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Jeep Liberty Diesel

11441 messages,  Last post on Mar 24, 2013 at 6:40 AM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum.

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV

Messages Page 1099 of 1145

#10972 of 11441 Factory Service Manuals by crash227

Aug 19, 2010 (10:43 am)

Replying to: james191 (Aug 19, 2010 7:06 am)
I own and maintain four personal vehicles, one of which is a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD with 105k miles. I do all of my own maintenance on my Jeep and hope to be able to keep it going for several hundred thousand miles. The CRD requires significant knowledge & effort to keep running properly but I am generally very happy with my CRD despite the many problems & 'buy-backs" that have been reported in this forum. Most of the really good information about my CRD has come from participating in this forum. You have come to the right place in my opinion.
 
The $20.00 Chiltons and Haynes service manuals (I have many) are good for basic information, but what you really need is the Factory Service Manual created by the manufacturer.
 
I have had great luck finding Factory Service Manuals on E-Bay. I have purchased several full sets in great condition for as low as $45.00 for my daughter's 2004 Dodge Stratus. I have the CD/DVD Factory Service Manuals for my Jeep. It is nice to have the paper books, but with the searchable electronic version finding what you need is faster. Then you can print only the secitions or pages you need for each repair job. All of my paper manuals eventually got dirty & stained because I almost always need to refer to it while doing the work.
 
Good luck with all those CRDs.

#10973 of 11441 Re: james92 [james191] by unclebob9

Aug 19, 2010 (1:57 pm)

Replying to: james191 (Aug 19, 2010 7:06 am)
There is a CD version on EBAY now for about $12 and a 3 manual set for $199 (or so). Amazon.com has the same set for $179 (there-abouts).
With 4 jeeps, I would go for the $179 set If I had 4 of them. I am most likely going for the CD for now but I will eventuallly break down and spent the big bucks.
I jsut bought my CRD.
Take some time and read the positings here, there are several little upgrades that increase power, MPG and extend service times.
Best of luck: Bob

#10974 of 11441 Re: james92 [james191] by mrmag00

Aug 19, 2010 (7:19 pm)

Replying to: james191 (Aug 19, 2010 7:06 am)
James:
 
Here is the link for the 2006 service manual:
http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2006-KJ-SM.pdf
 
There most everything you will need in there.......
Be patient it takes awhile for it to load..... 140M....
 
Have a hunt around their site you may find more....

#10975 of 11441 Re: james92 [mrmag00] by unclebob9

Aug 20, 2010 (3:44 pm)

Replying to: mrmag00 (Aug 19, 2010 7:19 pm)
Thanks James, it is a GREAT thing to have, and hard to beat the price!
I played with it for about an hour, While I still prefer the hard copy, for the $200 price difference, I will ry really hard learn to use this one.
I fly back to pick up my 2006 crd next Thursday. It's in O'Dessa, Tx. which is 1500 miles from me. I have never driven a CRD before, so we will get aquainted very fast!
Thanks again: Bob

#10976 of 11441 Re: Weird issue - No power [drudgery] by mooncrd

Aug 20, 2010 (9:35 pm)

Replying to: drudgery (Jan 20, 2009 2:08 pm)
2005 crd 133000 miles straight pipe mass air flow sensor not hooked up more power never smokes 28 mpg bought new great jeep round trip to work 144 miles

#10977 of 11441 Re: CRD [thstranger] by unclebob9

Aug 21, 2010 (8:05 am)

Replying to: thstranger (Aug 11, 2010 9:50 pm)
Just smear a little on the metal part of the connector (or spade) before plugging it together.

#10978 of 11441 Re: Electrical Problem, it seems [joshbrown7] by unclebob9

Aug 21, 2010 (8:47 am)

Replying to: joshbrown7 (May 15, 2010 11:46 am)
I used to have this problem with my 66 GTO and now with my 2000 Cherokee. What it was and is for both vehicles is a bad connection at the firewall where the electronics plug in to each other at the firewall. I wiggle the wire a little and all is fine until the next time.
Just something to try

#10979 of 11441 Oil Light on at low RPM by lipps

Aug 24, 2010 (4:27 am)

Good Morning:
I have a 2005 Liberty CRD with 120k miles. Last evening, while at a stoplight the oil light came on. When the engine rpm was increased to about 1200 the light went off. When I got home I changed the oil even though it only had 3700 miles. It was 100 degrees here in Houston, don’t know if that has anything to do with it.
Any thoughts?

#10980 of 11441 Re: Oil Light on at low RPM [lipps] by unclebob9

Aug 24, 2010 (8:19 am)

Replying to: lipps (Aug 24, 2010 4:27 am)
Are you using the recommended oil and filter? Did you change the filter as well?
If so, I would check the sending unit for connection and cleanliness. and possibly replace it. Thr hotter it gets the thicker the oil gets. But 100 in Houston is not unusual.
Is the temp reading in the normal range when this happens?
Bob

#10981 of 11441 CCV Issue and solution by winter2

Aug 24, 2010 (9:54 am)

As most of us know, the CCV (looks like a hockey puck) sits on the valve cover at the back of the engine. I recently had visited my local dealer and spoke to the diesel tech about some oil leakage from the CCV.
 
The tech suggested that the CCV had some deposits in it and that this was causing the problem. Instead of replacing it, I learned that the CCV can be cleaned with a mild solvent like Castle Solv or brake cleaner. I did the cleaning on Sunday and there was some sludge or goo inside that the solvent removed. Once I reassembled everything I used a little Indian Head Shellac (gasket cement) on the hose that comes off the CCV to make sure there is no leakage.
 
I have driven the CRD since then and I have noticed a couple of things. First the up and down idle in the morning is now gone and idle is actually smoother all around. Second, the turbo spools up faster and with more punch even under light acceleration and with the windows down you hear the turbo happily whistling away when you demand any kind of boost/power.
 
When you pull the CCV, do it on a cold engine. You will need an 8mm socket and a flexible joint or a short extension to remove the rear bolt. There are three bolts that hold the CCV in place. When you remove the CCV, pull it out gently and be sure you retain the two O-ring gaskets. Clean the O-rings gently (no solvent), coat them with a high temperature grease and put them aside for now. Spray solvent into all of the openings of the CCV and swish it around to get rid of whatever sludge or goo you have in the CCV. Repeat until the solvent comes out clean. Put the CCV aside and let it dry. Do not try to open it or disassemble it ( the tech warned me about this). Once dry, put some of the same grease on the tubes that plug into the valve cover. On the valve cover, clean the two openings with a bit of solvent on a rag to clean the seats where the O-rings sit. Put some of the same grease in the grooves where the O-rings reside and then put the O-rings in making sure they are firmly seated in the grooves. Gently place the CCV on the openings and push firmly to seat it. Secure it with the three bolts and reattach the hose. Took me all of twenty minutes to do.

Messages Page 1099 of 1145

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