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Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel
Jeep Liberty Diesel

10669 messages, Last post on Nov 09, 2009 at 1:18 PM
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Anyone in here remove this little bugger? Has anyone bypassed it altogether? I can't find the post, but someone mentioned they disconnected it and bypassed it so the "check engine light" doesn't stay on. My EGR Control valve went and the truck has been running like a top. Fuel mileage is great. No stalling, stuttering, shuddering or smoking. It turns out they want me to bring it in and get it replaced under warrenty. Not happening until someone really explains why... other then inspection.
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Replying to: nescosmo (Nov 01, 2008 10:14 pm) |
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Replying to: jimhemi (Feb 11, 2009 12:33 pm) I did not reconnect my EGR since 2004 and I accidentally took the truck for inspection It turned out that it produces less opaque smoke than expected and the CO2 value was on the low side. I'm not complaining, but I know I'm walking on eggs My winter mileage around the city is stable at 18.5 mpg since 3 months. I've used only Shell diesel fuel, the standard one (black label) and permanent 4WD . The V-Power diesel, more expensive, gives me less mileage. I'm also making this test to evaluate tire wear: I have new BFG T/As with 5,000 miles and no visible difference between front and rear. The depth gage will be the judge. |
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Replying to: caribou1 (Feb 12, 2009 2:30 am)
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Replying to: jimhemi (Feb 12, 2009 6:02 am)
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Replying to: caribou1 (Feb 12, 2009 11:43 am) |
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I had the problem with the Liberty not starting. I used the primer pump on the fuel filter until noticing a leak in the fuel filter body. I was told the part I needed would take 45 days to come in, so I ended up having the filter body replaced for $200. I love the diesel but after 3EGR valves, fuel housing, torque converter and possible rear end problems (all under 40K miles) I called it quits. Too bad, I really liked the little diesel, it towed like a champ.
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Replying to: dataman (Mar 13, 2009 9:54 pm) Who puts a heating element at the highest point in the fuel system where air is most likely to be, allowing the element to over heat? A lift pump in or near the fuel tank takes appears to care of this problem by guaranteeing fuel at the heating element. Who puts tension ball joints on one of the strongest bodied 4-wheel drive vehicles out there that is likely to see rough service? It's like putting your grandmother's knees on an Olympic weight lifter. The problem can be solved by installing Moog "Problem Solver" ball joints but you still need regular inspections to be sure. EGR valve is another fun topic. Let's make something that is likely to have problems and put it where it's almost easier to pull the engine than remove the EGR valve to clean it. Try this: when you get the code for EGR failure, run you engine in 3rd gear lockup at 55 mph for 3 or 4 miles to self-cleaning-oven bake the EGR valve in the full open position then floor it for a few seconds to fully close the valve. Clear the codes and maybe they will not come back for 8 or 10k miles, if you do this once a week or so maybe they won't come back at all. Works for me. Torque converter, that topic has already been rubber-hosed...... |
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Replying to: dataman (Mar 13, 2009 9:54 pm)
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WIX makes a fuel filter that fits the 2005 Liberty CRD at 1/2 price to dealer replacement. There are also in line filters in clear plastic body containers to put into your fuel line. Foe around $60.00 you can add a fuel line pump before the fuel filter. My CRD runs well with fuel problems. jdh;-) . |
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