Last post on Mar 24, 2013 at 6:40 AM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel
What is this discussion about?
Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV
#11300 of 11441 black smoke ( unburned fuel) out the back end
Mar 30, 2012 (6:15 am)
I am new to the forum.
I have a 2006 white jeep liberty diesel.
How do you stop the black smoke from happening?
I have people drop back from me, like I am going to blow up.
I heard that you can bypass the EGR valve?
#11301 of 11441 Re: black smoke ( unburned fuel) out the back end [bassetslave]
Apr 04, 2012 (7:30 pm)
Every once in a while it helps to floor it through the gears a few times to clean out the soot in the catalytic.
The easiest way to kill the EGR is go to http://www.greendieselengineering.com
they can reprogram the engine and transmission computers.
I gained about 15% on mileage after having it done.
#11302 of 11441 Re: black smoke ( unburned fuel) out the back end [mdamick]
Apr 04, 2012 (9:14 pm)
Thanks for the information for the jeep.
Which program did you use?
Have you had any problems with it?
I drive back and forth to north Van everyday so I would like to see the mileage increase.
I have changed a lot of things on this jeep,had to put in another motor,(never buy a ex lease).
#11303 of 11441 Re: Jumped Timing Belt [farout]
Apr 08, 2012 (6:47 am)
It is an interface engine, but the rockers are all designed to fail instead of causing engine damage. The valves, pistons, and rods should all be fine, but he should have to replace all the rockers, which aren't particularly cheap.
Apr 09, 2012 (6:59 am)
when should the timing belt be changed?
#11305 of 11441 Re: timing belt [mtngoat1]
Apr 09, 2012 (4:15 pm)
From what I have been reading between 100k and 120k. Although I think they recommend it at around 80k miles. there are alot of other parts that you replace at the same time, water pump, thermostat, etc... that add up, but since they are exposed while doing the timing belt and major jobs on their own, this is the time to do them.
From my experiance the water pump will usually go out before the timing belt. If the belt breaks, you may destroy the engine, so it is a calculated risk. So, 100k is a good rule of thumb and gives you a good bench mark for future belt changes.
#11306 of 11441 Oil Capacity and other issues
May 03, 2012 (9:50 am)
I have been away for some time and I will post a few more times before I leave this blog altogether.
Something funny dawned on me the other day. The Liberty diesel has an oil capacity of 6.4 quarts for 2.8L of displacement. The diesels that were placed in the Grand Cherokee take 10 quarts of oil and displace 3.0L. Way back in the early 1980's, I owned an Isuzu I-Mark with a 1.8L diesel that took almost eight quarts of oil while a new VW TDI (2.0L) takes 4.6 quarts. Now am I crazy or is there something wrong with this picture? Where am I going with this? Well, the better made diesels like Daimler, BMW and Isuzu have significantly larger crankcase capacity than the VM Motori monstrosity found in the Liberty. What does this tell you? Well, as we all know the environment in a diesel is pretty ugly so more oil allows for greater dilution of contaminants thus longer engine life. Obviously, VM Motori builds crap.
AS to those of you with a jumped/broken timing belt, the followers that open the valves are cracked so they are designed to break easily if the piston hits the valves.
My letter to Chrysler is nearly completed and will be going out soon. It is my intention to post it here once it has been mailed.
#11307 of 11441 Re: Oil Capacity and other issues [winter2]
May 03, 2012 (3:32 pm)
Thank you for this post. I've been wondering about you. I've even checked the Mercury threads. Good to hear from you and hope everything else in life is treating you well.
I don't even read Lost let alone post there anymore. And while I read the other jk forums, I only have a login here. And just like this crd forum, the jk forums have a few worth reading posters and the rest is fluff or old items discovered by new owners coming late to the party.
Don't know about you but at times I am ready to buy an old frame and build a real vehicle with real aftermarket parts.
#11308 of 11441 Re: Oil Capacity and other issues [winter2]
May 04, 2012 (3:17 pm)
Were you given the real cause of your problem?
I remember the dealer telling me that the VM engine and transmission were not designed for driving long distances at 1,800 rpm with a locked converter. This condition is of course not applicable to the 'de-rated' version I have but on the other hand mine is running perfectly after 9 years and a preventive timing belt change at 60,000 miles.
Concerning oil, I continue to use a mid-priced semi-synthetic diesel oil and I replace it every 15,000 miles. I never used the CRD for short distances so I was never concerned with water absorbsion and never needed to add oil between service intervals.