Last post on Dec 25, 2012 at 11:19 AM
You are in the Mercedes-Benz E-Class
What is this discussion about?
Mercedes-Benz E-Class, Sedan, Wagon
#751 of 1173 Re: 2004 E320 humming noise beneath hood when unlocking [two_olives]
Mar 21, 2006 (6:27 am)
Probably normal. Your car has SBC brakes. Do a google search for Mercedes Benz forums and search SBC brake. There are reams of info on this. There are TSB's to reduce the noise for some cars (but not eliminate it); ask your service advisor to look up the maintenance records to see if the TSB has been applied, and if not, if one is available.
Of course, ask to test out another car like yours and to compare. The SBC pump often will run when you open the door or when you turn on the car.
#752 of 1173 1988 Mercedes 300E Heater Blower
Mar 22, 2006 (11:38 am)
My 1988 Mercedes 300E blower motor does not work. It just stopped working. I don't know if it's defective motor or some other component that is the problem. I hesitate to replace the blower motor. Anyone out there who can guide me through this problem?
#753 of 1173 Enough, enough....
Mar 23, 2006 (9:14 am)
I am the proud owner of a 95' E-320 sedan and its quality, reliability and attraction has never been an issue for
me (German-made). MB has been building luxury cars for almost a century, begining in Sindelfingen, Germany in 1910 and its reputation was impeccable until the decision was made to mass produce these vehicles in the USA. Perhaps all the problems rest with American "work ethic" and not MB.
#755 of 1173 Need help from hand-on owners for maintenance
Mar 24, 2006 (12:40 pm)
I just bought a 2001 E430 RWD with 72K miles. I need help with a few things as I will be doing my own oil change, coolant flush, brake pads and rotor changes, and cabin
>filter changes. The MB dealer charges $250 for schedule A, and some $450 for schedule B. It is amazing that besides oil/filter, and cabin air filter change, the rest is all inspection!!! If they have to replace anything they charge you more. I do not believe in putting Mobil 1 in and forget about oil change for 14K miles. I don't care what the FSS says, however I will continue to use Mobile 1 since it is specified.
>Where is the FSS rest botton?
>Where is the cabin filter located?
>What is the wrench size for oil drain plug?
>Can I use regular $6 paper element Bosch oil filter instead of $19 fleece type filter? I will not go more than 6K miles between oil changes as they say Fleece type is suitable for long servive intervals.
>I do appreciate the help with my questions.
#756 of 1173 E240 W210 Yr 2001 AC Blower running non-stop
Mar 24, 2006 (10:10 pm)
I have tested the 3 pin wires using a Multimeter.
(1) Test the middle pin with AC switch disconnected--->0 Volts & plugging the 3 pin wire to the Blower turn ON full blast
(2) Test the middle pin with AC Switch connected ----->12 Volts & plugging the 3 pin wire to the Blower turn ON full blast
(3) Test the middle pin with AC switch connected (a) Switch 1---> 11 Volts (b) Switch 2--->10 Volts (c) Switch 3--->9 Volts (d) Switch 4--->8 Volts (e) Switch 5--->5.5 Volts
(4) With Engine On, test the middle pin with AC switch connected (a) Switch 1---> 12.5 Volts (b) Switch 2--->12 Volts (c) Switch 3--->11 Volts (d) Switch 4--->10 Volts (e) Switch 5--->7 Volts
Whats odd is that the Blower keep blasting away with or without the AC Switch connected or disconnected.
But the Multimeter detected 12 Volts in the middle pin when the AC Swicth is connected but 0 Volts when discoonected?
