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Jeep Liberty Diesel

10709 messages,  Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 7:59 PM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV


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#1838 of 10709
Re: missing new jeep [rnabors] by hermit
Sep 07, 2005 (5:31 pm)
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Replying to: rnabors (Sep 07, 2005 5:20 am)

mabors and bullhead thanks for the info!
I made the mistake of buying an 05 Laredo without test driving it up here in the mountains. Did great in city, but put it on a mtn road and you are going 70 mph downhill before you blink an eye. I find myself braking, not driving for 30 miles a day, or driving in 3rd. The 15 miles per gallon is silly stupid right now.
Made sure to test Liberty on a dirt motorcross area for a good 30 minutes as well as up and down mtn passes for 40 miles. Much better response than Laredo all the way around. Learned the hard way I guess... Picking Liberty up tomorrow. Whoo hooo, it's an early Christmas.
#1839 of 10709
Re: Skidplates for Liberty CRDs? [jkievit240] by towwme
Sep 07, 2005 (6:01 pm)
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Replying to: jkievit240 (Sep 05, 2005 6:24 pm)

Skid Plates, get your pen and paper, (ok just print this). The Liberty comes with the engine/suspension skid plate. This plate stops at the suspension cross member. The skid plate that goes from the front suspension to the transfer case skid is part number 82210003 $??? it is just being released by Jeep today, the system does not have a cost (listed under REF. 56). This one should cover the oil filter and the transmission oil pan based on the description. The transfer case skid plate is 82209455 $49.00, the fuel tank is part number 82206122 $115.00. The transmission skid plate fills in the area between the front plate (required for installation) and the transfer case skid plate.
 
Does anybody know if the "Trail Rating" done with the standard non-skid plate model when tested on the Rubicon Trail? or with the $150 option.
#1840 of 10709
Fuel and skid plates by willysjeep
Sep 07, 2005 (6:36 pm)
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We have an '05 CRD with the 'C' Package built in March. 5.5k miles. Put Shell brand diesel in it exclusively, with no extra additives, and have yet to understand all this talk about additives. However, I believe these vehicles may be extra sensitive to diesel quality, so the additives could be well be justified. All I can say is if you have easy access to Shell fuels, worry not.
 
When I bought my Jeep in February, the salesman told me not to use addititives. In fact he absolutely scowled when I asked him about them. He told me that it is best to get fuel from a place that sells a lot of it such as a truck stop. He said that he has seen some situations where the fuel can go bad because it sits in the underground tank without being sold. I've pretty well followed his advise, have added no additives and have noted no strange performance.
 
The skid plate that goes from the front suspension to the transfer case skid is part number 82210003 $??? it is just being released by Jeep today, the system does not have a cost (listed under REF. 56). This one should cover the oil filter and the transmission oil pan based on the description.
 
From the description, it sounds like this plate will need to be removed every time one goes to change the oil. Although I'd like the extra protection, it sure sounds like a nuisance. I also wonder how heavy it would be. I can see myself beneath the truck removing it to change oil and having it bonk me in the head as it is being removed. Is this typical with skid plates?
#1841 of 10709
Towing by anthonyk
Sep 07, 2005 (7:34 pm)
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Well had the EGR valve replaced and the TSB18-018-05 done and she runs like a dream. Towed a camper 4000lbs up and down the Alaska mountain range with no problems. Except once I had the temp scream up to high and just as quick came down after a hit about 4% slope. Next week the dealer might due the TSB that will correct this. Thanks guys for all the info!
#1842 of 10709
Re: Old subjects [smilie1] by caribou1
Sep 07, 2005 (11:44 pm)
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Replying to: smilie1 (Sep 07, 2005 2:22 pm)

In compressed air lines water is the ennemy and you often add a few drops of oil for lubrification. The Provent is a kind of moisture trap adapted to oil fumes. The non woven fabric that's around it (port of turbo side) would clog rapidly with water and lead to closure of the system. This is why I would not use a standard sintered bronze water separator.
I've just received my Provent and I will probably install it between the air filter and transmission controller. The air conditionning filter (can) mounted on the firewall has two long threads that can allow for fixation of a second bracket without any modification. I'm just curious to know how much oil can be trapped because my engine does not need refill between every 12,000 miles service. As I wrote in a post some time ago, I open the hood to refill the windshield washer liquid, and nothing else.
Now if oil vapours go into the admission system, this engine will just burn them.
 
