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Jeep Liberty Diesel

10697 messages,  Last post on Nov 27, 2009 at 12:02 PM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV


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#10348 of 10697
Re: Failure to Start Hot [kntrygurl] by caribou1
Jan 25, 2009 (9:02 am)
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Replying to: kntrygurl (Jan 22, 2009 2:56 pm)

Kntrygurl,
I observed that I have to wait 4 compression cycles before my engine starts at the beginning of the 5th compression, may it be winter or summer
Even when I restart the engine when it's still hot, it will only start when the 4th compression is accomplished; this may take time but allows the cylinders to empty unburned fuel and assure better compression (in theory).
#10349 of 10697
Re: Weird issue - No power [drudgery] by nicku812
Jan 25, 2009 (8:26 pm)
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Replying to: drudgery (Jan 20, 2009 11:56 am)

Having my CRD doing simular with the power I think everyone should check for fuel leak by the fuel filter housing. When there is a leak it allows air into the system and then it takes several times to start. It dont always throw a code out. But 2 months ago I had to replace the fuel filter and then, had a code for the EGR valve and then two days later this came up. It seems it was throwing codes except fuel leak. I could not go over 35 and sometimes it would kill on the highway. Finally I took it to a good dealership and got it diagnoised, After fixing the problem with the fuel filer housing it runs like new.
#10350 of 10697
Re: 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel [CRD_Bullydog] by winter2
Jan 31, 2009 (2:24 pm)
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Replying to: CRD_Bullydog (Jan 23, 2009 12:46 pm)

I have a 2005 CRD, purchased new with over 46K miles on it. Early on in the forum, Caribou mentioned cleaning the MAP sensor. The diesel tech at the dealer I go to mentioned cleaning the MAP sensor along with each oil change which I do every 5000 to 5500 miles.
 
As to adding gasoline to the fuel, I would be really careful here. You would probably be better off adding an anti-gel additive or some 1-K kerosene. I use the latter. Gasoline could reduce the lubricity of the fuel enough where you might get CP3 pump damage or worse, failure. The CP3 pump is the high pressure pump used to pressurize the common rail on the CRD and is not cheap to replace.
 
As to fuel additives, I stick to products from either RedLine oil or Amsoil.
#10351 of 10697
EGR... by jimhemi
Feb 11, 2009 (12:33 pm)
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Anyone in here remove this little bugger? Has anyone bypassed it altogether? I can't find the post, but someone mentioned they disconnected it and bypassed it so the "check engine light" doesn't stay on.
My EGR Control valve went and the truck has been running like a top. Fuel mileage is great. No stalling, stuttering, shuddering or smoking. It turns out they want me to bring it in and get it replaced under warrenty. Not happening until someone really explains why... other then inspection.
#10352 of 10697
Re: Check Engine Light [nescosmo] by jimhemi
Feb 11, 2009 (12:50 pm)
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Replying to: nescosmo (Nov 01, 2008 10:14 pm)

Where have you been buddy?
#10353 of 10697
Re: EGR... [jimhemi] by caribou1
Feb 12, 2009 (2:30 am)
Reply

Replying to: jimhemi (Feb 11, 2009 12:33 pm)

I think you ought to have the EGR repaired now because it seems parts may be difficult to get later on. You disconnect the new system until time for next inspection comes.
 
I did not reconnect my EGR since 2004 and I accidentally took the truck for inspection
It turned out that it produces less opaque smoke than expected and the CO2 value was on the low side. I'm not complaining, but I know I'm walking on eggs
 
My winter mileage around the city is stable at 18.5 mpg since 3 months. I've used only Shell diesel fuel, the standard one (black label) and permanent 4WD . The V-Power diesel, more expensive, gives me less mileage.
I'm also making this test to evaluate tire wear: I have new BFG T/As with 5,000 miles and no visible difference between front and rear. The depth gage will be the judge.
#10354 of 10697
Re: EGR... [caribou1] by jimhemi
Feb 12, 2009 (6:02 am)
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Replying to: caribou1 (Feb 12, 2009 2:30 am)

Yeah, I would like for them to replace the EGR as it would make sense to do both at the same time. The techs will not however change it unless it's bad. If there is no "code" then they will not change it. It's just so frustrating when the bean counters are telling the dealerships to only work on stuff that's truly bad. Why pay for more warrenty work.
#10355 of 10697
Re: EGR... [jimhemi] by caribou1
Feb 12, 2009 (11:43 am)
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Replying to: jimhemi (Feb 12, 2009 6:02 am)

Could you take your EGR system apart and simply clean it? The problem seems to be time, right?
#10356 of 10697
Re: EGR... [caribou1] by jimhemi
Feb 12, 2009 (12:49 pm)
Reply

Replying to: caribou1 (Feb 12, 2009 11:43 am)

I'm not a mechanic, nor do I pretend to be. I have never even taken the plastic cover off of the engine. I have changed the oil and air filters as that's easy stuff.
#10357 of 10697
Not Starting by dataman
Mar 13, 2009 (9:54 pm)
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I had the problem with the Liberty not starting. I used the primer pump on the fuel filter until noticing a leak in the fuel filter body. I was told the part I needed would take 45 days to come in, so I ended up having the filter body replaced for $200.
I love the diesel but after 3EGR valves, fuel housing, torque converter and possible rear end problems (all under 40K miles) I called it quits. Too bad, I really liked the little diesel, it towed like a champ.

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