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659 messages, Last post on Dec 13, 2008 at 11:05 PM
You are in the Toyota 4Runner Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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toyboxx, I think we're on the same page with bumper guards and replacement bumpers. They're for different purposes, and the WAAG bumper guard (front) will indeed compromise approach angle somewhat. They're fine for low-speed bumps and as a place to tie down a boat or mount some lights (or even as something to stand on) but that's about it. No surprise that the Australians are the ones making really heavy duty bumpers and grille guards! my2cents, thanks for the reassurance about the Homelink retrofit. Mine is supposed to arrive in a few days and I'm looking forward to an easy install. My only gripe with partznet is that they don't give you even an estimated shipping cost until you get the notice your order has been shipped. I even sent an email question and they didn't answer the part about estimated shipping.
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Replying to: oldnavycdr (May 04, 2004 3:08 pm) |
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I would like to install the Smittybilt Outland Sport front center guard http://www.smittybiltinc.com/products/frontguards/outsport.html on my '03 4Runner Limited, but it's not yet available for the newer 4Runners. I consider this Smittybilt item to be a more logical, durable, better looking, and a more functional alternative to Toyota's largely plastic and vastly overpriced front (center) bumper guard. If Smittybilt would just come out with a version to fit the newer 4Runners, I would plan to hang a set of PIAA 1450 fog lamps off of it. But as I said, Smittybilt isn't yet offering this for the new 4Runners, and I can't seem to find a similar low-profile, center bumper guard that's currently available for the new 4Runners. (I looked at the Westin Safari bar, but didn't like it.) Any suggestions other than waiting for Smittybilt to eventually get around to offering what I want? (I don't want a wide front bumper guard/cage. I want something like what's shown in the link above.) Thanks. KH
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Replying to: corancher (May 07, 2004 8:51 am) I don't know what that translates to in production, but there aren't any standards in the US to my knowledge. The UK was supposedly regulating them too. Steve, Host |
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Replying to: kheintz1 (May 07, 2004 3:21 pm) |
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Toyboxx..ur opinion on crash bars..manik or Waag or westin? Thanxs |
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| Thank you for the info. The JAOS center guard looks pretty close to what I'm looking for, except I'd rather have a black finish rather than polished stainless steal. Also, I want to *hang* the PIAA fog lamps from the top horizontal bar, rather than mounting them atop this bar. Any other suggestions would be most appreciated. | |
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I received the replacement overhead console module (map lights, sunroof switch, sunglasses holder) with the Homelink module from partznet today. I installed it and programmed it and it's working fine, but I learned a few useful things that I thought I might share. This is the same Toyota part that's in the units that have Homelink installed at the factory, and the only exterior change from the previous unit is the addition of the homelink logo/light and the 3 buttons. You can buy the part at your local dealer for $98 or at partznet for $76.50 plus about $8 shipping. List price for the option is about $125. Installation is basically a matter of pulling down the old console and disconnecting the wire plug, followed by reversing this process. However I found it took a *lot* of force to pull the old console down. You must only pull down on the front edge of the console, as the rear edge is meant to tilt down on 3 plastic stubs and some heavy duty velcro. Perhaps the folks who find the old ones easy to pull down and remove are folks who have already had the sunroof rattle TSB performed, and that has loosened the metal/plastic clips that hold the front portion of the assembly to the roof of the vehicle. These two clips are approximately centered on the chamber that the sunglasses holder retracts into. You can start by opening the sunglasses holder and pulling down on that to create an opening around the edge of the module that you can hook your fingers into. Once you get the module out you'll need to pull out the electrical plug, and that plug is latched in place. A small screwdriver will help unlatch it, if pushed in from the bottom. Try not to short anything out, as power is live to the module all the time. With the module out you'll see a small motor/gearbox and some shafts. This is apparently part of the motorized wind deflector. Before you install the new module make sure no metal or plastic parts are left in the square holes in the metal roof where the front of the module mounts. Compare the old and new modules to see this. Homelink programming instructions are in the operating manual; just look for "garage door" in the index. Training for my non-rolling-code opener took about 25 seconds instead of the specified 20, but it worked the first time. Unlike my existing remote, the Homelink buttons need to be pressed for at least a half-second or so to activate. This is a nifty system, and I'm happy I made the purchase. The other Homelink buttons can be programmed to operate other doors, gates, and even home automation stuff like the wireless X10 links.
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Replying to: corancher (May 11, 2004 2:16 pm) |
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| I HIGHLY recommend getting some sort of guard for the front bumper. I rolled into someone's rear end in a parking lot (woops!)... was barely going a mile or two and received a 4" crack on the front bumper next to the foglamps. Sure enough, her Cavalier was damage-free. I am looking to get one now, but I can never find pictures of newer model 4runners equipped w/ em, not sure how it would look | |
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