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Vans & Minivans Chevrolet Uplander Chevy Uplander/Pontiac Montana SV6/Saturn Relay/Buick Terraza
2869 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 11:25 AM
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Just purchased a 2008 Chevy Uplander LS and those 3rd row headrests are bothersome. Does anyone have a way to lower or remove them? There are slots on the back rests but I cannot figure out any way to adjust them.
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Replying to: duraflex (Feb 17, 2009 2:25 pm)
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Replying to: crkeehn (Mar 25, 2009 6:31 am)
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Replying to: duraflex (Mar 25, 2009 7:23 am) Of course since I'm generally driving, I don't get to ride back there anyways. |
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. I've got a newly purchased 2009 Montana Ext SV6 van. Was told same vehicle as the 2009 Uplander Van - except minor different cosmetics. I'm in the midst of buying / installing a Brake Controller - to power the electric brakes on my 6x10 utility trailer. Will soon buy either Primus or Husky brand of brake controller. For this van and its brake peddle switch or BCM output brake wire, what wire do I "tap" into? I get the feeling the +3V / +12V current on the Brake Controller input lead might get get very confused with its +3V wire. Thus, I wonder if there's a different "input" wire (that has either 0V or +12V off/on state) should be used instead. Within historical posts, I remember reading the "white wire" above the brake peddle switch (bundled with lots of other wires) should be used. But that was on an '06 Uplander van. Not too sure if it applies to '07 - '09 models as well. Thanks for your "what wire to tap into?" feedback. .
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Replying to: genmtrfan (Apr 03, 2008 2:18 pm) I am the owner of a small manufacturing firm that makes replacement bushings for your vehicle and a number of others. They cost $165 for a set of two. These are not the same design as the original and should last many years and many miles longer. Check out our web site at www.waltonmfg.com. It is a bit out of date as presently it only deals with our product for Cadillac automobiles, but we recently began to make a similar product for a number of all wheel drive GM vehicles. |
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Replying to: spike99 (Apr 08, 2009 12:35 pm) Here's some feedback from Primus Tech Support Prime (in case you were wondering about a solution to my question). -------- Thank you for contacting Technical Support. In response to your email, the Primus brake control unit will ignore the 3 volts as it operates at roughly 8 volts from stop light activation. The control units red wire will wire to the BCM for this vehicle and the correct wire should be a "white wire" - located on BCM pin 30. If you need further assistance, feel free to write back or contact us at (888) 785-5832. Paul O. Cequent Performance Products, Electrical Division Technical Service Representative (888) 785-5832 |
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I see after years of being away from this forum that everyone is still having loads of problems with these vehicles. Here are a few solutions to some of your problems that totally resolved the issues for me on my 05' SV6: Cupping rear tires even when rotated properly: Replace the stock rear shocks! The stock rear shocks are complete garbage. I noticed how bouncy the rear was with the stock shocks after driving behind it. Even the smallest bump in the road the rear would bounce 3-4 times then settle. On bigger bumps the rear wheels would skip, causing the cupping. I replaced the rear shocks (I have the load levelers too) with Monroe replacement load leveling shocks for $70 for the pair and it fixed the problem and helped the handling immensely. It also made it feel much more stable on straight roads. Warped brake rotors: Replace the stock rotors and pads with GOOD aftermarket rotors and pads (not cheap Ebay rotors and NOT Delco or GM replacements). The TSB about the dust shields is one of the lamest "fixes" I have ever seen. It was definitely poor rotor quality. I replaced mine at 35,000 miles with Centric rotors and Akebono pads and I have NO warpage after 33,000 miles. I did not have the work mentioned in the TSB for the dust shields done. I also had the stock front sway bar links go bad on both sides. I replaced them with the much thicker and heavier Napa units and wow, what a difference. Between the rear shocks and the front links, the van handles 100 times better than the day I drove it off the lot. No more massive oversteer; it handles very well for its size and stance. The fact that the links helped the handling tells me the stock links were too thin and they were flexing under pressure, and the ball joint on the stock links are way too small for the load the vehicle puts on them causing them to fail. Now I have a bad steering rack (3/4" play in the steering wheel). Probably started after the accident when the ABS pump failed, locked up the wheels and it went over an 8" curb destroying the front suspension at 12,000 miles. I also have to replace the front wheel bearings again (dealers replaced them twice already when it had a warranty). I am NOT hard on this vehicle. I may drive spirited, but I do not drive it hard. If anything I drive my IS300 extremely hard and it's still running strong at 107,000 miles with NO mechanical issues. I mean I have 60,000 miles on the front brake pads! Also, for those getting the hot trans fluid warning, I have a fix that might work. I noticed that after 15,000 miles my trans fluid was burnt to a crisp. Then my final drive died at 20,000 which was covered by warranty. They fixed that and filled it with new fluid. At 35,000 I noticed the fluid was cooked again. At 36,000 I replaced the trans fluid with the new Dexron VI fluid (05's came with Dexron III) and added a Tru-cool transmission cooler. Now after 30,000 miles it is just barely getting that burnt smell. I will be flushing it again. I talked to the 4T65E experts and they say there is something wrong with my trans to be generating that much heat. I beg to differ. I think the trans is way under built for this vehicle and the shifts are far to sloppy. This isn't a 3400 lb Grand Prix; this is a 4300 lb behemoth. Anyway, I hope some of these tips help some of you. This thing has been a nightmare since the day I bought it and continues to be to this day. Every month it's something new with it. But I am stuck with it so I am slowly fixing it properly with non-OE parts that work much better than stock. |
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I can confirm about the rotors - we must have had ours in 6 times for rotor problems when it was under warranty. Since putting in good rotors there have been no problems at all (with that). We had problems with the vehicle always going dead - I figured out that the cheap sheet-steel battery terminals were the problem. I replaced them with "premium" ($4) battery terminals (made with bronze and lead, apparently) from AutoZone and all of the battery charging problems have gone away. This might be blamed on the State of California which is afraid of pregnant women chewing on battery terminals, but, hey, other vehicles manage to get it right. We just got hit on inspection for bald-on-the-inside tires (we get 2 years max out of a set of highest-quality silica tires, 1 year out of normal ones). I'll get the shocks replaced, thanks for the tips, Nate! |
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