Last post on Sep 24, 2011 at 8:01 PM
You are in the Ford Fusion/Mercury Milan
What is this discussion about?
Mercury Milan, Ford Fusion, Sedan
#5792 of 5819 One year MPG 'for 2010 Milan (Fusion) I-4 Auto
Jul 10, 2011 (11:10 am)
Just completed the one year anniversary and average MPG (mixed) is 31.9. Highway MPG67mph is approximated at 36.0 (with the occasional tailwind assisted 41 mpg thrown in there). The 31.9 is calculated based on gallons pumped and miles on odometer and correlated quite well with the dashboard calculator which is a bit optimistic at 32.4. I have the 6 speed automatic. I do not try to hypermile or try to keep at 55 mph (it's all about rpm's/mile and that is why the highway numbers are so good). In fact it gets worse fuel economy at 55mph than it does at 67mpg. The engineers have selected a good gear ratio for overdrive which puts the sweet spot near 65 (provided it kicks down to overdrive which it always does unless there is a high hill or some other load which requires a downshift). I am very pleased with the performance of the car as well; I rarely need extreme acceleration. I regard fuel efficient driving as rather like riding a bike--there are times to put the energy into it and there are times when you can coast with minimal energy input and hold speed. The hills and the wind are the enemy. I rarely have to use the brakes on the highway since my eyes work well and my neck pivots and I manage to avoid situations which would require braking. I'm sure these numbers (and the numbers of any car except a hybrid) would suffer substantially in stop and go traffic. I have about ten minutes of such on my return commute each day which probably cost me about 2 mpg overall. If the Fusion is essentially the same car as the Milan I highly recommend it as a well engineered vehicle which would be hard to best for the money. By being firm I was able to get the brand new 2010 Milan for $18.3K despite a $25.2K sticker. Part of that was that the Milan was discontinued in 2011, part of it was good negotiating skills at the end of month quota time. Very satisfied with my last 20 years of Mercury (aka Ford) products.
Jul 22, 2011 (7:18 pm)
Took the 2006 V6 SEL on a road trip. Average speed 75MPH. Average MPG per computer was 27.8MPG. I am very satisfied with the MPG. Even had the a/c running at times. Great vehicle.
#5794 of 5819 Nice car, noted problem
Aug 04, 2011 (5:16 pm)
2007 Mercury Milan Premier AWD V6, audiophile system, etc. We have everything except the kitchen sink on this vehicle, except the CD GPS, couldn't figure out that piece of engineering, since at the time I could buy a $100 Garmin. Also didn't understand why the passenger seat has all manual controls, but leather, with a 2 stage seat-heating system. These minor issues aside, this Has been an excellent vehicle for us. But I am writing because of a bigger problem. This car has a Mazda motor/trans. Excellent engineering, except for the fact that this trans has a slip mechanism for FWD (when powered off), that, when parked on an incline on snow or ice will allow the vehicle to move with gravity. I won't get into detail about this, but it caused me to take pix and send this car back To the dealer, at which time the workings of the trans and differential transaxle were explained. It was recommended that we use the parking brake while stationed on an incline. We adhered to this recommendation for about a year, and then we parked the car for a month with the parking brake on, because we were used to this at this point. When we returned and drove the car, the rear rotor was warped, and I decided at this point to just replace all rotors, because they were almost due. However, I learned about this parking brake rotor warpage phenomenon the hard way, and I hopeto spread the message: if your rear rotors are thin, do not leave your cable brake squeezing one section of your rotor like I did. It can be an expensive oversight. Remember that each rotor is actually 2 discs supported with gussets, or ribs, for cooling. If your caliper squeezes these 2 discs where there is no gusset, it will warp your rotor (and in our case it seized the caliper, most shops will insist on replacing the entire caliper assembly, rather than replacing parts or getting it to work like you or I would.
I hope this helps somebody, because I learned the hard way. Otherwise, Ford and Mazda made a pretty good Mercury, that we hope to enjoy for a few more years.