Previous (Renault) turbodiesels mounted on the european Cherokee suffered from severe oil leaks that led to destruction of the engines. A friend of mine was towing his boat through a tunnel when his turbo began to leak oil and he waited till he came out of the tunnel to try to stop his engine. In 4th gear applying the brakes the thing didn't want to stop. He put it in neutral was lucky enough to pull aside and let the engine destroy itself. I think this is one of the historical reasons why you have the choke flap on the newer models. The choke flap can block the oil mist out!
 
You will never have a steady oil flow come out from the top of the crankcase but if the Provent accumulates oil because it is not well flushed or not installed vertically then the engine may surge for a few seconds. I will install a check valve on the oil return connection to let the eventual oil flow in a can.
#1843 of 10709
Additives by moparbad
Sep 08, 2005 (9:57 am)
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Protection for the injectors is even more important now than it was in the past. Using additive in diesel fuel adds lubricity and protects against moisture. Also helps with gelling in cold weather. Also increases cetane.
 
I use Power Service Diesel Kleen (silver bottle) in the summer and the white bottle in the winter.
 
The reduction in risk of fuel problems is well worth the minimal cost of an additive IMO. Especially with the high pressure fuel systems in the common rail and unit injector diesels.
#1844 of 10709
Interesting factoid by vtdog
Sep 08, 2005 (12:50 pm)
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I recently took a rock in the windshield and had to have it replaced. The tech who serviced the jeep worked for a glass place, not jeep dealer. He showed me the top of the windshield on the original glass. There is no rubber gasket installed by jeep on the top. It does not leak because of the sealant used. He said the lack of gasket was a problem for 2 reasons: the lack of gasket lets sunlight (uv) get to the sealant and will eventually degrade and leak; the lack of gasket lets moisture collect in the channel which could be a rusting problem later on. He estimated that it would cost DC 2-3 cents per vehicle to make the install when the car is manufactured. His company always puts in a gasket when they make a repair. In addition to fixing the 2 problems, it does happen to look more "finished" with the gasket installed.
 
I have been happy with the car, but maybe this is a general example of what others have been saying about the "cheapining" of the brand by DC, I don't know.
#1845 of 10709
Re: Additives [moparbad] by bullhead
Sep 08, 2005 (1:54 pm)
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Replying to: moparbad (Sep 08, 2005 9:57 am)

Your reason for the lubricity additive is hard to counter. What is the minimal cost per tankfull if I were to supplement my fuel buying a bottled lubricity additive by the case ? I will assume the cetane and moisture can be otherwise addressed, if they become an issue.
#1846 of 10709
Re: Additives [bullhead] by dfw2
Sep 08, 2005 (5:07 pm)
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Replying to: bullhead (Sep 08, 2005 1:54 pm)

Consistent with the suggested value of additives, I continue to mix biodiesel with the thought that it achieves the same benefits. Reading the materials about biodiesel its supporters say it acts as a lubricant and as a solvent. As a solvent, doesn't it act to clean fuel components and injectors? Additionally, it reduces noise and smoke.
 
With regard to its potential value as a lubricant and solvent, can anyone chime in regarding these benefits? And the relative benefits of bio compared to other types of additives?
#1847 of 10709
Turbo whine by biggs
Sep 08, 2005 (5:57 pm)
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I'm new to the forum, so if this question has been asked before, I apologize. We just purchased a 2006 Liberty and have noticed that when the vehicle is idling to allow the turbo to cool down, there is a noticable whine. After it cools down the whining stops. Is this normal? Several years ago I owned a Dodge Cummins and I don't remember the turbo whining at cool down.

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