Last post on Nov 06, 2013 at 5:32 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel
What is this discussion about?
Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV
#10794 of 11454 Re: glow plug problem [oscarfree1]
Feb 24, 2010 (7:17 am)
Sorry to hear you have had so many repeat problems. It seem that the dealorships don't know what to tell you or how to prevent these incidents. If you really like your CRD I would suggest you buy a $150 analyzer and cable to read the ECU codes yourself. It cost almost $100 per read at the dealorship.
To start, why so many EGR valves! Carbon from exhaust gas recirculation builds up on the valve and makes it stick in the wrong position. This doubles the problem because the valve then lets in too much exhaust gas and you make more carbon buildup. Some mechanics say it is your oil being sucked into the combustion chamber but in reality unless you are using excessive oil it is not the problem. The problem is the EGR valve itself. It is a piece of crap designed for the idiots that live in the Los Angles Basin. It reduces NO2 emissions but increases Carbon deposits and uses more fuel. This seem to be acceptable by Californicators but ruins reliability of great cars. Californicators do not seem to be able to adjust their driving problems by regulating themselves but need to stand on the backs of everyone else to breath air.... AAhmm, just cleared my own EGR valve.
So how do you fix this problem (not for CA. consumption)? Disable the EGR system! This can be done in two ways:
1. Unplug the MAF sensor on your air cleaner.
Costs $0. It will however set the amber check engine light "ON" in the upper right quadrant of the instrument panel. You need to have a "Code Reader" to check you ECU codes occasionally for real problems that may be stored there. Remember using this method causes the "Check Engine" light to remain on.
2. Buy a simulated EGR circuit device and put it on your engine. Cost $250-350 one time charge. This device removes the EGR valve from the electronics that would control its opening and closing and tricks the ECU with realtime engine responses just as if an EGR valve was connected. No warning lights! The real EGR valve remains in the neutral position allowing clean boost air to flow to the engine and happy exhaust to leave no excess carbon anywhere. Where can you get one! JUST search the INTERNET for SEGR and you will find assistance.
Now to address the GlowPlugs. Problem is Carbon again! Glow plugs tightened up against the carbon are bent slightly and when heated and cooled repeatedly under normal use fail early.
When a new glowplug is needed, the hole where it screws in to the combustion chamber needs to be cleaned of carbon. After the old glowpug is removed, the mechanic rotates the engine with either a flywheel wrench or a pulley strap wrench until the exhaust valves for the cylinder in question are open. The mechanic can us a .17 or .22 caliber nylon rifle bore cleaning brush and (believe it) Hoppe #9 bore cleaner to disolve the carbon. Wet the bore hole Hoppes solvent on the brush several times and let set for 30 minutes. Then scrub with more solvent on the brush. Final step is to blow the hole dry with air which will exhust through the valves. Carbon flakes are to small to damage anything in the cylinder. Now a new glowplug can be inserted safely.
I have a 2005 Liberty CRD 128K miles, 1 EGR valve, 1 glow plug, 1 SEGR box.
31 miles per gallon highway, 28 City. 5W40 Winter oil, 10W40 Summer oil. Service interval 3500 miles (regular oil) 6500 miles (synthetic oil) Tire pressure as rated on tire wall, not over inflated or under inflated.
#10795 of 11454 Re: error code p1250 [jeepon]
Mar 02, 2010 (5:21 am)
I too got a similar error code (P1252) indicating "Vacuum Reservoir Control Circuit High - Shorted To Battery - Tested and Needs SOP Vacuum Res. Solenoid (4606226AC) ". My Liberty has 69 K miles on it. The local dealer says that the part and repair is not covered under my 7/70 warrantee. They have ordered the part, a vacuum Reservoir Control Valve ( approx. $44) plus labor (probably another $124).
Does anyone have any insight on this problem?
#10796 of 11454 Re: ESP [winter2]
Mar 04, 2010 (6:15 pm)
I have had the ABS light come on when I don't engage the 4WD and spin the rear wheels. With the light on the odometer doesn't work. Found that shutting it down for ~30 sec will clear issue. Very strange programming.