#5795 of 5819 Re: Nice car, noted problem [sabian69]
Aug 04, 2011 (6:01 pm)
Actually it doesn't matter what car it is, parking it for a long period, especially outside has detrimental impact on brakes. I had parked my F350 outside for one month and seized all the calipers, at least I thought it was the calipers, it turned out to happen again, and this time I found it was the pads themselves that caused the problem, they expanded from rust and they were seized in the slides. After driving it a while I noticed the brakes were getting hot then the rotors all warped. Most likely the pads were the main reason, and I highly doubt the parking brake would put enough pressure on a cast iron rotor to warp it. Most likely it was the pads that did the damage, you may have inadvertently applied the parking brake while the rotors were hot, and left it long enough for cementite to build up, which is what really causes rotor "warpage". It takes a LOT to actually warped a disk, and 95% of all cases of warpage are really cementite deposits from hot pads.
I'll trade your rear rotors on the Merc for the rears on my dually!
Some interesting reading if interested. Rotor warpage myth
#5796 of 5819 Re: Nice car, noted problem [acdii]
Aug 05, 2011 (5:32 am)
The issue with rotor warpping is nothing new. All manufacturers with few exceptions put rotors on their vehicles that barely pass muster in terms of safety/durability. I had a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD prior to owning my 2010 Milan Premier and at 42K miles replaced all of the rotors. I learned that resurfacing them was not a solution because they would warp even faster under normal usage, in other words, they had barely enough metal on them to be resurfaced once.
I purchased some high performance rotors that were cross drilled and slotted along with Hawk pads. The price of these parts turned out to be cheaper than OEM parts at the dealer. Stopping performance was significantly better and at 33K miles I had more pad left than the OEM pads had at the same mileage. Also, the rotors did not warp.
When the OEM rotors and pads wear out, I will install similar rotors and pads on this car as I had on the Jeep.
#5797 of 5819 Anyone else having dripping from slightly open driver's window
Aug 14, 2011 (6:32 pm)
First let me clarify that I love my new 2010 I-4 Mercury Milan and am regularly impressed by the excellent engineering foresight the design and production team displayed. So this is not a criticism rather a question about a minor annoyance which is new to me as a car owner.
OK, truly minor. Have I set it up well enough? I love the car and have no substantive criticisms. It may be the best engineered and coordinated car I ever owned.
When I drive in light or moderate rain at either highway or residential speed if I keep the driver's window open 2-3-4inches (as I am wont to do), a significant drippage begins top of the wilndow line into the car onto the armrest and (this is the reason I am curious) onto the switchgear for the door and windows on the armrest. Since there is no abnormality on examination of the door gasket or seal or alignment, I assume that it is related to the roof design (with or without a ridge, etc.) which choice likely is most determined by aerodynamic considerations regarding wind resistance and lift. Nonetheless it appears that this roof design allows water to run off the roof and fall into the car from the top of the window opening.
Have others found this true? There are many simple solutions but first I want to know if "everybody has this" as would be expected if it were intrinsic to the design of the roof and door housing. If nobody has this, I will have to try harder to find a defect in my particular car which is not intrinsic to all 2010 Milans and Fusions. I'm interested.
#5798 of 5819 Re: Anyone else having dripping from slightly open driver's window [pod]
Aug 15, 2011 (3:52 am)
I have not had a vehicle in a good number of years that didn't do what your Milan is doing. Since the manufacturers removed the rain gutters from the roof in the name of style and aerodynamics they all leaked as yours does. I am presently driving a Ford Edge and the rain will run in as you describe. A normal occurrence for this day and age,
#5799 of 5819 Re: Anyone else having dripping from slightly open driver's window [pod]
Aug 15, 2011 (7:05 am)
Doctor, doctor - it hurts when I do this.........
#5800 of 5819 Re: Anyone else having dripping from slightly open driver's window [pod]
Aug 15, 2011 (4:23 pm)
Going way back, I had this problem with my 1992 Crown Vic. Problem solver is to install the window ventshades that stick on the doors and allow you to have the window open a few inches and not get all wet. Drawback is it cuts down on your cars COD, but whats a little drag when you want fresh air.
#5801 of 5819 Re: Anyone else having dripping from slightly open driver's window [acdii]
Aug 16, 2011 (9:44 am)
Thank you acdii, I am considering adding a drivers side shield of that sort. I do like the fresh, unprocessed air. I find Akirby's humor a little dry for such a wet problem but appreciate it none the less. Now only if I could construct an antigravity shield that was flexible and could be attached to the roof near the driver's side...then I could.... Actually I think the windshield wiper toss adds to the problem which is why it is less noticeable when it is only lightly raining. I consider it a tribute to the design engineers that I have to search for such minor issues to serve a kindling to keep this thread alive from time to time. Great car.