Last post on Dec 25, 2012 at 11:19 AM
You are in the Mercedes-Benz E-Class
What is this discussion about?
Mercedes-Benz E-Class, Sedan, Wagon
#869 of 1173 Re: smoking E 350, and I don't mean fast [hawkeyes2]
Nov 25, 2006 (2:43 pm)
You wrote, "I would rather have the silver E 320 at 1999 or so for less. Anything that I need to watch for as far as normal repairs in the first 100,000 miles? The salesperson always says nothing, but my Midas guy says pads and Rotors up front cost $600 and go quickly...due to the pads being too hard and the rotors too soft. THanks...anything else I should watch for on this vehicle?"
I purchased a '99 E-320 4Matic Wagon with 56k miles and have been very happy overall with it as it approaches the 100k mark. Beautiful driving and handling characteristics, solid, safe, perfect for the wife/kid.
Repair experiences: The front brake pads lasted 32k miles between replacements which I didn't feel was too bad. We did have to spring for a catalytic converter at 93k but most manufacturers don't make them to last past 80-100k so I'm comfortable with that as well. Got 40k miles on the stock Continental tires. I was disappointed when the sun roof stopped sliding past about 3 inches at 82k miles and will opt to fix that after the rainy season. Replaced a brake switch and a smattering of bulbs. But overall, nothing really serious to complain about so I'm happy.
From what I've read (including Consumer Reports), you may do better to stick to the '99 or earlier models for a used E-320. Mercedes is working feverishly to repair their tarnished reputation for way too many electrical problems so I would wait till 2008 if I was in the market for a new one. Good Luck!
#870 of 1173 Update on smoking E 350
Nov 28, 2006 (4:56 pm)
Did some tests-start car-let run a minute or so-shut it off and restart in 30 minutes. No smoke-so much for my theory.
Took car to MB dealer. Usual and totally expected response. Customer knows nothing-never heard of this problem before-probably condensation. MB did a software update on oil pressure monitor. Maybe clue. Does MB control oil pressure with computer? If so, this could be explanation-upon startup oil pressure sometimes too high over oiling pistons resulting in blue smoke. Anyone know anything about how MB controls oil pressure in new 3.5 engine? Would make sense though I have never heard of this before.
If it keeps it up, before warranty expires I will wave magic wand over the MB, sprinkle some foo-foo dust on it and turn it into a Lexus. That will fix the problem!
#871 of 1173 Why is there no E350 problems?
Nov 29, 2006 (1:05 pm)
I bought an E350 loaded when it first came out last year. I found that there has almost no mention of the problems associated with it here. Am I in the wrong group?
#872 of 1173 Re: Why is there no E350 problems? [ray00edm]
Nov 29, 2006 (4:55 pm)
I originally responded to an E 320 post. But the more I know about the product, the better I feel. Still torn between the LS 400 and the E 320.
Drove an E 320 yesterday, 1999, perfect. Started it up and the engine had a tick, tick, tick. I mentioned it, guy said it would stop when it warmed up. I knew he was full of crap, but thought I would drive it for the heck of it.
I thought about a head problem, and they said it was a head casket, leaked, or let water into the engine, so they were actually going to push it out wholesale and would not sell it.
Still waiting. E 320 is 30% cheaper than a LS 400 of same year. I know why, I just like the price and E 320 look better.
#873 of 1173 2006 E350 Climate control
Dec 01, 2006 (8:18 am)
The climate control for this car never work.
Outside temp 65 degrees
Cabin temp 70 degrees
I turned the tempurature knob to 76 degrees, then pushed Auto button, cold comes out the vents.
Outside temp 78 degrees
Cabin temp 85 degrees
I turned tempurature knob to 76 degrees, then pushed Auto button, Hot air comes out the vents. Drove around for 30 minutes, Air condition never kick in.
I have proved this to Mercedes dealership, and they said the car is at factory specification.
#875 of 1173 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor??
Dec 05, 2006 (6:51 pm)
Several days ago, my E430 with 84K miles developed a rattle that I have been hearing at take off, and at idling when the engine is warm. It sounded like some metalic bracket/hanger was loose.
I jacked up the car tonight and with a rag held on to both catalytic convertors one at a time while engine was running.
I did feel some rattles inside passenger side convertor. All brackets and hangers were tight.
Are the baffles inside the convertor breaking up? The engine runs fine, no check engine light, and the gas mileage still good.
Has anyone had this issue? Does MB have any warranty on convertors? My last car with a bad catalytic convertor was my 1977 Buick Skylark back in 1983.
I use 92-93 octane gas only, and the engine has never misfired or backfired.
#876 of 1173 Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [jodar96]
Dec 05, 2006 (10:53 pm)
Joe, I had the same rattle in my 2000 E320 earlier this year and it was due to the converter broken into pieces. They need to be replaced. The converter costs $600+ material and a dealer workshop would charge $1000+ (incl labor) for it. But, I understand that Fed Law requires manufacturer to fix any catalytic converter problem if the car is less than 8 year old. I got mine fixed by MBUSA; the service manager took care of the paperwork. It may not hurt to talk to your service advisor or research about this 8 year old law that I read in some Edmund's forums.
#877 of 1173 Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [jodar96]
Dec 06, 2006 (10:22 am)
The extended Federal Emissions Warranty for catalytic converters is 8 yrs/80,000 miles so it appears the catalytic converter replacement will be on your nickel. The other unit probably is not far behind. Some motor oil formulations are heavy in their zinc dialkyl-dithiophosphate additive treat rate used as an antiwear agent (for which it's very effective - and cheap to boot). Inevitably any reciprocating internal combustion engine will burn at least some of its motor oil - and the rate at which it does so will increase proportionately to its age. Consequently, some zinc and phosphate ash is sent into the exhaust stream. Unfortunately, both zinc and phosphate are highly suspected catalytic converter killers since those elements can "poison" the catalyst-coated ceramic beads inside catalytic converters over time. When the clearance between beads is reduced too much from the coating effect of the ZDDP combustion byproducts, the back pressure of exhaust gas trying to "squeeze" through the reduced space will bust the support grills holding the beads. Rattle-rattle. Newer motor oils for American, Japanese, and Korean engines use reduced amounts of ZDDP along with the substitution of highly effective, but pricier boron and molybdenum as alternate antiwear agents. Virtually all American motor oils are formulated with this in mind. These newer agents are also much less of a threat to catalytic converters. So far the pricey European synthetics mandated for Euro-cars are holding fast to traditional levles of ZDDP, though. Since the European union tests motor oils to different standards than does the rest of the automotive world, substituting commonly available American oils may not be in a Euro-car owner's best interest long term. There'll be a further reduction of ZDDP in the next generation motor oils in three years for American, Japanese, and Korean engines. I guess BMW, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lamborghini, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Volkswagen, etc. reason the patrician class capable of entry into Euro-car automotive exclusivity can likewise afford the more frequent emission system component replacements.
#878 of 1173 Re: 2001 E430 Bad Catalytic Convertor?? [ray_h1]
Dec 06, 2006 (10:29 am)
The benz dealer I go to uses Mobil-1 synthetic. Is that American or one of these pricey Europeans?