I really don't have an issue with the function of the ABS, it just takes some getting used to. Mine has been in the shop for 2.5 weeks due to a leaking water pump and some other leaks, takes time to order parts. I got 171000 mi out of timing and fan belts. The Dakota I am driving now does not have the same ABS and I just have to adjust my driving style on the icy roads.
#10797 of 11454 Re: glow plug problem [oscarfree1]
Mar 04, 2010 (6:25 pm)
Check the earlier posts, I described a way to disable the EGR with no MIL for a few $ if you have some technical know-how.
#10798 of 11454 Re: ESP [mdamick]
Mar 05, 2010 (8:42 am)
I have left multiple strips of rubber on the road with my CRD and have never had the ABS light come on in 2WD. It did come on once in 4WD but that is when I was trying to climb a slippery embankment.
#10799 of 11454 Re: ESP [winter2]
Mar 05, 2010 (12:14 pm)
We had the ABS light coming on on ours, took it in and it turned out that both front ABS sensors were bad. After they replaced them, we haven't had any problem with them since.
#10800 of 11454 CP3 pump care
Mar 05, 2010 (3:54 pm)
I contacted Bosch about the CP3 pump. They directed me to a couple of authorized Bosch injection shops.
Here is what I learned.
1.Change the fuel filter every 5000 to 10000 miles. Use the factory filter. Apparently the NAPA/Wix replacements do not filter well enough. One of the shops suggested adding a second fuel filter, but neither advocated replacing the stock unit with something like a Racor.
2. Regularly use fuel additive(s) that lubricate the pump, disperse water and improve the cetane. Stanadyne, Redline, Amsoil were mentioned by both shops. The use of Marvel Mystery oil was not recommended by either shop nor was the use of kerosene, even in small amounts.
3. Biodiesel was also on the list of things not to use on a regular basis, even B5. The quality or lack there of is the issue. They both seen increased amounts of algae/fungus in the blend versus straight diesel.
4. With good care, a CP3 pump generally lasts about 200K miles, the injectors about 150K.
5. EGR issues. The "nose blowing" that Caribou advocates is a good thing to do. That helps clear out accumulated soot.
6. If anyone decides to purchase a diesel in the future, it will more than likely have a DPF. You cannot and should not perform the aforementioned "nose blowing". It messes up the DPF.
#10801 of 11454 Re: CP3 pump care [winter2]
Mar 06, 2010 (10:53 am)
The Bosch injection shop technician seems quite conservative
1. We change fuel filters every 25,000 miles and my truck came with a Racor filter assembly.
2. We are told not to use additives and our winterized fuel was mixed with up to 20% kerosene in volume.
3. Biodiesel is out, the "mixture" is now made with liquefied natural gas.
4. 200K miles for the pump but the pressure regulator should give less.
5. Renault "road angels" published this trick first. They also issued a technical note explaining how to clean their EGR valves.
6. I'm not sure I will ever buy another diesel. I've driven many in 40 years and what we are proposed today is no longer made in the spirit of simplicity.
#10802 of 11454 Re: CP3 pump care [caribou1]
Mar 06, 2010 (1:03 pm)
The need to be conservative on this side of the pond is quite legitimate.
1. The quality of diesel fuel in the United States stinks. It is poor at best. It is still viewed as an industrial fuel for motor transport. Even Daimler mechanics have told me that the Daimler diesels run better on the EU diesel than on domestic diesel. In Europe, the minimum required cetane is 51 or 52. Here in the U.S. it is 40 or better and with the advent of ULSD, it is 43 or 44. When I add lots of cetane improver, then my Jeep runs better, quieter and more smoothly plus fuel economy increases.
2. Diesel fuel in this country is fairly dirty so I can understand the need for frequent filter changes.
I am sorry to read that you are skeptical about buying another diesel. In some respects, the injection systems have become simpler and more reliable. I drove a diesel with a mechanical pump injection system (Bosch licensed) in the early 1980's. It failed at 140K miles and did so in dramatic fashion.
Will I buy another diesel, probably.
You stated you have a Racor filter system on your Jeep. Do you have a part number or model number you can share with me?