Last post on Nov 06, 2013 at 5:32 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel
What is this discussion about?
Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV
#10899 of 11454 Re: crd [lightnin3]
May 28, 2010 (4:45 pm)
I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel w/ about 160,000 miles. In town, the mileage sucks -- I guess because of all of the hills and stop and go traffic. Highway mileage is about 26 mph 70mph w/ the cruise set. I hear of these folks getting 30 mpg. I am thankful for you sharing your tips w/ the group.
I have noticed w/ bio-diesel, the engine seems to run smoother and I get a bit better mileage.
#10900 of 11454 Re: crd [warren9]
May 31, 2010 (8:37 am)
Replacing the timing belt was a 3 hour job at the dealer. I would love to know what the special tools are and why once 3 diesel mechanics at dealerships in California (vehicle is illegal when new here too) looked into the job and refused to attempt.
Seems its something about locking the dual cams in place.
If I had been able to inspect the belt before removing it, I would have never replaced it even at 127,000 miles. It still hangs in my garage and looks brand new. I cost so much to replace, I have to pretend it's a work of art. I may even light it up at night.
#10901 of 11454 Timing belt removal
May 31, 2010 (9:28 am)
STANDARD PROCEDURE - LOCKING ENGINE 90 DEGREES AFTER TDC
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
NOTE: Rotate the engine by the front crankshaft bolt until the line next to the bolt in the front crankshaft
hub reaches 12 oclock. Rotate the engine another 1/4 turn to the right, or the three oclock position. This will
assist approximating the location of 90 degrees ATDC.
2. Rotate engine by hand until special tool VM 1080 can be install through the engine access hole, locking the flex
plate and preventing crankshaft movement. This locks the engine at 90° after TDC.
3. Remove engine cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
COVER - REMOVAL).
4. Remove EGR valve and EGR cooler to exhaust
manifold retaining nuts.
5. Reposition EGR valve assembly out of way.
6. Remove plug in cylinder head cover/intake
May 31, 2010 (11:36 am)
I think this special tool is nothing more than a glorified piece of drill rod. If I can't convince my Chrysler guys to change the belt before my extended warranty runs out I'll change it myself using drill bits. If this happens I'll let every one know. I am going to have the computer reflashed just in case they screwed up the first time. My mileage still sucks.
#10903 of 11454 Re: crd [warren9]
Jun 02, 2010 (6:27 pm)
The only time I got mileage that low was very cold weather and lots of deep snow to push around. I change oil around 6000 mi.
Does your temp gauge come up to just below 1/2? Mine had a bad thermostat for the last few years, mileage is up 1-2 mpg.
Have you changed the fuel filter recently?
Have you cleaned the boost pressure/intake air temp sensor?
How is the power-can you lay rubber once the turbo winds up?
Have you run any injector cleaner through it?
You should get in the low to mid 20's unless you really rod it.
Jun 03, 2010 (2:14 am)
Temp gauge just below 1/2. Once warmed you can snap your head on hard acceleration. Fuel filter changed every 15,000 miles. Biggest problem is around town driving. RPM,s to high between 45 and 50. Highway is 22mpg. I'm going to have the Chrysler folks run the F37 program through again and see what happens.
Jun 09, 2010 (4:25 am)
Hi jek443 ,
Your lucky to have bio diesel , It isn't here in Canada yet.
You'll find that the oil stays cleaner longer as well
If you have a summer set of low rolling resistance tires , using those over a set of mudders will help your mileage .mudders usually suck about 2 mpg . they are sticky , and have it's uses , but so is having a summer set of tires for just going to the store as well. but I would only use them for dry pavement .
Driving 70 mph you'll find you won't get better than 26 mpg . This is because of your RPM's are over 2000.and your winding up that turbo.drive 55mph and save 20%. and keep those RPMs down. the trick is to not be in a hurry .
Let the low end Rpms and torque from the engine do the work.
also if in a hilly region , your constantly using the fuel pedal to compensate. this will definitely hurt your over all mileage but it is still be better than a truck.
#10906 of 11454 Re: crd [lightnin3]
Jun 09, 2010 (4:31 pm)
Actually, the best results are w/ 95% petroleum diesel w/ 5% bio-diesel gives the best of both worlds.
#10907 of 11454 Timing belt & water pump.
Jun 13, 2010 (7:48 pm)
Traded my 01 Durango w/4.7L & 15-18 MPG for a CRD on Feb 15, 2005. EGR was replaced 19k, F37 24k. F37 enabled me and everyone else who drove it to start from a stop without chirping the tires [yeah, the stock GY Wranglers were bad]. MPGs dropped a little and it was a bit slower, but still plenty responsive. Did the elephant hose, added a boost gauge, use Rotella 5-40 syn. MPG has been 22 city, 29.5 hwy, all around 26. I add cetane boost/ inj cleaner & 2-3 oz of 2 cycle oil each fill. At 70k it has been reliable and fun to drive. No more EGR problems. I plan to keep it has long has I can drive. With that in mind, I checked into timing belt & water pump availablity. NAPA has the belt, water pump, tensioner, and pulley has a kit for around $250. I bought it, but won't install it myself until 120k+. I replaced the little air filter under the vaccuum control soleniod for the turbo recently & noticed alittle stronger & quicker response. Also have installed a FOMOTO valve for clean & easy oil changes. I flat tow the liberty behind my motorhome [we are full time RVers] with a Road Master Even Brake system in the Jeep so the brakes have approx. 95k. I'm thinking of doing a brake job soon. Still have matterial on the pads thu. I think that some of the problems are built in, some caused by lack of understanding & training on diesels by dealers & the American public at large, and by a high performance diesel that is easy to hotrod that doesn't have the power train behind it to match. I also think you need to learn how to do the basic maint. yourself or find a good diesel mechanic you can trust. Been reading this forum since the start. Very enlighting.
#10908 of 11454 loss of power
Jun 15, 2010 (1:18 pm)
I have a CRD with 50,000miles. It has been running like a dream until yesterday. I was on a long trip when the engine light came on and it felt like it had about 1/2 the power from normal. I stopped and let the car idle for a while, turned it off and disconnected the wiring the the air cleaner thinking it might control the egr valve and it came back to life. It did two more times in the next two hours. Engine light stays on but runs allright. Any ideal what this is? I took it by the local dealer and he hooked up the computer and said it was an evap (vacuum) leak and also a com pos sensor. Has anyone replaced the sensor themselves and can you tell me where it is located. Thanks