- #760 of 779
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Re: second battery for 2009 yukon xl denali [kscubfan]
by dagasman
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Sep 15, 2009 (10:25 am)
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Replying to: kscubfan (Aug 24, 2009 6:52 am)
Dealer in Morehead City NC said I could not have a second battery installed without voiding the MFR warranty and said they could not do the job since it is not OEM to my vehicle. Any thoughts or insights?
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- #761 of 779
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Re: 07 Yukon Denali Not starting, is this happening to anyone else? [dagasman]
by kchawk1
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Sep 21, 2009 (5:48 pm)
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Replying to: dagasman (Sep 15, 2009 10:21 am)
I posted earlier that replacing the negative battery cable seemed to have cured my dead battery issues in a 2008 Denali. After 2 months of trouble free driving the problem is back again. So the negative cable was /is not the answer. It is back in the shop and I am again trying to talk to the folks at GM customer service for a permanent resolution to the problem. I currently own four GM products, and have purchased three of them new in the last 15 months from the same dealer. I am not sure anyone cares about customer support anymore. I may start riding a Schwinn.
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- #762 of 779
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Re: 07 Yukon Denali Not starting, is this happening to anyone else? [kchawk1]
by dagasman
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Sep 22, 2009 (11:02 am)
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Replying to: kchawk1 (Sep 21, 2009 5:48 pm)
There is a computer program recall,as well as TSB's #1741191 Battery electrical drain, for 2007 Denali's and #2074806 for 1996-2008 GM's using Class 2 Communications. I agree that service is GM's greatest failure.
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- #763 of 779
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Re: 07 Yukon Denali Not starting, is this happening to anyone else? [kchawk1]
by fiaga123
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Sep 22, 2009 (12:17 pm)
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Replying to: kchawk1 (Sep 21, 2009 5:48 pm)
check the following messages...they might help.
Message #733 Re: Battery Dead [kchawk1] by fiaga123 Aug 01, 2009 (6:01 am) You have to insist on 800 CCA if they give you anything lower. Mine had a 700 CCA and I was having ...
Message #695 Re: battery keeps dying [circlew] by fiaga123 Jan 25, 2009 (6:32 pm) I figured it out this week. Firestone replaced my previous (dead) battery with a 700 CCA battery. ...
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- #764 of 779
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SPEEDOMETER STICKING
by marymc73
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Sep 27, 2009 (5:37 pm)
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THE SPEEDOMETER IS READING 60MPH WHEN I AND IN PARK. WHEN I START TO PRESS THE GAS IT GOES OVER MORE AND STICKS FUTHER UNTIL IT'S AT 120+ . I HAVE NO IDEAL HOW FAST I AM GOING. I CAN BUMP THE SWITCH ON AND OFF AND IT RETURNS TO ZERO BUT IT HAPPENS AGAIN.ANYONE OUT THERE KNOWS WHATS UP?
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- #765 of 779
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Re: SPEEDOMETER STICKING [marymc73]
by circlew
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Sep 28, 2009 (5:35 am)
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Replying to: marymc73 (Sep 27, 2009 5:37 pm)
Happened to me after I changed a dead battery. I solved it myself since I noticed every time I shut off the ingnition completely and started it back up, the speedometer would inch back around 5 mph at each on/oof cycle. It wasn't enough to turn the key on/off without starting. I needed to start it each time and then turn it off and repeat.
I think i did it around 30 or 40 times but it did reset and has been normal for about 10 months now.
Regards,
OW
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- #766 of 779
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Re: SPEEDOMETER STICKING [marymc73]
by tim117
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Sep 28, 2009 (12:23 pm)
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Replying to: marymc73 (Sep 27, 2009 5:37 pm)
Most likely your problem is not resolved. As you may or may not know, there is a recall on the instrument cluster for faulty servos. GM will warranty usually up to 70,000 miles, after that, your on your own. Replacement of the cluster through GM will run you in the neighborhood of $650. Their are repair facilities that advertise on EBAY that will repair your cluster for around $200, but you have to send it to them. Thats what I elected to do and have been pleased with no more problems. The cluster is rather easily removed, the bezel snaps onto the dash, remove I believe four screws and the cluster comes out. Be sure to disconnect the battery before unplugging the harness from the back of the cluster. Good luck
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- #767 of 779
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Re: transmission clunking [antifreeeez]
by rsht
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Sep 29, 2009 (4:31 am)
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Replying to: antifreeeez (Jul 25, 2009 12:40 am)
Absolutely! Check the U-joints first, most of the time its just a matter of grease the U-joints; but, if your OEM U-joints do not come with grease fitting, then just drive until one of them goes bad, at that point (a side from the Clunk your hear/feel as you accelerate from stop) you should feel a slight vibration from the rear of your vehicle at speed around ~45mph... Good Luck!
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- #768 of 779
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Re: 1999 Yukon Denali front suspension and front brakes [jjk245]
by rsht
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Sep 29, 2009 (5:33 am)
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Replying to: jjk245 (Sep 10, 2009 4:57 am)
Unless you use Coil-over or Air shocks, those gas charged shocks will not do much at all to raise/restore your vehicle to its original height. Being its in the front, upon replaced the coil spring (or perhaps instead of coil springs, they may be torsion bars), you will need to have the front wheels re-aligned.
As far as minimize the brake squeak/squeal, having shims installed (correctly) between brake pads and caliper will most definitely help. Before you shop for shims for your particular vehicle, you may want to check with your Ceramic pad manufacturer for the proper shims (and adhesive), since not all shims are made of quality steel... URL below as FYI.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-parts/brake-shims.htm/prin- - table
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- #769 of 779
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Re: transmission clunking [rsht]
by antifreeeez
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Sep 29, 2009 (2:47 pm)
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Replying to: rsht (Sep 29, 2009 4:31 am)
I check around for pricing and come up to be around $200 to replace 2 u-joints in the front, having already replace the 2 in the rear, I hope this work. Another question you may know is about my rear shock, can we buy aftermarket brand because dealers are $600 for both. well, thank you for the advice. and I will let you know.
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