Last post on Nov 06, 2013 at 5:32 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel
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Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV
#9717 of 11454 Re: 2007 liberty diesel [gsitek]
Nov 30, 2007 (3:23 pm)
The battery rundown in 3-5 days is not a problem I've seen reported here or on other Jeep forums. I suspect that either your battery is defective or you have a short. Is the battery and engine compartment clean? Grease trails on the battery or near terminals and connections can cause shorts. If that's not it, I have heard that these redtop batteries are often defective despite the price and reputation they have.
#9718 of 11454 Fuel Pressure Issue?
Nov 30, 2007 (5:41 pm)
We bought our 2005 CRD new and have put 45,000 miles on it, thankfully without the problems experienced by some of you. But something new is happening and I'm wondering if it's a symptom that may lead to trouble. We've done a lot of long-distance driving lately and I've noticed that fuel blows out around the filler cap when we're driving. I finally put on a new cap. Fuel still blows out and dribbles down the side of the car. That would seem to be an issue of too much pressure in the fuel system, or two faulty caps in a row. Not sure which. We run ULSD on the road and B100 at home or when we can find it away from home.
Mileage until recently was 22 or so around town and up to 33 on the highway, when driving 70-75 mph (even on B100!). Lately, mileage on the road has dropped to 28. We put new Bridgestone Alenza Dueler tires on about the time mileage dropped, so I think it is partially a matter of needing a little more air in the tires. The tire store put in 32 pounds. More importantly, today I cleaned the boost sensor for the first time; it was a mess.
Still, I wonder about the fuel exiting from around the filler cap when driving. Anyone have an idea of what might be causing this issue?
#9719 of 11454 Re: Glow plug change out [bmartinpe]
Nov 30, 2007 (6:45 pm)
I read that when a diesel engine is cranked while glow plugs are being heated and ignition occurs while the glow plugs are still on, the plugs can overheat and fail early. I also read that there is a starter interlock that prevents the starter from working on the CRD when the glow plugs are on. My CRD will crank immediately while the glow plug light is on and that may have happened a few times causing an early failure. Maybe someone else can verify this?
Anyway, glow plugs are no harder to change than spark plugs once you get to them. The serpentine belt needs to be released and the alternator removed to get at the front plug. The fuel filter assy needs to be removed to get at the rear plug and it looks like the EGR flow control valve needs to be removed from the intake manifold to get at the middle two plugs.
You can unplug the glow plug harness and test all four glow plugs at the plug-in with an ohm meter. A new glow plug measures 1.1 ohm and a bad plug is open. Problem is, it is difficult to tell at the plug-in which glow plug you are testing. A properly shaped 10 mm deep well socket will work while some deep wells will not let the glow plug go deep enough into the socket. The glow plug that I replaced came out clean with no anti seize on the threads and I put the new one in clean (my friend who has a TDI says that is correct). I used a quarter-inch-drive ratchet to tighten the new plug. It did not take much torque to tighten it properly. The plug end that attaches the electrical wire to the end of the glow plug pulls straight off with a good finger grip and good pull. You can find CRD glow plugs on the internet now for $32 + shipping, maybe lower.
#9720 of 11454 Re: Glow plug change out [siberia]
Nov 30, 2007 (7:46 pm)
My CRD would crank and start up when the glowplug light was on, but it would start rougher and kind of stumble initially if I did this. Needless to say I tried hard not to do this. Not sure if there was an interlock or not; it would be quite possible for the computer to shut glowplugs off immediately when the starter is cranked, if that was written into the software.
#9721 of 11454 Re: 2007 liberty diesel [gsitek]
Dec 01, 2007 (4:31 am)
Hi gsitek. On my 06 CRD I had a similar issue though battery would barely turn the starter over then need jumping. No real predictability other than it was starting to get colder outside. Happened once then 3 weeks later even after daily drive. Service manager said they had to update the BCM with a reflash. Hope this helps.
#9722 of 11454 Re: 2007 liberty diesel [buckeyedisldog]
Dec 01, 2007 (11:37 am)
Buckeyedisldog, I think the battery cannot survive overnight delivering 5 Amps continuously when its cold. I would see the fuel heater as a possible 'hidden' candidate. Bulbs are visible, solenoids draw little current and glow plugs would drain the battery in 3 hours when it's cold meaning that the battery would need jumping during the day.
#9723 of 11454 Re: 2007 liberty diesel [caribou1]
Dec 01, 2007 (12:30 pm)
Thanks for the insight.
I will need to use it as this AM I again had the slow turnover and then click click click of what seems like a battery death. Also all lights in the instrument cluster come on after starter stops turning over & starts clicking.
This time I didn't need to jump-start it. Instead, I removed the key from ignition reinserted it, then turned the ignition counter then clockwise and it started right up though with much white smoke from previous start attempt I guess. Last week the Tec checked the entire charging system & battery and gave me the print out stating a clean bill of health.
#9724 of 11454 Re: 2007 liberty diesel [caribou1]
Dec 01, 2007 (12:33 pm)
I wonder how many amps the European counterpart CRD batteries have?
#9725 of 11454 Re: 2007 liberty diesel [buckeyedisldog]
Dec 01, 2007 (2:07 pm)
I have the expensive red top battery where the 6 elements are rolled, forgot the make
If you're really stuck, disconnect the battery negative lug overnight. You will loose the radio memory but at least you will start. If you disconnect the battery and still loose charge then you may have metallic residue in the bottom of an element. In this case the bottom of the battery feels warmer than the rest.
You always have to isolate possible causes to protect your wallet
I once had a broken contact inside a Toyota battery element: sometimes it would take charge, sometimes not
I'm going into my 5th winter with the original battery and glowplugs. I tend to wait a few seconds after the glow plug indicator lamp turns off, then I start the engine. I read that these glow plugs had two heating cycles: they glow rapidly to temperature and then stay at temperature using less current until the engine reaches a "smooth running condition". You can't burn them anymore.
#9726 of 11454 Re: 2007 liberty diesel [caribou1]
Dec 01, 2007 (6:56 pm)
i have sold the six pack red top battery for over ten years most last at least eight years the do not corode or shorten out like regular batterys if you unhook it and the does not go down over night it is probably ok you can also run it upside down with no problem