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Jeep Liberty Diesel

10709 messages,  Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 7:59 PM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV


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#10358 of 10709
Re: Not Starting [dataman] by siberia
Mar 15, 2009 (4:56 am)
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Replying to: dataman (Mar 13, 2009 9:54 pm)

You did the right thing. I really believe that no one should own a diesel Liberty whom is not their own mechanic and cannot deal with the diesel (and Liberty) issues and is not willing to make the expenditures needed to correct for the D-student factory engineering problems.
 
Who puts a heating element at the highest point in the fuel system where air is most likely to be, allowing the element to over heat? A lift pump in or near the fuel tank takes appears to care of this problem by guaranteeing fuel at the heating element.
 
Who puts tension ball joints on one of the strongest bodied 4-wheel drive vehicles out there that is likely to see rough service? It's like putting your grandmother's knees on an Olympic weight lifter. The problem can be solved by installing Moog "Problem Solver" ball joints but you still need regular inspections to be sure.
 
EGR valve is another fun topic. Let's make something that is likely to have problems and put it where it's almost easier to pull the engine than remove the EGR valve to clean it. Try this: when you get the code for EGR failure, run you engine in 3rd gear lockup at 55 mph for 3 or 4 miles to self-cleaning-oven bake the EGR valve in the full open position then floor it for a few seconds to fully close the valve. Clear the codes and maybe they will not come back for 8 or 10k miles, if you do this once a week or so maybe they won't come back at all. Works for me.
 
Torque converter, that topic has already been rubber-hosed......
#10359 of 10709
Re: Not Starting [dataman] by nicku812
Mar 15, 2009 (8:12 am)
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Replying to: dataman (Mar 13, 2009 9:54 pm)

I talked to my dealer who stated that when you change the fuel filter that you should also change the O-rings in the houseing. For some reason (poor design) the O-rings get damaged when you change the filter and this gets damage from people not knowing how to do it including other dealers. Of course you only can get the O-rings when you buy the entire housing. But that corrected my problem. I just put a new EGR valve (my first) about 2 months ago. Thank god it was still under warranty. But the fuel system gets air in it from the O-rings leaking that you have to prime it with the filter/water seperator. CRAZY... If anyone has this problem change the filter housing and including the O-rings
#10360 of 10709
johnhayworth by johnhayworth
Mar 15, 2009 (9:20 am)
Reply
WIX makes a fuel filter that fits the 2005 Liberty CRD at 1/2 price to dealer replacement. There are also in line filters in clear plastic body containers to put into your fuel line. Foe around $60.00 you can add a fuel line pump before the fuel filter. My CRD runs well with fuel problems. jdh;-) .
#10361 of 10709
Re: Not Starting [dataman] by nescosmo
Mar 15, 2009 (4:30 pm)
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Replying to: dataman (Mar 13, 2009 9:54 pm)

I have not been in this forum for a wail and I can see that all of you still have the same old problem.
With all the forum arround I can not believe that you all have this issues.
With about $3,500 you can resolve all of this issues and be a happy motoring.
EGR---SEGR
Fuel filter---Ranco
Cac---Samco
Tranny--- Suncoast
Fluid pump----New Pump
Air in fuel----fuel pump
No power---Inmotion
and so on. All of this is a thing of the Past; My friend CRD have 155k and all this work he did it at about 20k and ever since he has no problem and my ether. So get in to the ball.
#10362 of 10709
Re: Not Starting [nicku812] by winter2
Mar 15, 2009 (6:36 pm)
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Replying to: nicku812 (Mar 15, 2009 8:12 am)

So far I have changed my fuel filter three times on my own. I have no fuel leakage nor do I get air in the injection system and I still have the original mounting plus factory O-rings (2005 CRD). A little cleaning of the O-rings with a lint free cloth followed by a light application of clean diesel fuel or clean engine oil keeps the O-rings happy and healthy. Most importantly, do not over tighten the fuel filter, otherwise you will damage the O-rings you speak of.
 
As to the EGR valve, I had the original one replaced at 14K miles. Now have 48K on the Jeep and no heartburn from the replacement. But I do beat on the engine at least once daily (when thoroughly warm) as Caribou has suggested in the past.
 
Have done the torque converter recall and have replaced one since then. I do not tow! If the TC fails again, then I will put in something better (Suncoast or other) plus the Transgo transkit and that will be the end of that.
#10363 of 10709
Re: Not Starting [winter2] by caribou1
Mar 16, 2009 (2:14 am)
Reply

Replying to: winter2 (Mar 15, 2009 6:36 pm)

Hi winter2,
There is something I don't clearly understand:
 
 Some folks find air bubbles in the fuel filter housing
 
- When I turn the engine OFF, I can still hear the sound of my (electrical) fuel priming pump for about one second after the engine died. This means the filter is pressurized at this point.
 
- I tend to start the engine 'a bit later', never immediately after the glow plug indicator turns off. I don't know at which moment the fuel priming pump is turned ON, but any delay at this point could cause air bubbles to get trapped by cavitation created by the fuel injection pump .
 
What do you think?
#10364 of 10709
Re: Not Starting [caribou1] by siberia
Mar 16, 2009 (3:36 am)
Reply

Replying to: caribou1 (Mar 16, 2009 2:14 am)

The so called lift pump on our CRDs is in the common rail pump after the filter assy. We do not have the lift pump that you mention. There is wiring back at the tank for a lift pump but it was never installed. If there is an air leak and a lift pump is installed the air leak turns into a fuel leak and it becomes easy to find.
 
Like Winter2 I have had no problems. After a fuel filter change and priming I can never take an additional pump on the primer because it is solid no matter how long the vehicle sits without running. Anyone who can pump their primer on a daily basis has an air leak somewhere.
#10365 of 10709
Re: Not Starting [winter2] by siberia
Mar 16, 2009 (3:47 am)
Reply

Replying to: winter2 (Mar 15, 2009 6:36 pm)

But I do beat on the engine at least once daily (when thoroughly warm) as Caribou has suggested in the past.
 
As a clarification for anyone reading this, you do not need to run you engine wide open through the gears to do this. You can do every thing that the EGR valve and the turbo need in 3rd gear lockup saving the transmission and the torque converter.
#10366 of 10709
Re: Not Starting [siberia] by caribou1
Mar 16, 2009 (7:44 am)
Reply

Replying to: siberia (Mar 16, 2009 3:36 am)

Hi siberia,
Have you heard the little 'humm' coming from underneath the vehicle just after stopping the engine?
#10367 of 10709
Re: Not Starting [caribou1] by siberia
Mar 16, 2009 (5:44 pm)
Reply

Replying to: caribou1 (Mar 16, 2009 7:44 am)

Yes. What I hear is the motor in the EGR air flow control valve between the CAC hose and the intake manifold. It runs for a while and claps to a stop after the key is turned off. There is also a tiny dc reversible motor in the blend-door actuator that runs audibly when the key is turned on.

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