Last post on Jun 12, 2003 at 12:49 PM
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May 19, 2003 (9:52 am)
just figured if I lowered the temps at the manifold and heads, that 5-10 degrees might add .02 hp - who knows....anything for more power!
#9 of 17 Primary intent
May 19, 2003 (9:58 am)
Is not to mix these products (Water Wetter or the others) with coolant. They are most effective in plain water which is not practical for the every day driver. I have used both and, saw no difference but I did not actually measure the temp. Saw no diff in the temperature gauge.
May 19, 2003 (3:42 pm)
I don't think the objective of these additives is to lower the temperature of normal running cars at normal temperatures. They seem to work best under stress and higher temperatures (to a point).
Actually, I don't know how they work exactly, come to think of it.
May 21, 2003 (7:53 am)
Rline WW works by decreasing the surface tension on steam bubbles that form in hot spots in heads.
The steam acts like an insulator so the coolant cannot absorb the heat from the spot. Bubble burster. Nucleate boiling is the term.
Actually WW may increase the coolant temp ecu sensor reading because it reads coolant outflow from the head [absorb more heat, the coolant temp goes up] but the radiator becomes more efficient due to higher differential temp [hotter input], thus the rad OUTPUT may be slightly lower than without WW........need to read input and output [back to engine to learn exactly how much]
WW Works primarily by lowering the overall head temperatures which results in less detonation.
Aluminum heads conduct heat to coolant faster than iron [why they can run higher static compression ratio].
After all the head temperature [combustion chamber temperature] is what's important not the coolant temperature READING.......assuming you have enough pressure to keep from boiling in rad.
The less % AF you can use [and still have some corrosion protection] the more heat the coolant [water] can absorb from head and transport to rad, thus the higher efficiency the rad can operate at.
Following for HOST:
Depending on head design, composition, ambient and power output don't expect RR WW to always lower the coolant temperature the ecu temp sensor sees.............sometimes you need to trick the sensor/ecu 3,4,5,6,7F [trim the sensor resistance curve to avail yourself of the full benefits].......some [all] ecu go into summer protective mode [progressive advance reduction] when coolant exceeds 195F[Nissan]-200-205F [Ford 210F]reading. ALFA [?].
Jun 06, 2003 (10:57 pm)
thanks that was very interesting!
#13 of 17 running hot
Jun 12, 2003 (8:57 am)
this is a question i'm asking for a neighbor, so i only know the basics about the car he's concerned about.
87 nissan 200sx 6cyl
radiator flushed 2 weeks ago.
we live in a hot climate
the car has been running hot for the past year and a radiator flush didn't cure the problem. his questions are... will removing the thermostat keep his engine running cooler? will removing the thermostat do any damage to his engine?
Jun 12, 2003 (10:49 am)
Nissan thermostats start to open at 170F and are fully open by 194F......to modulate the temperature to the ideal 176-180F.
Without a thermostat the coolant will not warm up enough in cool weather to tell the ecu to get out of warm up enrichment mode [higher fuel consumption].
A 10 year old radiator may just need replacing as chemical cleaning can't correct the external corrosion or dirt......blocking air flow......new thermostat at the same time.
When ever you use a chemical flush you should change the thermostat afterwards as the rubber/neoprene seal can be damaged by the chemicals.
#15 of 17 q45man
Jun 12, 2003 (11:05 am)
good advice and thanks for the info
#16 of 17 Why not just replace the t-stat?
Jun 12, 2003 (11:29 am)
Jun 12, 2003 (12:49 pm)
i think that was done when he had the cooling system flush