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Smart Shopper Extended Warranties
2870 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 4:56 PM
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Edmunds article: Third-Party Extended Warranty Scams
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Replying to: neuris (May 18, 2007 12:55 pm) Thats the norm when you are buying a used car service contract. New car warranties start on the ISD (in service date)
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Replying to: joel0622 (May 18, 2007 1:07 pm) That used to be the case for GM plans...no longer the case. Here are the current answers from the GM site. When does a GM Protection Plan begin? The term and mileage of coverage is calculated from the date of contract purchase and the current odometer mileage on the vehicle. There are two forms of pricing available: New and Used. "New" consists of any vehicle that has been in service up to 12 months AND up to 12,000 miles on the odometer. "Used" is any vehicle that has been in service for more than 12 months OR more than 12,000 miles on the odometer. When does a GM Protection Plan end? Vehicle service contracts purchased on all vehicles end at the time or mileage selected. All vehicle service contracts and Smart Care vehicle maintenance contracts end at the time or mileage selected (whichever comes first) calculated from the date of contract purchase and odometer mileage at time of contract purchase. For example, a 24,000-mile plan, purchased for a vehicle with 40,000 miles, will end when the odometer reaches 64,000 miles (unless the time period expires first). |
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Replying to: sky23213 (May 18, 2007 9:11 am)
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Replying to: deblyn52 (May 22, 2007 8:23 am) But as soon as you talk about getting lawyers involved, all bets are off and they won't discuss anything with you. And unless you have something in writing that would hold up in court, which would be highly unlikely, you're stuck. |
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Replying to: mikefm58 (May 22, 2007 3:29 pm) That would be in case of a claim. In that case I agree, it's all a matter of good will. But I believe we are talking about the Refund Agreement, which was signed by the dealer. Just following general logic here: if Deblyn has a signed piece of paper from the dealer committing to the said Refund, I guess he has a pretty good chance in court. |
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Replying to: sky23213 (May 24, 2007 8:12 am) |
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Replying to: audia8q (Dec 14, 2004 8:05 am) |
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Replying to: deblyn52 (May 25, 2007 9:41 am) |
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Replying to: deblyn52 (May 25, 2007 9:41 am) It may also depend on any "fine print". Hopefully, there's none to negate what you were told. You may want to call or visit the website of your county court and obtain information on Small Claims actions. I've enjoyed about a 90% success rate in Small Claims courts with customers that didn't want to pay their debts. About half of them paid when I completed the paperwork and sent them a copy of the form with a final demand letter. This is also worked on a large company that damage my vehicle, but refused to discuss their liability. In the letter, you must state a reasonable date that you expect full payment. I always made it NOON and included a line that states, that the paperwork would be filed that afternoon and that any court fees and future expenses with this matter would be added to their present balance. Many people state that they have heard of people winning the small claims, but not collecting. I've gotten every penny and one judge awarded me $300 more than I asked for due to the customer being caught in several lies under oath.  I loved that one! Another customer paid his bill in full at the office before I could get back from filing at the court house. I called and told him thank you, but he still owed my the $50 filing fee. He got nasty, so I told him that I'd see him in court to get that fee. He paid. Finally, if you decide to go this route and must go to court. Be very professional. Address the judge. Ignore the other party. Let them do tell their side of the story (lie) without interrupting them. Just listen for their lie(s) where you can prove they're wrong. I've lost one case in 10 years and probably a dozen cases. "They always lie, but you must have written proof to prove it." Be civil and you'll impress the judge. |
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