1091 messages,
Last post on Mar 27, 2013 at 1:10 PM
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GMC Yukon Forum.
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GMC Yukon Denali, SUV
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#1082 of 1091 Re: 2002 Denali - Loud Clunking Noise [lrisucci]
by jr46nr
Feb 07, 2013 (2:47 pm)
Did you find out what is was. I have the same problem on my 2002. I have replaced the cv shafts and axle on the front?
#1083 of 1091 Re: 2002 Denali - Loud Clunking Noise [jr46nr]
by harleyg
Feb 10, 2013 (8:00 pm)
Never did find what was causing the noise. Replaced both front axles and changed all the fluids in front diff and transfer case but no change. Sold it last fall. Felt like it was in front diff. Good luck finding a reasonable priced solution to your problem.
#1084 of 1091 Major Problems w/ 2008 GMC Yukon Denali
by ganttma
Feb 12, 2013 (9:07 am)
I have experienced (5 times to be exact) problems with my GMC Denali just cutting off. I was driving down the freeway at the check stablitrac light flashed, along with the warning light, and the reduced engine light. The first time it just shut down - with the battery just dead. The last four times the engine power was reduced which only allowed me to drive at a maximum of 20mph. I have had it towed all five times, with 2 different GMC dealers inspecting the vehicle. One technician personally came out and told me in his 12 years of working on GMC vehicles he has never seen the code that's appearing on my vehicle. The other times (all at the same GMC service center) I get the vehicle returned to me with the service man telling me that they can locate the problem. Please - please - please help me. Also the GMC service manager informed me that the code that continues to appear on my vehicle is P1682 and they have been told not to repair or replace anything on the vehicle, just return to customer until the problem reoccurs.
#1085 of 1091 Re: Major Problems w/ 2008 GMC Yukon Denali [ganttma]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Feb 12, 2013 (9:47 am)
lHere's what info I have on 1682:
Circuit/System Description
There are 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the engine control module (ECM). The first ignition circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The second ignition 1 voltage circuit is supplied by the run/crank relay through a fuse, and is used to power the remaining internal ECM circuits. If the ECM detects a voltage difference between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits, DTC P1682 will set.
Conditions for Running the DTC
The ignition is ON.
System voltage is more than 5.23 volts.
The powertrain relay is commanded ON.
DTC P1682 runs continuously.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The ECM detects that the voltage level difference is greater than 3 volts between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits for less than 1 second.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
DTC P1682 is a Type A code.
Conditions for Clearing the DTC
DTC P1682 is a Type A code.
Diagnostic Aids
This test procedure requires that the vehicle battery has passed a load test and is completely charged. Refer to Battery Inspection/Test See: Starting and Charging\Testing and Inspection\Component Tests and General Diagnostics\Battery Inspection/Test
Special Tools
J 35616
Circuit/System Verification
Important: On the scan tool, the powertrain relay is referred to as the EC ignition relay.
If DTCs P0685, P0689, or P0690 are set, diagnose those DTCs first.
Ignition ON, engine OFF, observe both the Ignition 1 Voltage signal and the EC Ignition Relay Feedback signal parameters on the scan tool. Both parameter values should display no more than 3 volts difference between the 2 parameters.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records data.
Circuit/System Testing
Important: You must perform the Circuit/System Verification before proceeding with Circuit/System Testing.
Testing the Ignition 1 Signal Circuit
Important: A resistance of 5 ohms or greater in the circuit will cause the DTC to set.
Ignition ON, verify that B+ is available to both test points of the fuse from the powertrain relay to the ECM.
If B+ is only available on one test point of the fuse, test the ignition 1 voltage circuit from the fuse to the ECM for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
If B+ is not available on either test point of the fuse, replace the underhood fuse block.
Ignition OFF, disconnect the ECM C1 connector.
Ignition ON, verify that B+ is available at C1-19.
If B+ is not available, test the ignition 1 voltage circuit for an open/high resistance condition. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
If all circuits test normal, replace the ECM.
Testing the EC Ignition Relay Feedback Circuit
Important: A resistance of 5 ohms or greater in the circuit will cause the DTC to set.
Ignition OFF, remove the powertrain relay from the underhood fuse block.
Ignition ON, connect a 3A fused jumper wire from B+ to the powertrain ignition 1 voltage circuit terminal. Verify that the EC Ignition Relay Feedback parameter displays B+ on the scan tool.
If the scan tool parameter is less than the specified value, test the ignition 1 voltage circuit for an open/high resistance or short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
Repair Instructions
Perform the Diagnostic Repair Verification See: Verification Tests
Relay Replacement (Attached to Wire Harness) Relay Replacement (Within an Electrical Center)
Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Replacement
Engine Control Module Replacement
Engine Control Module Programming and Setup (GAS)
#1086 of 1091 Re: Major Problems w/ 2008 GMC Yukon Denali [ganttma]
by gmcustsvc
Feb 12, 2013 (10:23 am)
ganttma,
If you would like for us to check into anything further for you regarding this, please don't hesitate to contact us via email at socialmedia
gm.com with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation so far).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
#1087 of 1091 Re: 2002 Denali - Loud Clunking Noise [lrisucci]
by mrc81
Feb 16, 2013 (6:21 pm)
its the clutch in front of truck i had same problem. servix clutch maybe cant remember the name of it
#1088 of 1091 Re: Service Suspension Light [cupike]
by hieatt
Feb 26, 2013 (3:37 pm)
cupike - Did you ever get your situation resolved? We have a 2011 Yukon XL Denali that is within 1000 miles of end of warranty, and the "Service Suspension System" warning comes on randomly - sometimes it's on, sometimes it's off. We've had it to the dealer twice and they have been no help - time to start documenting the problem... my wife just started taking photos of the warning message! Thanks.
#1089 of 1091 Re: Service Suspension Light [hieatt]
by gmcustsvc
Feb 27, 2013 (6:34 am)
hieatt,
If you would like for us to document this situation through customer service, we'd be happy to do so. Please contact us via email at socialmedia
gm.com with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
#1090 of 1091 Re: 01 Denali XL Loud Knocking when Turning [harleyg]
by dareldonahue
Mar 15, 2013 (3:57 pm)
I have the very same issues with an 02' awd yukon i have replaced the left wheel bearing , half shaft , and have a differential coming , has anyone got a clue to the fix ? and by the way i have talked to GM about this issue and there is ofcourse no TSB on this problem ..
#1091 of 1091 Re: Service Air Bag light 2005 Yukon SLT [el_nunya]
by merlin483
Mar 27, 2013 (1:10 pm)
I had ran into a similar issue. Light would blink when starting the truck, then remain on steady. I had it checked and was told it was the front air bag sensor. I did some research then fixed it myself. I found the two main reasons for this alert is either a collision or corrosion. Since I knew I didn't crash, I thought I'd check for corrosion. I found a video on the web from a company that sells after market sensors that shows you what the part looks like and where it is located. I located the sensor, unplugged and cleaned it, then I sprayed some corrosion protection spray ( I used battery terminal protector on it). I plugged it back in and it was good to go. It took longer to find the sensor than to fix the problem. The light shut itself off and I didn't have to shell out the money for a new sensor.