#757 of 1173 2 Window regulators gone bad on 97 e420
Mar 26, 2006 (12:14 am)
I have had to replace both rear window regulators on my 1997 e420. They went bad within a year of each other. I was driving down the road and heard a loud bang and then the drivers side rear window fell into the door frame. I almost peed my pants thinking my car had been shot at!! Thankfully the window did not break.. when we took the interior door panel off, surveyed the damage, it was all due to the cheap plastic pullies that ar used. they get brittle and break because the window switch does not have an auto stop feature allowing you to keep trying to close it after the fact, well the pressure can be enough to snap the cheap plastic pully, and BLAM...goes the window! of course you have to replace the entire window regulator with motor about runs $275.00-$375.00 if purchased at dealer..no authentic MB regulators w/out motor are available without serious internet hunting.. plus to remove the old regulator, you must drill out the rivets ..one slip of that drill and you got a nasty hole in your door(not for the faint of heart)
I suggest anyone who lives in a climate like ours where the summers get to 100-112 for weeks on end to invest in spare regulators... as it is only a matter of time
#758 of 1173 Re: Need help from hand-on owners for maintenance [jodar96]
Mar 28, 2006 (10:42 am)
When you change the oil, be certain to use the most recently specified 229.5 oil and a fleece oil filter. If you use those oils and a fleece filter and have oil consumption issues MBUSA will honor warranty claims up to 150,000 miles. The easiest 229.5 oil to find is Mobil 1 0W40. Some Walmarts stock it. My 3.2 takes 8.5 quarts of oil, and requires the $20ish fleece oil filter. I'm not certain if the 4.3 requires more. There is absolutely no reason to waste your $70 and time changing the oil more frequently than specified by FSS. Methods of resetting FSS are in the owner's manual, as your car's specific equipment level can mean you need to use a different method than others. In mine, you turn the key to position 2, wait exactly 8 seconds and push the trip odo reset button while turning the key and jumping up and down and saying you will reset you will reset...or something equally ridiculous...As long as you use the Mobil 1 0W40 and a fleece oil filter, you are protected by *TWO* warranties, the Mercedes class action suit http://www.lubereport.com/e_article000146166.cfm?x=a1F3Slh,a101R1PT and the Mobil 1 oil warranty. http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Warranty.aspx
My two cents...
#759 of 1173 Re: Need help from hand-on owners for maintenance [dgcamero]
Mar 31, 2006 (4:25 pm)
Thank you for your comments. This E430 with 72K miles has been maintained by the dealer. I have the A and B schedule records, yet when I took the filler cap off, the cap bottom, and all ID part of the metal part of the neck had dark and burnt oil look and DEPOSIT. My 93 Ford Ranger with 145K miles has cleaner looking oil cap or filler neck neck than this MB does. I do not like the thought of using $5.50 a quart synthetic and go with what the FSS says. I think car manufacturers get into who can go further with the longest oil changes. If I ignore the FSS interval, and change the oil every 3-4K, can I go with regular oil and paper filters?
The owner manual is missing and they have ordered one. Once I get it, I am sure it will answer a lot of my questions.
You are correct. Walmart does carry both 0w40 and 15W50 oil weights. I just have a problem with using synthetic when I used regular oil all my life. I have never ever had engine problem ever. I just don't know what makes the MB so unique. In Middle East, I know tons of these MB are driving around, and I KNOW in those countries they don't have the $ or variety of oil range options that we have in the US.
#760 of 1173 Intermitent Starting Problem
Apr 01, 2006 (3:05 pm)
I have a 2000 E320 with 127,000 miles. A week ago, I drove the car down the street then stopped to wait for my son's bus. I turned the key slightly to get the radio to work and left that on for 4-5 minutes, following which the car would not start. There was a "turning" sound as if the car was trying to start but it would not. I tried 2-3 times over a few minutes with the same result. I went to it 15 minutes later and it started fine.
The following day after starting the car, I drove a couple of blocks and stopped at a stoplight, put the car in park, and the engine stopped, with the same sound as when it would not start. It started right up after that.
Today it did the same as the first time. Coming to the car when it had been off for several hours, it would not start and gave the same sound. Tried 2-3 times with same result, then 15 minutes later it started fine.
I had the car in the shop last week and they checked the battery and alternator and said they were good, and they couldn't tell what was causing it. Today I took it back and they said the same thing. There is no malfunction light. He suggested that it could be the key, which may not be connecting right to get the anti theft function off. He named several other things it could be but said he can't test for those unless they are happening, and it's starting fine now.
Any ideas? thanks in advance.