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Sedans Mercedes-Benz E-Class Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair
1094 messages, Last post on Oct 21, 2009 at 5:02 PM
You are in the Mercedes-Benz E-Class Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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My 2001 E320's alarm system is acting badly.. When I leave the car and activate the alarm, sometimes the horn will start blowing every second after about a 20 second delay. It acts like someone has broken in to the car. Other times the parking lights will start to flash on a one second interval immediately after activating the alarm. When either of these things happen I can deactivate the alarm, BUT, after about 20 seconds that car locks itself and starts with either the horn or the parking lights again. And no matter how many times I turn off the alarm, it self activates 20 seconds later..!!! The only way to stop it from doing this is to start up the engine and then turn it off. Then I just leave the car unlocked and risk having it entered illegally..! The local alarm/auto electric folks won't touch the MB factory alarm system so it's the dealer or nothing. ANy thoughts on what this might be and maybe even an approx. cost to fix?   
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I am looking to buy a 2005 E320 with about 70,000 miles. I've read many issues with the 03 and 04 models. Is the 05 reliable What type of issues have people experienced with the 05 model, and around how much have people spent fixing those issues. Any information would be much appreciated. Thanks much. |
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| Just wondering what people here are paying to have the dealer perform Service F for a 2006 E350 with 32K miles. This is the first time I'm taking mine. If anyone had it done by an independent shop specializing in MBs, that will also be appreciated. I'm particularly interested in those who live in the San Francisco/Oakland/Pleasanton area. Thanks! | |
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Anyone has experience or recommendation for independent MB service shops (non-dealer) in San Diego or north coastal SD area. Thanks!
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Replying to: turquoise_e1 (Oct 07, 2008 1:04 pm) |
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My vehicle won't shift into gear and the selector range on the cluster does not display. After manually shifting trans into gear it would only drive in limp mode. Has anyone else had this problem diagnosed?
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Replying to: xenogogue (Jan 18, 2005 8:24 am)  125,000 miles. After filling up the gas tank and driving 4 miles, the engine idle became unstable. (Had never happened before - came out of the blue) Thinking I let the tank go too empty and maybe some crud started circulating, I shut off the engine, turned back on, still rough idle and check engine light. Drove 1 mile, and smelled sulfur. Drove one city block to a foreign car repair shop, and sulfur smell became very pungent and car smelled hot. Foreign repair shop owner said a tune-up (in Millis, Massachusetts) would cost $370. He said the car (which I bought last year, put on 7K mileage, and was told they had given it a tune-up before I picked it up) needed a tune-up very badly and that it had burned one of the 8 coils because the engine was misfiring. Another $200 for the one coil. He told me if I didn't change it, I would blow the engine. (He had previously told me that running the car with a rough idle would cause extra heat in the exhaust and burn out the exhaust system). I don't know anything about foreign cars (should have stuck with a '67 Ford Falcon), so I can't dispute his claims at this time. This is an automatic 8-cylinder gasoline powered car. Next time, I will call ahead to get tune-up quotes. And because I was stuck with a broken car out in the boondocks, I had to go to the nearest place. Next time, I will find out what the problem is, call around for quotes, pay the gentleman for his diagnostic time, and have the car towed to my mechanic at home, if at all possible. If you have noises, get them checked out earlier rather than later because waiting will definitely cost you more.
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Replying to: natbutler (Oct 21, 2008 2:17 pm) |
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Replying to: johnc28 (Oct 13, 2008 12:45 am) The problem was the transmission-selector-switch itself - it had to be replaced. |
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Replying to: natbutler (Oct 21, 2008 2:17 pm) |
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