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Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

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#9731 of 10775 Elevation by paisan Jan 07, 2007 (8:52 pm)
I'd stick with the forced induction in the Mts. From what I hear they are less effected by the higher altitude than an NA motor.   -mike
#9732 of 10775 Re: Outback turbo vs 3.0 in the mountains [skatemom] by c_hunter Jan 07, 2007 (8:53 pm)
Replying to: skatemom (Jan 07, 2007 8:29 pm) I have an 05 Outback XT (2.5 turbo) and previously had an LL Bean (3.0 H6). They are both awesome in the snow. The turbo is a little faster and sporty, while the LL Bean is smoother and more refined. Both are very powerful. The turbo may be better for mountain driving, as turbo engines are not as prone to the power loss you get at high elevations. At the elevations you're talking about, that is a worthwhile consideration. My advice would be to test drive both and see what you like better. Good luck!   Craig
#9733 of 10775 Re: Outback turbo vs 3.0 in the mountains [skatemom] by garandman Jan 08, 2007 (6:08 am)
Replying to: skatemom (Jan 07, 2007 8:29 pm) What are advantages/disadvantages of turbo vs 3.0 (aside from premium gas!) Is this car as good as it sounds in the snow? I will be new to winter driving.... At your elevation the turbo will be an advantage and with the SI drive the mpg will be OK. Disadvantage is you must run premium, and resale value is a little lower. The H6 is very smooth and refined and is a lot more sprightly with the H6 than your Explorer. It runs happily on mid-grade fuel or good Regular; is smoother; and is easier to sell. But the actual power output is 10-15% less than the turbo despite their similar ratings.   Subarus are very good in snow, with appropriate tires.
#9734 of 10775 Re: Outback turbo vs 3.0 [skatemom] by mike1944 Jan 08, 2007 (8:52 am)
i've been driving the turbo since july and response due to turbo lag, may not suit you. also my mpg, locally has varied from 15mpg to 20mpg, and 25mpg highway.   all in all the car is great , my only complaint is the use of premium fuel,the mpg it gets, and the lack of stability control even as an option. traction and stability control can be had on the suzuki sx4, why subaru doesn't make it available is a mystery. especially when the institute of highway safety only recommends the legacy with stability control. you can only get this safety feature as part of a $2500 navigation package on the gt, it may be a different story on the h6. Replies to this message: c_hunter (Jan 08, 2007 9:09 am)
#9735 of 10775 Re: Outback turbo vs 3.0 [mike1944] by c_hunter Jan 08, 2007 (9:09 am)
Replying to: mike1944 (Jan 08, 2007 8:52 am) The 2007 Outback XT and LL Bean models come standard with VDC traction/stability control. And I believe the prices are the same or less than the 2006 models, so the value is even better.
#9736 of 10775 Re: New Outback Heating system "air filter" [ncc4] by ic_designer Jan 08, 2007 (9:16 am)
Replying to: ncc4 (Jan 07, 2007 1:51 pm) Someone in this forum has posted the link to "How to replace the cabin air filter" a while back, and I happen to bookmark it.   http://www.cars101.com/subaru/airfiltration.html   Alland Replies to this message: ncc4 (Jan 08, 2007 11:20 am)
#9737 of 10775 2007 Outback Parts & Oil Change by dudleyf Jan 08, 2007 (9:23 am)
Greetings,   I recently added a fully-loaded 2007 Outback LL Bean to my garage, my first Subaru. So far I love the car, and over the weekend did the first manufacturer's-recommended oil change (3k miles). It went fairly smoothly for a first one, but I have a few basic questions to all the Subie owners out there.   1.) Does anybody know any good Subaru dealers that sell online that have good prices and service? I've used Courtesy Nissan for my Maxima for years, and they sell online cheaper than any local dealers.   I prefer OEM parts, especially since it's about the only way to get wiper refills anymore (the general parts stores want you to buy a whole new blade every time).   2.) The oil change went fairly smoothly, but I notice the hole in the plastic guarding over the drain plug is of a sufficient size that the oil comes right through on the initial "gush," but as it becomes more of a trickle and surface tension causes the oil to start "sticking" to the bottoms of the pan for an inch or so back before releasing it no longer clears the intended hole and ends up pooling on top of the shielding and dripping out of several holes simultaneously. I let it continue like this and then tried to wipe above as best I can by stuffing my arm up through the filter opening, but wonder it anybody has come across a better solution to keeping the dribble in the pan.   Otherwise it was a straightforward operation, although I was surprised it took 7(!) quarts to fill it back up. That contradicts the manual which states 5.8, but I added a full 7 before the dipstick was just below the FULL mark!   Anybody else see this as well? Replies to this message: xwesx (Jan 08, 2007 11:09 am) zman3 (Jan 08, 2007 11:24 am) jeffmc (Jan 08, 2007 3:47 pm) locke2c (Jan 09, 2007 9:00 am)
#9738 of 10775 XT for Colorado by nickel Jan 08, 2007 (9:31 am)
From Nina Padgett (Chicago Sun Times, April 7, 2003): Turbocharging improves vehicle performance in high-altitude states such as Colorado and Utah, which traditionally have been strong markets for Subaru. In cities such as Denver and Fort Collins, Colo., the power loss from altitude is about 10 percent. The power loss in mountainous areas surrounding these cities can be up to 25 percent. Turbocharging compensates the loss of oxygen at altitude by improving air flow through the engine. Turbochargers also enhance fuel economy and reduce emissions.   The math is clear, go turbo.
#9739 of 10775 2008 Legacy photo by scouzi Jan 08, 2007 (9:51 am)
Seems they have no news for the B9 however.   http://prn.newscom.com/cgi-bin/pub/s?f=PRN/prnpub&p1=20070107/CLSU008-a&xtag=PRN- -prnphotos-58978&redir=preview&tr=1&row=1
#9740 of 10775 Re: 2007 Outback Parts & Oil Change [dudleyf] by xwesx Jan 08, 2007 (11:09 am)
Replying to: dudleyf (Jan 08, 2007 9:23 am) I recommend that you drain some of that oil back out. If it states 5.8 quarts, then when you do an oil change only put 5 quarts back in (with some of that poured directly into the new oil filter before mounting it if it bottom-mounts as on the H4). Run the engine a while to let it redistribute, then let it fully settle before checking the dipstick. You can fine tune it from there. The H4 is highly sensitive to being overfilled and I suspect the H6 might be as well, so overfilling could lead to premature seal/gasket failure.

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