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Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

10833 messages,  Last post on Feb 26, 2013 at 5:40 AM

You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback Forum.

What is this discussion about? Subaru, Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Sedan, Wagon




Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.

Messages Page 1079 of 1084

#10775 of 10833 Re: 08 Legacy seat comfort [xwesx] by ateixeira

Mar 19, 2010 (6:50 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Mar 19, 2010 5:23 pm)
I've said it a few times, but we're all shaped differently.
 
Try some padded seat covers, perhaps?

#10776 of 10833 Subaru Legacy wagon brakes... by lilengineerboy

Mar 22, 2010 (3:42 pm)

So at ~56k the front brake pads are starting to look less than stellar. I am trying to decide what I want to do with replacements. Right now I am thinking EBC Greenstuffs or the Hawk HPS pads, the Akebono ones that seem to be all over, and Satisfied GranSports. I am thinking its an order to JC Whitney or tire rack and get to it next weekend.
Any thoughts?
Also, as long as I'm asking, any thoughts on rotors?

#10777 of 10833 Re: Subaru Legacy wagon brakes... [lilengineerboy] by bpeebles

Mar 22, 2010 (5:29 pm)

Replying to: lilengineerboy (Mar 22, 2010 3:42 pm)
The main brake discussion is over on the forum named "Stop here! Let's talk about brakes"
 
Basically... The recommendation is to go with diecent (not the cheapest) rotors. (Bendix, Raybestos, ...etc). If you want better stuff, go with German-steel such as ATE or Zimmermann rotors. Cheap rotors (Mexico,China) will tend to warp or rust long before the pads wear out.
 
For pads, DO NOT get so-called 'racing' or 'high-performace'... you will be sorry. These pad-compisitions need to hot before they start to work well. If a moose jumps out infront of you on a cold morning, you WILL NOT have time to warm up the brake-pads before you want to stop. (Picture brake-pedal pushed as hard as you can and the car barely slows down for the first 50 feet)
 
Instead, look for a 'mild upgrade' from stock pads. Beware that more braking power usually means more black dust on your wheels. Akebono is a CERAMIC-based pad. These tend to make less black dust than organic pads.
 
Also, if you purposefully take the time to "season" the rotors before you "break in" the pads, you will be rewarded with many miles of excellent braking performance. Seasoning the rotors essentually is laying down a thin layer of pad-material on the surface of the rotor while you de-stress the metal with heat-cycling.

#10778 of 10833 Re: Subaru Legacy wagon brakes... [bpeebles] by lilengineerboy

Mar 22, 2010 (8:26 pm)

Replying to: bpeebles (Mar 22, 2010 5:29 pm)
The main brake discussion is over on the forum named "Stop here! Let's talk about brakes"
 
Cool, I will head over there and check things out.
 
Basically... The recommendation is to go with diecent (not the cheapest) rotors. (Bendix, Raybestos, ...etc). If you want better stuff, go with German-steel such as ATE or Zimmermann rotors.
 
I have had good luck with Brembo blanks, and ATE slotted in the past, I just didn't know if there was anything newer I should be aware of. It sounds like I am still on the right track.
 
For pads, DO NOT get so-called 'racing' or 'high-performace'... you will be sorry. These pad-compisitions need to hot before they start to work well. If a moose jumps out infront of you on a cold morning, you WILL NOT have time to warm up the brake-pads before you want to stop. (Picture brake-pedal pushed as hard as you can and the car barely slows down for the first 50 feet)
 
Oh man, memories of track days at Buttonwillow; we would go on Saturday, put race pads on, do the track day, drive back to the hotel, wake up in the morning, drive back to the track, and then somehow manage to avoid a 30 car pileup (all of us going to the event from the hotel) on the off ramp of I5 because everyone has stone cold race pads...idiots we were. Anyway, I definitely understand heat ranges and that a street car needs brakes that work when cold.
 
Instead, look for a 'mild upgrade' from stock pads. Beware that more braking power usually means more black dust on your wheels. Akebono is a CERAMIC-based pad. These tend to make less black dust than organic pads.
 
If I can get a little more bite than the stock pad and less dust, that is very appealing to me. Something rotor friendly is nice too, but I am less worried about it. My wife and kid are in this car, I want it to stop when told.
 
Also, if you purposefully take the time to "season" the rotors before you "break in" the pads, you will be rewarded with many miles of excellent braking performance. Seasoning the rotors essentially is laying down a thin layer of pad-material on the surface of the rotor while you de-stress the metal with heat-cycling.
 
That is an excellent point. Even the S&P dimpled slotted rotors JC Whitney had on special had instructions for how to bed the rotors and seat the pads.
 
