noise anymore. They never mentioned what I said in work order write up, and never said what they did. I just now they did something to the engine. I would have heard the noise when I start the car in the garage if they did nothing.. I still think this MB's V-8 does not come close to my 96 Camry's V-6's smoothness. Some of you may think I am crazy for saying this, but it is true.
 
Joe
#888 of 1094
Re: Safety news/ Headgasket [legendman] by ccmbduong1
Dec 23, 2006 (4:14 am)
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Replying to: legendman (Apr 07, 2005 6:57 pm)

I have noticed a very small amount of oil drops on my garage's floor. It's on the passenger side. My '96 E320 has only 75K miles. Question (1) is this a sign of head gasket leak or something else? (2) Can a good independent MB fix this problem? (3) rough cost? (4) any guaranty that the newly designed head gasket from MB permanently fix this problem?
 
Thanks for any input and suggestions
#889 of 1094
Re: Safety news/ Headgasket [ccmbduong1] by ray_h1
Dec 23, 2006 (10:18 am)
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Replying to: ccmbduong1 (Dec 23, 2006 4:14 am)

A head gasket leak could cause exterior oil dripping under certain conditions. But, before I assumed the worst, I'd be looking at the more likely possibility of a benign (if somewhat messy) valve cover gasket leak. You might remove the radiator or purge tank cap before starting up in the morning to inspect whether there's any oil floating on the surface of the visible coolant. If not, that's a reasonably good sign that your head gaskets are OK. If you do see an oil slick on the surface of the coolant, you got trouble. If oil's in the coolant, that means coolant's very likely also in the motor oil. Antifreeze contamination in motor oil is a serious matter because its presence leads to rapid erosion of the softer tin, copper, and lead bearing metals if not attended to quickly.
#890 of 1094
Re: smoking E 350, and I don't mean fast [hawkeyes2] by microrepair
Dec 27, 2006 (4:50 pm)
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Replying to: hawkeyes2 (Nov 20, 2006 4:04 pm)

Jeff,
 
I haven't logged in for a few weeks and I've missed a lot of good stuff that I can relate to. First, there are some generic things to worry about on a used MB. Both of mine needed front end rubber bushings on tie rod ends and sway bars in the 70-80 K miles range. Since both of my cars had Starmark, that repair was free. It can run as high as $1100 for replacement of ALL bushings in the front end. Symptom is a thunk in the front end as you go over small pavement cracks, etc.
 
Others have mentioned brakes and rotors. I think I've found a solution to the fast wear and the excessive dust on the wheels. A year ago I bought PB brand pads and rotors for the front end and they work as well as the MB brake parts and with almost NO dust. I've only had to wash my wheels every 3-4 months instead of every 2-3 weeks..! And the parts cost about half what the MB parts cost. I bought them from Smitty's Parts Service on the web. I just put the same stuff on the rear and expect the same results. I don't know yet if they will last much longer than the OEM parts, but for the lack of dust and for the lower cost, I am happy so far.. I had all the brake parts installed by a local mechanic for a lot less than the MB dealer's labor charge too..!
 
And since you're looking at a 99, you shouldn't have to worry too much about head gaskets. My 96 needed a head gasket at 115K miles which was 30K miles earlier than normal for the straight six. (It is a design defect on that engine!) As far as I know, the V6 is very reliable; I've heard nothing bad about it so far..
 
My '01 does have a few more gremlins of the electrical type than the 96 did, but it does have more stuff to go wrong. Nothing serious so far but every once in a while when I open the drivers door, the alarm goes off even though the door was NOT locked!! And gee, even if it were locked how would I be able to open it? This has happened 6 or 7 times in the last year and the dealer replaced a door switch, but it has done it 2 more times since then.
 
Good luck on your hunt for a clean one..!
 
Fred
#891 of 1094
Re: 2006 E350 Climate control [tnguyen17] by microrepair
Dec 27, 2006 (4:55 pm)
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Replying to: tnguyen17 (Dec 01, 2006 8:18 am)

When I got my first E-class ( a used 96) I couldn't believe how bad the AC was and complained to the service dept. at my dealership. The simple fix was to make sure that the center vent outlets on the dashboard were NOT aimed upwards, but aimed horizontal or downward. When the vents are sending air UP, the air is aimed directly at the cabin temperature sensor mounted above the rear view mirror and totally fools the system's computer..! Once I aimed the center vents horizontally, the AC worked great!!!
 
This might be a big part of your problem..
#892 of 1094
Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [jodar96] by microrepair
Dec 27, 2006 (5:05 pm)
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Replying to: jodar96 (Dec 05, 2006 6:51 pm)

I had the same rattle on my 2001 E320 a few weeks back and drove to the dealer as soon as I could get there. I was afraid something was about to fall off or otherwise self destruct. As soon as the service manager walked up the car, he smiled and said it was a converter. They checked it out with some fancy gizmo a few days later and said the other converter was alright but the right hand one had gone bad and would not pass inspection unless replaced. They quoted $970 and I screamed in pain.. I too thought that all emissions parts were covered under federal law to 100K miles. So I went to my local mechanic who replaced it for about $830 even though he had to pay the MB price for the converter itself.
 
I had searched the internet for cheaper converters and asked my mechanic about them. His advice is to stay away from them because the 3rd party ones don't have the full load of precious metals needed to last for a reasonable time. He did a cheap one for a customer last year and in 3 months it had gone bad and then the customer had to pay for the OEM part anyway.
 
I had forgotten that the left side converter was replaced by the dealer under warranty at around 65K miles. My 96 had never needed a converter when I finally sold it at 140K miles. Converters are just one more item that MB has chosen to cheapen up...!

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