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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10295 messages, Last post on Nov 27, 2008 at 9:57 AM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: farout (Mar 15, 2006 2:23 pm) I have been following you fuel mileage discussion and I think you might get a pleasant surprise if you go on a trip in warm weather on straight #2 diesel. If I drive from Osage Beach to Laurie when there is almost no traffic and not too many red lights I get around 25 mpg. When I do the same drive and there is a lot of traffic I am lucky to get 22 mpg. When I drive from Laurie to Sedalia early in the morning or late at night, when I can go with the flow of the hills, 26 to 27 mpg is easy. On the interstate at 65 mph, 29 to 32 mpg is usual on cruise for 100 mile stretches. Catch a tail wind and 32 mpg at 70 mph is realistic. The point is I think we are getting the same mileage under the same conditions. |
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Replying to: siberia (Mar 15, 2006 5:23 pm) I am not always right, so do not be in pain. I learn from everyone else in this forum just as you do. I tend to over maintain my cars/trucks by habit. I have found that this bit of over maintenace pays for itself down the road in fewer repairs and in fewer breakdowns. One of the other reasons I run in full time 4WD is to remind myself of how differently the CRD handles and reacts as well as responds to inputs from the right foot. Your description of how the transfer case is designed and works is welcome. How many miles were on this transfer case that was rebuilt? Why did it require rebuilding?
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Replying to: towwme (Mar 15, 2006 3:35 pm) Towwme, does your handle mean you have your CRD set up to be towed? If so what equipment did you get? What would you get if doing it again? Did an RV center handle adding the tow bar or did you do it? Do you use an auxiliary brak system (a gadget that pushes the Jeep's brake peddle when the RV wants to stop.)
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Replying to: winter2 (Mar 16, 2006 6:38 am) Oddly enough, a well oiled carrier bearing on the front drive shaft output (GC V8) was getting a little loose and making a little noise – radio off, windows down, quiet road. It might have went a long time before it actually failed. I bought a kit that contained all of the big bearings and all of the seals for $108 and just replaced all of those parts. I ran it pretty hard in deep gravel in low range once pulling a Suburban out of a ditch. Maybe that did it, maybe not. Anyway, it’s a pretty cheap rebuild if you do it your self and don’t need any of the major parts. Who knows what the previous owner did with it. There was some fine sand in some odd places, like above the rear gas tank shield.
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Replying to: siberia (Mar 16, 2006 10:25 am) Parts were cheap enough. Did you get them aftermarket or at the dealer? I did not realize the GC was used when you bought it. I refuse to buy a used car because most people tend to abuse what they own and get rid of them just before they start having to put money into them.
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Replying to: whitgallman (Mar 16, 2006 9:34 am) On the "hats" spray them on the inside with white grease and the cover will come off easily and stay on the cover. 
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Replying to: winter2 (Mar 16, 2006 11:27 am) Winter2, the parts were aftermarket but looked exactly like OEM. Jeep wanted more than half as much for one bearing and one seal as the entire kit cost. I found the kit while searching for individual parts. I think the parts came out of Nevada but my search turned up other locations with prices that ranged from 130-$164. Maybe prices have gone up a little. I have heard of these transfer cases going over 200k miles with no problems. |
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Replying to: siberia (Mar 15, 2006 5:23 pm)
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Replying to: skiduck (Mar 16, 2006 6:24 pm) My understanding is that there are basically at least 2 types of hub “conversions”. One is the simple conversion where you remove some parts from the auto-locking hubs and install the manual locking device. The advantage of manual locking hubs is that once you locked them in you could go into and out of 4-wheel drive at moderate speed as long as the front wheels were straight and the rear wheels were not slipping. So, you would lock in the front hubs at the beginning of winter and not unlock them until spring, maybe. With the old style auto-locking hubs that did not have syncros in the transfer case, you had to stop to switch to 4 wheel drive. On some or most front hubs they would stay in 4-wheel position when you disengaged the lever unless you backed up. Then, if you were moving again and needed to re-engage the 4-wheel drive you had to stop again. Also, they tended to wear out and fail to engage at all. The other type of conversion that Warn provides for newer Jeeps, and a lot of different makes, is much more complicated and I don’t think that is what you are talking about. Since ’92, GCs have no such hub. A splined axle simply slips through the bearing assembly that is bolted to the spindle and a large nut locks the front hub and axle together at the bearing. When ever the wheel turns the axel turns whether in or out of 4-wheel drive. The Warn conversion provides front wheel bearings that must be greased and adjusted. The hubs attach to the bearings, the area that was splined on the old axel is smooth on the new axel and it is splined on the very end where it attaches to the Warn manual locking hub assembly. Now for the Liberty, I didn’t really look that close when I rotated tires by I think it is the same as the GC except the axles are exposed. I’m sure the ends of the axles are bolted solid to the front hubs but I don’t know what the large diameter housing looking things are on the front axles. I think they allow for front suspension articulation. I searched a little and didn’t see a conversion kit for the Liberty. Maybe one exists, I don’t know. Installation of this kit would be a RPITA.
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Replying to: siberia (Mar 16, 2006 8:14 pm) I should have said, "Since at least '92......." as that is the oldest year GC that I have any experience with. |
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