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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair

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#870 of 1094 Update on smoking E 350 by engineer1 Nov 28, 2006 (4:56 pm)
Did some tests-start car-let run a minute or so-shut it off and restart in 30 minutes. No smoke-so much for my theory.    Took car to MB dealer. Usual and totally expected response. Customer knows nothing-never heard of this problem before-probably condensation. MB did a software update on oil pressure monitor. Maybe clue. Does MB control oil pressure with computer? If so, this could be explanation-upon startup oil pressure sometimes too high over oiling pistons resulting in blue smoke. Anyone know anything about how MB controls oil pressure in new 3.5 engine? Would make sense though I have never heard of this before.    If it keeps it up, before warranty expires I will wave magic wand over the MB, sprinkle some foo-foo dust on it and turn it into a Lexus. That will fix the problem! Replies to this message: engineer1 (Jan 15, 2007 10:12 am) gbeaudoin (Nov 08, 2008 5:50 pm)
#871 of 1094 Why is there no E350 problems? by ray00edm Nov 29, 2006 (1:05 pm)
I bought an E350 loaded when it first came out last year. I found that there has almost no mention of the problems associated with it here. Am I in the wrong group? Replies to this message: hawkeyes2 (Nov 29, 2006 4:55 pm)
#872 of 1094 Re: Why is there no E350 problems? [ray00edm] by hawkeyes2 Nov 29, 2006 (4:55 pm)
Replying to: ray00edm (Nov 29, 2006 1:05 pm) I originally responded to an E 320 post. But the more I know about the product, the better I feel. Still torn between the LS 400 and the E 320. Drove an E 320 yesterday, 1999, perfect. Started it up and the engine had a tick, tick, tick. I mentioned it, guy said it would stop when it warmed up. I knew he was full of crap, but thought I would drive it for the heck of it. I thought about a head problem, and they said it was a head casket, leaked, or let water into the engine, so they were actually going to push it out wholesale and would not sell it.   Still waiting. E 320 is 30% cheaper than a LS 400 of same year. I know why, I just like the price and E 320 look better.
#873 of 1094 2006 E350 Climate control by tnguyen17 Dec 01, 2006 (8:18 am)
The climate control for this car never work.   Outside temp 65 degrees Cabin temp 70 degrees I turned the tempurature knob to 76 degrees, then pushed Auto button, cold comes out the vents.   and   Outside temp 78 degrees Cabin temp 85 degrees I turned tempurature knob to 76 degrees, then pushed Auto button, Hot air comes out the vents. Drove around for 30 minutes, Air condition never kick in. I have proved this to Mercedes dealership, and they said the car is at factory specification.   TBN Replies to this message: microrepair (Dec 27, 2006 4:55 pm)
#875 of 1094 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? by jodar96 Dec 05, 2006 (6:51 pm)
Several days ago, my E430 with 84K miles developed a rattle that I have been hearing at take off, and at idling when the engine is warm. It sounded like some metalic bracket/hanger was loose.   I jacked up the car tonight and with a rag held on to both catalytic convertors one at a time while engine was running. I did feel some rattles inside passenger side convertor. All brackets and hangers were tight.   Are the baffles inside the convertor breaking up? The engine runs fine, no check engine light, and the gas mileage still good.   Has anyone had this issue? Does MB have any warranty on convertors? My last car with a bad catalytic convertor was my 1977 Buick Skylark back in 1983.   I use 92-93 octane gas only, and the engine has never misfired or backfired.   Thanks, Joe Replies to this message: turquoise_e1 (Dec 05, 2006 10:53 pm) ray_h1 (Dec 06, 2006 10:22 am) bigrobnh (Dec 06, 2006 10:29 am) ray_h1 (Dec 09, 2006 9:28 am) jodar96 (Dec 07, 2006 7:01 am) microrepair (Dec 27, 2006 5:05 pm) jodar96 (Dec 28, 2006 9:15 am) microrepair (Jan 05, 2007 2:43 pm) and 2 more... 3screwsloose (Feb 03, 2007 3:41 pm)
#876 of 1094 Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [jodar96] by turquoise_e1 Dec 05, 2006 (10:53 pm)
Replying to: jodar96 (Dec 05, 2006 6:51 pm) Joe, I had the same rattle in my 2000 E320 earlier this year and it was due to the converter broken into pieces. They need to be replaced. The converter costs $600+ material and a dealer workshop would charge $1000+ (incl labor) for it. But, I understand that Fed Law requires manufacturer to fix any catalytic converter problem if the car is less than 8 year old. I got mine fixed by MBUSA; the service manager took care of the paperwork. It may not hurt to talk to your service advisor or research about this 8 year old law that I read in some Edmund's forums.
