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Chevrolet Cobalt

2171 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 6:04 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Cobalt Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Cobalt, Coupe, Sedan


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#2055 of 2171
Re: Introduction From A Newbie [grosloup] by okko1
Nov 18, 2008 (4:20 am)
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Replying to: grosloup (Nov 17, 2008 10:30 am)

that tire should be fine. the tire size differnce isn't much. a taller narrower tire will move through the snow with less resistance than the wider tire. it also tends to steer better.
#2056 of 2171
Re: Introduction From A Newbie [sseiboi] by grosloup
Nov 18, 2008 (4:40 am)
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Replying to: sseiboi (Nov 17, 2008 7:43 pm)

Thank you "ssesboi" and "okko1" for your replies. Surely helps me figure out things about tire size and performance.
In the older days, we saw rarely 13 inches tires, mostly 14 and 15's but now 16, 18 even 20's Wow! How come? Why?
#2057 of 2171
Re: Introduction From A Newbie [grosloup] by sseiboi
Nov 18, 2008 (8:38 am)
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Replying to: grosloup (Nov 18, 2008 4:40 am)

The reason we are seeing taller rims is because the standard vehicle performances have been increasing. The manufactures are almost building the cars around the tires. A lower profile tire will have a better and more solid contact on a wet and dry road. High speed handling is better with a low profile tire. I dont know the actual reason for 20s but it could be just so that say a SUV could handle like a compact. In my opinion, the tallest rim id have is 18. Comes stock on my ss cobalt and have put 18s on previous vehicles. 20s are too tall and flimsy, ride like crap and feel like they are gonna break if you go over a speed bump to fast....
Going back, a skinnier size does cause less friction in snow but what happens when you get back on pavement???? your gonna sacrifice performance. Just sayin....
#2058 of 2171
31.5 MPG on auto 2009 Sedan by micweb
Nov 18, 2008 (3:16 pm)
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4 tanks of gas, average 31.5 (calculated using receipts showing gallons - odometer reset each fill-up).
 
Variations from tank to tank have been very minor - .2-.3 of a mile per gallon, calulated.
 
DIC has shown a wider variation, up to 1 mpg.
 
This is quite good gas mileage for my mostly freeway, mostly moderate temperature (little need for aircon) commute.
 
The Caliber and Fit delivered better than EPA estimated highway mpg on my mixed driving. Most of my cars have come under the EPA highway estimate, with automatics tending to "give up" more to the EPA estimate than stick shifts.
 
I have been driving this automatic very gently, except when needed - or once in a while for fun.
 
Glad I bought the car. Hope GM gets through the current economic turmoil, they deserve to survive.
#2059 of 2171
Re: 31.5 MPG on auto 2009 Sedan [micweb] by sseiboi
Nov 18, 2008 (5:59 pm)
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Replying to: micweb (Nov 18, 2008 3:16 pm)

I completely agree with you on the fact that Gm deserves to survive the turmoil. The ecotec motor that is standard on so many new GM vehicles is critisized by similar imported i4 engines. And i think the only reason is because it is so great they only pick the flaws which is few to none just that they take notes on the manufacture defective motors.
 
As far as my gas mileage, i get great for how i drive. You can kinda say that my foot is made of lead and with my car being manual tranny, i get to red-line my motor as i please. On my dash, estimated gas consumption, says: average- 20.7 and average speed: 26 mph. I rarely drive freeway but when i do, 80 mph the whole way and 24.0 mpg at best. Not Bad? The technology in the ecotec motor is unbelievable, i wish i got 30 mpg on my superchaged ss! Hahaha! Never happen with my race blood.
#2060 of 2171
Re: Introduction From A Newbie [sseiboi] by calypso3
Nov 23, 2008 (6:12 pm)
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Replying to: sseiboi (Nov 16, 2008 7:21 pm)

It's me again "grosloup" with another tire question. I was checking my air pressure in my winter tires on the weekend and on the tires it's written 44 p.s.i. but on the door panel 35 p.s.i. What p.s.i. do you recommend me the one written on the door panel or the one on the tire?
#2061 of 2171
Re: Introduction From A Newbie [calypso3] by tsjay
Nov 24, 2008 (8:01 am)
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Replying to: calypso3 (Nov 23, 2008 6:12 pm)

The tire pressures you see on the tires themselves are MAXIMUM pressures for that particular type of tire. The same types of tires are used on many different models of cars and trucks, and the proper inflation pressure depends on the type of vehicle. Most often you do not want to run the maximun tire pressure. Vehicle weight is one of the biggest factors in tire pressure.
 
With the factory tires, a Cobalt's recommended cold tire inflation pressure is 30 psi. Cold pressure is when the vehicle has been driven less than five miles.
 
The ambient air temperature will affect tire pressure, so it is necessary to add some air in the winter.
 
Tom
#2062 of 2171
Re: Introduction From A Newbie [tsjay] by sseiboi
Nov 24, 2008 (8:45 pm)
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Replying to: tsjay (Nov 24, 2008 8:01 am)

Thats entirely true. The tire pressure on the side is maximum for seating the beads when mounting. The only time recommended to run that air pressure is when you are running flat. In the snow, you are required to run a higher pressure due to the fact that the tire present friction in snow dramatically if low. higher pressure makes that groves run from top to bottom and side to side entirely on the snow. If that makes any sense....
#2063 of 2171
Tire Pressure by tsjay
Nov 25, 2008 (4:57 am)
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What you are looking for in determining the proper tire pressure is a good "footprint." That means that you want the tread to be in contact with the pavement all the way across the width of the tire.
 
Over inflation makes only the tread in the middle of the tire contact the pavement, and the tire will wear in the middle. Under inflation makes only the tread on the inside and on the outside of the tire make contact with the pavement, and this will also cause uneven tire wear.
 
Some people actually go to the trouble of using chalk to check the footprint of their tires. You can rub some chalk across the width of the tread and then drive a few feet. Check the imprint of the tire where the chalk made contact with the pavement and see if it looks uniform. I don't know of anyone personally who does that, and I am not recommending that you should, but it does give you a clear picture of what you are looking for in determining the proper tire pressure.
 
Once again, the weight of the vehicle is a HUGE factor in determining the proper inflation pressure. With the same tire, a heavier vehicle will require a higher pressure. For example, I have some BFG Mud Terrains on my Jeep Wrangler, and the maximum tire pressure indicated on the tires is 50 psi. I run 28 psi for a good ride and for good handling, but Jeeps don't weigh very much. On a big truck, those tires might need to be run at 40 psi.
 
I would just go with the pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer, especially when running original equipment tires.
 
Tomster
#2064 of 2171
Can you rephrase this? by tcalof
Nov 25, 2008 (6:51 am)
Reply
"In the snow, you are required to run a higher pressure due to the fact that the tire present friction in snow dramatically if low."
 
Sseiboi:
What are you trying to say here? That the higher the tire pressure, the lower the friction and less traction?
Or the higher the tire pressure the higher the friction on the smaller footprint and the better the traction?

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