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Chevy Uplander/Pontiac Montana SV6/Saturn Relay/Buick Terraza

2869 messages,  Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 11:25 AM

You are in the Chevrolet Uplander Forum. Your Host is Karens

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Uplander, Pontiac Montana, Saturn Relay, Buick Terraza, Pontiac Montana SV6, Van


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#2847 of 2869
Saturn Problems by dantana01
Jul 31, 2008 (1:11 pm)
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I've owned mine for 7 months now, bought it used, loved the looks and all the bells and whistles were there for a decent price. Luckily I had a few months left on the factory warranty because I immediately had to fix a few minor problems, fog lamp kept going out, door trim kept falling out. Then the ABS/Stability Control/Traction Control lights kept saying needs service. First they said it was one wheel needed some lubricant on the socket, light went out for about a day, came back on, this time it was a different code, they did a front wheel alignment, then the next day the lights came back on again, this time they had to order a new module, took a week and replaced it, so far so good. Now the fuel tank sending unit is saying the tank is empty when I fill up, it begins working normally again once the tank goes down a couple gallons but the low fuel light and bells keep going off while driving. Also, the door trim is falling out again as well. I think I'm one of the lucky ones when I read some of the other complaints, but still a 3 year old car should not be having these problems and I seriously worry about future reliability, especially since GM has discontinued these. I think I'm going to eat the cost and buy a foreign van.
#2848 of 2869
Re: Saturn Problems [dantana01] by bill_mcgonigle
Jul 31, 2008 (1:24 pm)
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Replying to: dantana01 (Jul 31, 2008 1:11 pm)

FWIW, we wound up deciding the best course of action for us was to buy a 3rd-party extended warranty. We vetted the organization with our regular mechanic and it's going to cost us about $1200 per year, based on our mileage (a bit higher than average). My feeling is that we'll need more than $3600 worth of repairs over that period of time, since these vehicles are such turkeys. Due to the rapid depreciation on these (our 48 month new-car loan is just barely liquid), to trade in for a used Sienna of the same vintage would have cost us almost $14,000 difference, and that was hard to swallow. After the warranty period is up our kids will be old enough to go get a Pilot or something like that.
#2849 of 2869
Re: Saturn Problems [bill_mcgonigle] by dantana01
Aug 03, 2008 (7:57 pm)
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Replying to: bill_mcgonigle (Jul 31, 2008 1:24 pm)

I might end up trading in for a Kia Sedona, luckily they depreciate fairly quick too, but I think with their longer 5 yr 60,000K warranty and somewhat better track record I might end up better off. The Kia with the 3.8 250hp motor is pretty fast too, something the Relay isn't. Although I might have to give up a little MPG. Thing I like about these GM vans is that they have so much standard equipment standard, too bad they just dropped the ball on quality.
#2850 of 2869
Head rest removal / adjustment - 3rd row seats by duraflex
Feb 17, 2009 (2:25 pm)
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Just purchased a 2008 Chevy Uplander LS and those 3rd row headrests are bothersome.
Does anyone have a way to lower or remove them?
 
There are slots on the back rests but I cannot figure out any way to adjust them.
#2851 of 2869
Re: Head rest removal / adjustment - 3rd row seats [duraflex] by crkeehn
Mar 25, 2009 (6:31 am)
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Replying to: duraflex (Feb 17, 2009 2:25 pm)

The rear seat headrests are not adjustable. The slots built into the backrest are to enable the headrest to fold back against the second row seats when the third row backrest is folded down.
#2852 of 2869
Re: Head rest removal / adjustment - 3rd row seats [crkeehn] by duraflex
Mar 25, 2009 (7:23 am)
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Replying to: crkeehn (Mar 25, 2009 6:31 am)

Thanks for that info on the third row seats. They are as hard as rocks.
#2853 of 2869
Re: Head rest removal / adjustment - 3rd row seats [duraflex] by crkeehn
Mar 25, 2009 (9:12 am)
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Replying to: duraflex (Mar 25, 2009 7:23 am)

I never get to sit back there. Most of the time our third row seats are folded down due to all the stuff we are carrying.
 
Of course since I'm generally driving, I don't get to ride back there anyways.
#2854 of 2869
Installing a Brake Controller - which wire to use??? by spike99
Apr 08, 2009 (12:35 pm)
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.
  
I've got a newly purchased 2009 Montana Ext SV6 van. Was told same vehicle as the 2009 Uplander Van - except minor different cosmetics. I'm in the midst of buying / installing a Brake Controller - to power the electric brakes on my 6x10 utility trailer. Will soon buy either Primus or Husky brand of brake controller.
 
For this van and its brake peddle switch or BCM output brake wire, what wire do I "tap" into? I get the feeling the +3V / +12V current on the Brake Controller input lead might get get very confused with its +3V wire. Thus, I wonder if there's a different "input" wire (that has either 0V or +12V off/on state) should be used instead.
 
Within historical posts, I remember reading the "white wire" above the brake peddle switch (bundled with lots of other wires) should be used. But that was on an '06 Uplander van. Not too sure if it applies to '07 - '09 models as well.
 
Thanks for your "what wire to tap into?" feedback.
 
.
#2856 of 2869
Re: Latest Falling Apart [genmtrfan] by dilton_dalton
Apr 08, 2009 (3:21 pm)
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Replying to: genmtrfan (Apr 03, 2008 2:18 pm)

On your vehicle, the rear knuckle bushing holds the top of the rear wheel in place. It is actually a ball joint with a bolt that goes all the way through it. It prevents the wheel from moving forward or backward when you brake and prevents the wheel from falling over when you turn a corner. The problem with the design is that there are two plastic seals that are intended to keep the joint lubrication inside and to keep water, salt and dirt outside. After a while, wear and corrosion will cause the bushing to fail and the wheel will be free to move about. This causes "interesting" steering on the highway and unusual tire wear. In its wisdom, GM has decided that the bushing should not be replaceable. You have to purchase the entire rear knuckle (rear bearing and brake system attach to it) at an inflated price.
I am the owner of a small manufacturing firm that makes replacement bushings for your vehicle and a number of others. They cost $165 for a set of two. These are not the same design as the original and should last many years and many miles longer. Check out our web site at www.waltonmfg.com. It is a bit out of date as presently it only deals with our product for Cadillac automobiles, but we recently began to make a similar product for a number of all wheel drive GM vehicles.

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