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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Diesel
10711 messages, Last post on Dec 08, 2009 at 11:52 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: axelf66 (Oct 09, 2009 1:54 pm) Is the passage from the engine to the EGR clogged? What about the little filter that is on the passenger side of the engine that helps with or has something to do with the VGT control? Have you ever replaced that? Could the CAC be full of trash? Have you checked the boost sensor in spite of cleaning it to make sure it is sending back the correct information? The CCV device, is it clogged or not working? Is the engine controller software up to date? As to additives, I like the stuff from RedLine and also from LiquiMoly. LiquiMoly has an item called Diesel Purge (Diesel-Spülung) which is suppose to clean out the combustion chamber and other items.
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Replying to: winter2 (Oct 09, 2009 5:27 pm) I would expect when the dealer checked the system they updated the codes but I will check it. I will have to ask however I take my Liberty to a dealer who is no longer affliated with Chrysler. Be that as it may when this problem kept recurring my dealer took it to a local Jeep dealer because we thought we had a bad EGR which should have not failed. Although I don't know what they did they did not replace the EGR but said it was coked up. Where do I get the Diesel Purge. I think I can get Red Line from the truck stop.
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Replying to: axelf66 (Oct 10, 2009 4:12 am) CAC: another name for the intercooler CCV: if you remove the shroud from the engine, you will find a round black plastic device sitting in the valve cover with a a hose attached to it. As I understand it, this device has something to do with removing blowby gases from the crankcase. To obtain Redline additives, go to their website and look up the nearest reseller by zip code. For the Diesel Purge, go to the LuqiMolly website and contact the North American representative. I was fortunate to find their products at a local NAPA store. As to being "coked" up or "carboned" up, the tech at my dealer has told me what to do the keep the carbon levels down in the engine and that includes regular "nose blowing". Unfortunately, domestic diesel fuel sucks and is of very poor quality except for the stuff you find in California. The addition of cetane improvers is helpful in reducing smoke/carbon formation.
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Replying to: axelf66 (Oct 09, 2009 1:54 pm) Where are you with your diagnostic now? The first thing I would do about a boost pressure error is to provocate it. Check the movement of the vanes of your turbo and make sure there is no pneumatic or mechanical issue with the mechanism that moves these vanes. The little plastic filter located behind the air filter box could play a trick on you  Are the vanes kept away from the rotor by default? I don't have this type of turbo so I can't tell what happens if the control solenoid valve does not distribute vacuum or if there is no vacuum available to move the vanes. The boost pressure sensor could be checked by measuring the output voltage variation when you move the vanes manually (by jumping the control solenoid valve) at a steady engine speed ~1500rpm. There isn't much risk when the engine isn't under load. You will also feel the intake air hose get stiffer as you do this test. Do you feel a loss of power when you get the error code on the console? What type of oil do you use? I only had a dirty boost sensor once when I used semi synthetic 15w40 Rotella. Last thing that comes to my mind: open, observe and re insert your connectors. I cleaned the engine compartment with lots of water this summer and now I'm getting better mileage 
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Replying to: winter2 (Oct 10, 2009 9:07 am) Thanks for the info on Redline and Lugimolly. I will try their websites.
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Replying to: caribou1 (Oct 10, 2009 11:50 am) I use 0W40 Mobil Synthetic as called for by the engine manufacturer. I was told when I bouught the unit it was the only oil I could use and not void the engine warranty. That said my dealer allows me to purchase the oil and filter and then he changes it. It's done every 3000 miles religiously. I will check and reinsert the connectors as you indicate.
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Replying to: winter2 (Oct 10, 2009 9:07 am)
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Replying to: axelf66 (Oct 10, 2009 2:22 pm) |
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Replying to: axelf66 (Oct 10, 2009 12:43 pm) |
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Replying to: axelf66 (Oct 10, 2009 2:22 pm) I have not used the Diesel Purge only the Super Diesel Additiv. It has proven itself very effective. I have had less soot on the boost pressure sensor, less knocking and much easier starting in cold/cool weather. Also, there has been less smoke from the tailpipe too. One other question has come to mind. Is the catalytic converter clogged, even partially?
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