#877 of 1094 Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [jodar96] by ray_h1 Dec 06, 2006 (10:22 am)
Replying to: jodar96 (Dec 05, 2006 6:51 pm) The extended Federal Emissions Warranty for catalytic converters is 8 yrs/80,000 miles so it appears the catalytic converter replacement will be on your nickel. The other unit probably is not far behind. Some motor oil formulations are heavy in their zinc dialkyl-dithiophosphate additive treat rate used as an antiwear agent (for which it's very effective - and cheap to boot). Inevitably any reciprocating internal combustion engine will burn at least some of its motor oil - and the rate at which it does so will increase proportionately to its age. Consequently, some zinc and phosphate ash is sent into the exhaust stream. Unfortunately, both zinc and phosphate are highly suspected catalytic converter killers since those elements can "poison" the catalyst-coated ceramic beads inside catalytic converters over time. When the clearance between beads is reduced too much from the coating effect of the ZDDP combustion byproducts, the back pressure of exhaust gas trying to "squeeze" through the reduced space will bust the support grills holding the beads. Rattle-rattle. Newer motor oils for American, Japanese, and Korean engines use reduced amounts of ZDDP along with the substitution of highly effective, but pricier boron and molybdenum as alternate antiwear agents. Virtually all American motor oils are formulated with this in mind. These newer agents are also much less of a threat to catalytic converters. So far the pricey European synthetics mandated for Euro-cars are holding fast to traditional levles of ZDDP, though. Since the European union tests motor oils to different standards than does the rest of the automotive world, substituting commonly available American oils may not be in a Euro-car owner's best interest long term. There'll be a further reduction of ZDDP in the next generation motor oils in three years for American, Japanese, and Korean engines. I guess BMW, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lamborghini, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Volkswagen, etc. reason the patrician class capable of entry into Euro-car automotive exclusivity can likewise afford the more frequent emission system component replacements. Replies to this message: bigrobnh (Dec 06, 2006 10:29 am) ray_h1 (Dec 09, 2006 9:28 am) jodar96 (Dec 07, 2006 7:01 am)
#878 of 1094 Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [ray_h1] by bigrobnh Dec 06, 2006 (10:29 am)
Replying to: ray_h1 (Dec 06, 2006 10:22 am) The benz dealer I go to uses Mobil-1 synthetic. Is that American or one of these pricey Europeans?   BigRob. Replies to this message: ray_h1 (Dec 09, 2006 9:28 am)
#879 of 1094 Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [ray_h1] by jodar96 Dec 07, 2006 (7:01 am)
Replying to: ray_h1 (Dec 06, 2006 10:22 am) Guys, thanks for all of your reponses. The car is at the dealer now. I will be very ticked off if they tell me I need to pay for all of it. I don't mind paying some of it. As I said, the last time I had a catalytic converter problem, it was with my 1977 Buick. With 14 cars/trucks since 1978, this is the second car with this issue. The problem started with a HUM when I was accelerating from 50-60mph in the left lane. Now it apears that increased exhaust gas flow was being slowed down in the converter, causing the hum.   Your explaination with European spec oil does not explain why the car has issue with Mobil 1. Are you saying anyone using this oil will have catalytic convertor problem? Since new,when it was serviced at the dealer they used Mobile 1, I have changed the oil myself with Mobil 1 and have kept my receipt. The engine also has a cold start up tick tick noise. Is it the lifter noise? What is your thought on that. When the engine warms up, it stops.     What about the theory that Mercedes could have had a convertor supplier problem? material batch problem from tier 2 suppliers? or processesing problem at the supplier?   I am still not sure giving up my truely flawless 1996 Toyota Camry XLE V6 with 93K miles for this MB was a good idea. This MB is a great highway cruiser. With some 500 Ibs less weight, the Camry felt slightly light at 75-80, but ran flawlessly. The only dealer maiantenance was a $150 timing belt. In 10 years, that was IT. It also used any on-sale 5W-30 motor oil, and never complained.   Joe

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