I think one of the things i wanted to say also was thanks for a very thorough, well explained answer that covered a lot of the newbie mistakes. I think on forums like this a willingness to explain all the pitfalls, tips and tricks goes a long way.

#10779 of 10833 '05 Legacy 2.5i sedan, 100k miles, what should I pay? by astaroth

Apr 02, 2010 (10:40 am)

I am looking at buying a deep blue '05 Legacy 2.5i sedan, automatic, has 100k miles on it, private seller who is the 2nd owner and bought it last year at 90k miles. The 1st owner replaced head gasket and timing belt at some point (not seen Carfax yet), and the 2nd owner recently replaced a couple of suspension parts. No accidents, but the car has some visible scratches on the back, and a broken back seat ashtray/compartment thing (pretty minor but could be pricey to replace). The owner mentioned that there could possibly be some minor further suspension work to be done in a few thousand miles due to crappy roads where I live. Tires are brand new all seasons and in great condition. We are taking it to a mechanic for an inspection in a couple of hours. I already test drove and it feels really really nice, very smooth ride, a little tire noise on the interstate but I read that is common for Subarus.
 
He is asking for $7300 which is exactly the TMV price reported on this site, however TMV does not take into account whether the seller is a 1st or 2nd owner. I am wondering whether the fact that the seller is the 2nd owner is legitimate leverage for me to offer substantially less, possibly $6000. If the mechanic does not find any other issues with the car, I will argue that the fact that I would be the 3rd owner means that the resale value for me would be terrible, so I am knocking off $1k for that, and I am going a bit further down because of the scratches and the broken back seat compartment thing, also (and I won't mention this specifically) the fact that he is selling it less than a year after buying it is a potential risk factor I need to take into account.
 
Do you think this would be a reasonable offer? I would be willing to pay up to $6500 perhaps if he doesn't seem willing to go that low, but I don't really want my initial offer to be over $6000 because of the issues I mentioned. 100k miles is also quite high but that is already taken into account in the TMV.

#10780 of 10833 Re: '05 Legacy 2.5i sedan, 100k miles, what should I pay? [astaroth] by ateixeira

Apr 02, 2010 (11:37 am)

Replying to: astaroth (Apr 02, 2010 10:40 am)
I agree with the red flag about him selling less than a year after buying (why?).
 
This is also a red flag:
 
possibly be some minor further suspension work to be done in a few thousand miles due to crappy roads
 
Sounds like he knows something's coming.

#10781 of 10833 Re: '05 Legacy 2.5i sedan, 100k miles, what should I pay? [ateixeira] by astaroth

Apr 02, 2010 (11:46 am)

Replying to: ateixeira (Apr 02, 2010 11:37 am)
Hi, thanks for replying. I asked him straight up about selling so soon and he said that he wants to upgrade and get a much nicer car (he mentioned BMW). I don't know really, maybe he just got a promotion or feels that the Legacy isn't quite the performance car he expected, he seemed like a car enthusiast. Another possibility is that he wants to sell it because the drivetrain warranty expires after 5 years/100k miles. I don't really have a problem with getting a car without warranty, I consider that pretty much a given, but maybe he just prefers to have it. I am not sure whether it is a red flag and I will ask the mechanic's advice on this.
 
The suspension thing doesn't really worry me in the sense that he was honest about it, if it was something dangerous my guess is he would have kept quiet. He is right that the roads here are terrible and really take a toll on the suspension, and at 100k miles it doesn't really surprise me that it might need work (and he has already done the most expensive part of the work apparently). In any case the mechanic will be able to put a price on this and whatever it is, I will subtract it out of the asking price of course.

#10782 of 10833 Re: '05 Legacy 2.5i sedan, 100k miles, what should I pay? [astaroth] by ateixeira

Apr 02, 2010 (12:02 pm)

Replying to: astaroth (Apr 02, 2010 11:46 am)
Cool. You're doing the right thing in getting a mechanic to inspect it so best of luck and keep us posted.

#10783 of 10833 Re: '05 Legacy 2.5i sedan, 100k miles, what should I pay? [ateixeira] by astaroth

Apr 03, 2010 (5:30 am)

Replying to: ateixeira (Apr 02, 2010 12:02 pm)
Well, taking it to the mechanic was the best idea ever. The mechanic identified a whole range of problems, including brake pads that need to be replaced immediately, that the timing belt had not been done and would be due very soon, lots of leaky and worn bits everywhere, generally the car would need about $3-4k of work done in the very near future. Not buying.

#10784 of 10833 Re: '05 Legacy 2.5i sedan, 100k miles, what should I pay? [astaroth] by ateixeira

Apr 05, 2010 (10:08 am)

Replying to: astaroth (Apr 03, 2010 5:30 am)
Money well spent. Very well spent.

Messages Page 1079 of 1084

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