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Jeep Liberty Diesel

11441 messages,  Last post on Mar 24, 2013 at 6:40 AM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum.

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV

Messages Page 1135 of 1145

#11332 of 11441 UPDATE on surging CRD by jim66wright

Aug 22, 2012 (10:56 am)

Just got the Liberty back, and the CRD cleared codes were: P0299, underboost, P0101 MAF sensor, and P0093 fuel system large leak (which i was the cause of when I changed the fuel filter and did not remove the older small gasket in the center and tried to screw the new filter on with two small center gaskets. BTW there is a conical one that I left on, I hope this was correct????? )
Now that these are cleared the only ones are P0673 and P0672, #2 and #3 glow plug circuit issues. Now I was looking at the quote, 3 hours to change the four plugs to the new steel ones, and the module; one hour to reflash the ECM, $257 for the replacement kit (vs $159 on EBay); $38 for a OEM air filter and .2 hours to change it ($25 at $125/hr).
I still cannot believe that the glow plugs will make the difference, but the adviser, says it is a complicated engine, and they have corrected this problem before. OK, really?
thanks for all your comments, the list is growning, as this will be my daughters first car, and I want it to be as perfectly reliable for her, as it has been for me till now.

#11333 of 11441 Re: UPDATE on surging CRD [jim66wright] by elder2

Aug 25, 2012 (9:12 pm)

Replying to: jim66wright (Aug 22, 2012 10:56 am)
Thanks for the latest news. I believed that the ceramic glow plugs were the best? We haven't heard of many failures of them on this site. I have noticed that on warm restarts or on warm days that the glow plug lite doesn't come on at all. Why did they have to reflash the ECM and then charge you for it? I would guess they didn't have a clue as to why the CRD stopped running and where just covering all the possabilities to be sure they fixed it. The Maf and low boost codes could have been caused by air in the fuel system, which would be my guess, causing low power and eventually stalling. I will keep doing all my own work for as long as I can. I and my wife love our CRD and are the original owners and I hope the last. I plan on 300K + miles. Good luck to us all.

#11334 of 11441 Re: UPDATE on surging CRD [jim66wright] by unclebob9

Aug 25, 2012 (11:36 pm)

Replying to: jim66wright (Aug 22, 2012 10:56 am)
if it starts and idles, I cannot see it being the glow plugs.

#11335 of 11441 Re: UPDATE on surging CRD [elder2] by jim66wright

Aug 27, 2012 (11:23 am)

Replying to: elder2 (Aug 25, 2012 9:12 pm)
thanks elder2.
I have only had her for about 6 months, but my daughter has to steal it from me. I am leaving the ceramics, in for now, changing the filter housing this weekend to the newest version, changing all the clamps and installing a oil catch can to keep the EGR and intake clean. After that the next on the list is a lift pump for the fuel...then we will see.
thanks again for all the help.

#11336 of 11441 Blown Intercooler hose and TDC Power Box? by jim66wright

Sep 04, 2012 (6:07 am)

All the lurching was the intercooler hose. It was a small slit on the back of the hose that I missed, until I was willing to reach around and actually feel for it...I took it off, and repaired it with silicone adhesive, after cleaning it very well with dawn and hot water to get all the mobil one out of it...then let it cure and wrapped it in gorilla tape. This is temp until the new one comes in from Steve White in NC. They have been great, lowest prices and very quick shipping. He assured me that it was an improvement, and disabling the EGR would help a ton with the blow by into the intercooler. Thanks all.
Now that I have the new fuel filter housing and filter, which should be next? Lift pump or TDC power box programmer. Seems to do the same as the Green Engineering but for $150! Too good to be true?

#11337 of 11441 Time for a Timing Belt/ Water pump (100,000 Miles).. by jm8032

Sep 04, 2012 (7:29 am)

Time for a Timing Belt/ Water pump (100,000 Miles)... We have Jeep dealers in the area but are not experienced with the CDR. Anyone know of a mechanic in or near North Georgia with knowledge of the little Diesel? I’m just not comfortable doing it myself although there are a bunch of articles online!
Have had no BIG problems with the truck to this point. Did disconnect the EGR and CCV at 30,000 miles. Replaced a CAC hose at 50,000 (split) and front half-shaft(boot torn). Always used Amsoil 15W/45 ( never under 40 degrees where I travel & mostly above 80 Deg) Diesel Oil, 6,000 mile change and add Diesel Kleen most tanks of fuel.
I really love the liberty and have committed to the expense of the next 100,000 miles. This site has given me a lot of information about the truck and has helped it to be trouble-free. I am not sure I would have purchased the vehicle had I read this forum first!

#11338 of 11441 Re: Blown Intercooler hose and TDC Power Box? [jim66wright] by emp2

Sep 06, 2012 (2:51 pm)

Replying to: jim66wright (Sep 04, 2012 6:07 am)
Does the TDC programmer change the shift points ? Green Engineering does which will help the increase miles per gallon a lot .

#11339 of 11441 Re: Lurching and losing power [unclebob9] by tntsec

Sep 24, 2012 (7:39 pm)

Replying to: unclebob9 (Aug 20, 2012 8:31 am)
CAN YOU TELL ME EXACTLY WHICH INTANK PUMP IS THE CLOSEST FIT FOR MY 06 CRD LIBERTY? AND IS THE LENGTH CORRECT AS FAR AS THE STRAINER AND ALL TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK? AND DOES THE FUEL GAUGE WORK PROPELY? THANKS FOR ANY INFO

#11340 of 11441 Re: Lurching and losing power [tntsec] by unclebob9

Sep 25, 2012 (8:21 am)

Replying to: tntsec (Sep 24, 2012 7:39 pm)
Robert Petersen unclebob9gmail.com
8:19 AM (0 minutes ago)
 
to noreply
 
I used one from a 2003 Ram Diesel and it fit fine.
I think I switched the float arm from the one I removed from the liberty with the one than came with the Ram.
The wires for the pump were factory installed in the Liberty, however to access them they are conceiled under the carpet, drivers side passanger floor.
  since the jeep's electrical connector to the unit only has 2 wires, even though it is the correct 4 prong plug, I removed the 2 brass connectors from the Liberty unit I removed and fitted them into the jeeps existing plug so that I had a 4 wire plug.
  If you buy the fuel pump'sender from a junk yard, request the plug and at least 6" of the wire that connects to it. This will make it alot easier.
You can buy this connector after market, but they want a rediculous amount for it, like $60 or something.
Make sure your tank is low on fuel to make it easier to lift in and out.
  
These pics will help you: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=179531&highlight=jeep+li- berty+fuel+module
  
It you go to the LostJeeps forum, there are step by step instructions.
 
I think I paid less than $50 for the Dodge unit on EBAY. it is a direct physical fit. It is spring loaded do self adjusting for the height.
  
HOpe this is of help: Bob

#11341 of 11441 Re: Time for a Timing Belt/ Water pump (100,000 Miles).. [jm8032] by dsieta

Sep 28, 2012 (11:41 am)

Replying to: jm8032 (Sep 04, 2012 7:29 am)
Just traded my 2005 because I couldn't find anyone who knew about it. Only 55K but the timing belt is now 7+ years old. Also kind of disappointed in all the little (not little $$) needed things to make it worthwhile to keep i.e. SEGR Provent, Green diesel chip, extra lift in-tank pump, etc. Could be a great vehicle if you want to be that involved. Hope it finds a good home. Never really had any problems with it. Unhooked the egr/maf at about 20k.

Messages Page 1135 of 1145

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