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Sedans Mercedes-Benz E-Class Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair
1094 messages, Last post on Oct 21, 2009 at 5:02 PM
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Have a 97 E320. My wife is petite so she puts the seat really far up front. Every once in awhile I drive the car so I have to move the seat back. Not really a problem because we just store our settings in the memory seat. Awhile back I noticed that the seat wouldn't move back from my position. I'm only 5'-8". I last drove the car a week ago and then the wife has been driving it since. Well today I tried to adjust the seat back and it starts moving but then stops - like something is stopping the seat. All other seat movements work fine (up/down etc.) it's just that when the seat moves back it only goes so far and then stops - it goes forward without any problems. It doesn't even move back to the previously stored position any more. When I push the button to move the seat back I can hear the motor working but the seat doesn't want to go back any further. Anyone have any ideas as to the cause and fix. Hate to take it to the dealer who will charge me an arm and a leg just to identify the problem and then probably recommend replacing the entire seat! |
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Replying to: jodar96 (Sep 29, 2006 2:42 pm) 1. Install a 1200CCA gel cell. 2. Install a "battery buddy" ...insures no more battery problems (..google it ..to find ..piece of cake to install). The clicking ...wacked battery ..your electronics will suffer ...resets, etc. Sincerely |
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| My 94 E320 has the most annoying buzzer that blares when the door is opened, the lights are on or the key is in the ignition. Has always driven me nuts. Has anyone tried to disconect this little monster? Has anyone opened the dashboard in back of the speedo? Seems like thats where it is located.. Any help would be appriciated. | |
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Update...Lats night I put a battery charger on it, it should weak battery. In less than two hours, showed the battery was charged, cranked and it started fine. This morning dead again, Put a new MB battery in it, Started fine. As message 830 said, I have resetting problems. The ABS/BAS lights are on and the radio says CODE. I think I need to take it back to the dealer to reset things. I hate this about the car. Why do I have to reset anything if I am replacing a dead battery. Can they add something to programming that recognizes a weak crank as a result of a weak/dead battery. I do not have all the owner manual stuff that shows the radio code. Leave it to Germans to complicate simple tasks. It is odd, I thought may be I loose the clock, trip odometer, and radio station settings. Clock and trip odometers kept their settings and ABS light is on!! Joe |
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I got every thing reset after replacing the battery except the radio. I do not have the card for radio code. Can the dealer tell me what the code is by the VIN, or do they need to take the radio out, check the serial#, and then determine the code? Does anyone know? Thanks, Joe
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I have a '94 SL500 5L and noticed about a year ago, when traveling across the Smoky Mountains, that my oil pressure dropped to 0 at the higher altitude (4,000 feetish) and the engine temperature was about at 180. If I dropped down to 2nd and kept the revs above about 3,000 the oil pressure would be OK. It didn't help when coasting down hill, but eventually the enginge temperature would drop some and the problem would go away. I noticed it again later, when not in the mountains, when I would use 2nd for a short period of time and then go back to 3rd or Drive. It happened again this past weekend going back over the mountains, and dropping to 2nd seemed to be the cure until I got back to somehwhat lower engine temps. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
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| My 1994 SL500 gives a dull clunk sound which I would guess comes from the right rear wheel area. It is hard to tell while driving exactly where it comes from, so that is a guess. I will happen when I go ovre something not much bigger than a crack in the road, and sometimes it will happen for no apparent reason. I had the tires rotated recently and asked them to check my shocks, but they said all look fine. It has been going on for about two years, never in the Summer, and the Winters here in Tennessee are not that cold, and it doesn't have to be below freezing for the sound to appear. Thanks for any help. | |
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Replying to: knoxburg (Oct 02, 2006 8:47 am) This is not something you want to mess around with, though, and you should have the problem verified asap. If you lose the engine in that car, it is essentially totalled, as a rebuild will cost you $15,000.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Oct 02, 2006 9:25 am)
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Engine temperatures reaching 180 degrees is not a good thing... Even under hard operating conditions, the engine temperature should not exceed 120-130 degrees. High engine compartment temperatures can easily ignite fuel canisters, alternators, wiring harness and such....resulting in under hood fires, serious damage and great, great expense. If my '93 500 SL engine temperature ever spiked that high, I would definitely have an expert check the engine cooling and exhaust systems.
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