- #877 of 1094
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Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [jodar96]
by ray_h1
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Dec 06, 2006 (10:22 am)
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Replying to: jodar96 (Dec 05, 2006 6:51 pm)
The extended Federal Emissions Warranty for catalytic converters is 8 yrs/80,000 miles so it appears the catalytic converter replacement will be on your nickel. The other unit probably is not far behind. Some motor oil formulations are heavy in their zinc dialkyl-dithiophosphate additive treat rate used as an antiwear agent (for which it's very effective - and cheap to boot). Inevitably any reciprocating internal combustion engine will burn at least some of its motor oil - and the rate at which it does so will increase proportionately to its age. Consequently, some zinc and phosphate ash is sent into the exhaust stream. Unfortunately, both zinc and phosphate are highly suspected catalytic converter killers since those elements can "poison" the catalyst-coated ceramic beads inside catalytic converters over time. When the clearance between beads is reduced too much from the coating effect of the ZDDP combustion byproducts, the back pressure of exhaust gas trying to "squeeze" through the reduced space will bust the support grills holding the beads. Rattle-rattle. Newer motor oils for American, Japanese, and Korean engines use reduced amounts of ZDDP along with the substitution of highly effective, but pricier boron and molybdenum as alternate antiwear agents. Virtually all American motor oils are formulated with this in mind. These newer agents are also much less of a threat to catalytic converters. So far the pricey European synthetics mandated for Euro-cars are holding fast to traditional levles of ZDDP, though. Since the European union tests motor oils to different standards than does the rest of the automotive world, substituting commonly available American oils may not be in a Euro-car owner's best interest long term. There'll be a further reduction of ZDDP in the next generation motor oils in three years for American, Japanese, and Korean engines. I guess BMW, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lamborghini, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Volkswagen, etc. reason the patrician class capable of entry into Euro-car automotive exclusivity can likewise afford the more frequent emission system component replacements.
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- #878 of 1094
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Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [ray_h1]
by bigrobnh
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Dec 06, 2006 (10:29 am)
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Replying to: ray_h1 (Dec 06, 2006 10:22 am)
The benz dealer I go to uses Mobil-1 synthetic. Is that American or one of these pricey Europeans?
BigRob.
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- #879 of 1094
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Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [ray_h1]
by jodar96
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Dec 07, 2006 (7:01 am)
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Replying to: ray_h1 (Dec 06, 2006 10:22 am)
Guys, thanks for all of your reponses. The car is at the dealer now. I will be very ticked off if they tell me I need to pay for all of it. I don't mind paying some of it. As I said, the last time I had a catalytic converter problem, it was with my 1977 Buick. With 14 cars/trucks since 1978, this is the second car with this issue. The problem started with a HUM when I was accelerating from 50-60mph in the left lane. Now it apears that increased exhaust gas flow was being slowed down in the converter, causing the hum.
Your explaination with European spec oil does not explain why the car has issue with Mobil 1. Are you saying anyone using this oil will have catalytic convertor problem? Since new,when it was serviced at the dealer they used Mobile 1, I have changed the oil myself with Mobil 1 and have kept my receipt. The engine also has a cold start up tick tick noise. Is it the lifter noise? What is your thought on that. When the engine warms up, it stops.
What about the theory that Mercedes could have had a convertor supplier problem? material batch problem from tier 2 suppliers? or processesing problem at the supplier?
I am still not sure giving up my truely flawless 1996 Toyota Camry XLE V6 with 93K miles for this MB was a good idea. This MB is a great highway cruiser. With some 500 Ibs less weight, the Camry felt slightly light at 75-80, but ran flawlessly. The only dealer maiantenance was a $150 timing belt. In 10 years, that was IT. It also used any
on-sale 5W-30 motor oil, and never complained.
Joe
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- #880 of 1094
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heated seats not so hot
by revras
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Dec 09, 2006 (9:08 am)
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I just took delivery on a 2007 e350 and have noticed that the heated seats do not really heat much at all, on the highest heat setting it is barely warm. I previously had a 2005 e class which would roast you if you so desired. Has anyone else experienced this situation? Could this be a bad fuse etc or has their been a change in the whole mechanism?
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- #881 of 1094
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Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [bigrobnh]
by ray_h1
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Dec 09, 2006 (9:28 am)
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Replying to: bigrobnh (Dec 06, 2006 10:29 am)
Definitely American. According to Mobil's website, "Mobil 1 0W-40" is certified to meet the MB 229.5 certification. The only American lube I know of for certain that does meet Mercedes-Benz revised 229.51 spec is "Amsoil Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil". There may be others including the Mobil 1 if the website hasn't been updated to reflect a recent formulation change. I do not know what the ".51" suffix brings to the table or whether it's necessary for your model year engine - check your owner's manual on that.
(I am NOT an Amsoil distributor - just an obsessive-compulsive, self-servicing, non-Benz, car owner.)
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- #882 of 1094
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Re: heated seats not so hot [revras]
by greasykid1
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Dec 09, 2006 (11:23 am)
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Replying to: revras (Dec 09, 2006 9:08 am)
Don't know about 2007 E but my 2005 has toasters in the seats
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- #883 of 1094
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2001 E430 with bad catalytic converter
by jodar96
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Dec 10, 2006 (7:49 pm)
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The dealer determined that the left side underbody convertor was bad and they replaced it under their 8 year warranty. There are two catalytic conevertors on each side. After the fix, I took the car for a long drive; the rattle and the HUM in acceleration from 45-50mph are both gone.
My next issue with the dealer will be the tick tick sound from a cold start that sounds like a lifter noise.
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- #884 of 1094
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99 E320 jerks
by dirtyharyus
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Dec 18, 2006 (10:46 am)
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Hi,
My 99 E320 kind of jerks forward or seems to not have enough gas at lower gear when I start driving in the morning and gear shift seems not correct. I do warm the car up for about 3-4mins before driving. After I drive for sometime when I slow down or stop at traffic light, I dont see this problem. What could be causing this? Bad Oxygen senor? Or is it the transmission going bad and not shifting correctly?
I am not too worried about the other problems but worried about transi goign bad. What are the typical symptoms of transmission going bad?
Thanks much in advance.
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- #885 of 1094
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Re: tick tick sound at cold start....
by hawkeyes2
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Dec 18, 2006 (3:28 pm)
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Replying to: jodar96 (Dec 10, 2006 7:49 pm)
What is that all about? I have looked at or test driven five of them, and they all tick tick when they start up for a moment. Sounds like a lifter issue, I agree. One of them started up and made that noise, very noticeably, and the guy said it would go away when warmed up. It didn't, and he told me he would have it looked at inside and call me. Then called me to tell me it was off to auction as it had a head gasket problem or leak...and they thought moisture got into the engine (water.) Why do they all do this tick thing upon start up?
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- #886 of 1094
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Re: tick tick sound at cold start.... [hawkeyes2]
by ray_h1
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Dec 19, 2006 (11:33 am)
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Replying to: hawkeyes2 (Dec 18, 2006 3:28 pm)
)) "Why do they all do this tick thing upon start up?" ((
Oil drainback from the top-end to the sump overnight. With overhead camshaft engine designs, upon cold start, there's a brief delay circulating c-o-l-d motor oil back up to re-pressurize the top end mechanicals. Tick-tick-tick... As long as the noise clears within a minute or so, it's not considered problematic. (Or you could always drive a Hyundai Accent with mechanical lifters that require periodic adjustment maintenance...  )
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